STORY LOOP FURRY PORN GAMES C SERVICES [?] [R] RND POPULAR | Archived flashes: 229595 |
/disc/ · /res/ — /show/ · /fap/ · /gg/ · /swf/ | P0001 · P2595 · P5190 |
A Very Merry Christmas! |
This is the info page for Flash #61430 |
<P ALIGN="LEFT"><FONT FACE="_sans" SIZE="12" COLOR="#000000"> </FONT></P> |
See My Profile |
The Anarchists Cookbook - Flash V2 |
Index to the Anarchists Cookbook Section I: Your Constitutional Rights ( At Least In America ) 01: Your Legal Rights (For adults, or some of us think we are) 02: Juvenile Offenders' Rights Section II: The Art Of Breaking & Entering 03: Picking Master Locks 04: The Arts of Lockpicking I 05: The Arts of Lockpicking II 06: Lockpicking 3 07: LockPicking 4 08: Lockpicking the EASY way 09: Breaking into Houses 10: Stealing 11: Hotwiring cars |
> |
Back To Index |
Section III: Fraud 12: How to Get a New Identity 13: Counterfeiting Money 14: Credit Card Fraud 15: The Art of Carding 16: Recognizing Credit Cards 17: Jackpotting ATM Machines 18: Ripping off Change Machines 19: Ripping off change machines 2 20: Surveillance Equipment 21: European Credit Card Fraud |
< |
Section IV: Misc. Anarchy 22: Lab-Raid Checklist 23: Suppliers II 24: Special Ammunition 25: Rocketry 26: Blowgun 27: Home-brew blast cannon 28: Pipe Cannon 2 29: Portable Grenade Launcher 30: Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower 31: Down The Road Missle 32: Low Signature Systems (Silencers) 33: Highway police radar jamming 34: Do ya hate school? 35: Hypnotism 36: Fun at K-Mart 37: Terrorizing McDonalds |
38: Mace Substitute 39: Operation: Fuckup 40: Pool Fun 41: Free Postage 42: Miscellaneous 43: Misc. Anarchy 44: Misc. Anarchy II |
Section V: Drugs 45: How to Grow Marijuana (With some little known facts at the end) 46: Yummy Marihuana Recipes 47: LSD 48: Bananas 49: Peanuts 50: Weird Drugs |
Section VI: Revenge 51: Ways to send a car to HELL 52: More Ways to Send a Car to Hell 53: Electronic Terrorism 54: How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands 55: Nicotine |
Your Legal Rights Because you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you should be aware of your legal rights IF arrested (hey, it happens to the worst of us). Your Legal Rights are:: 1) Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after you are arrested. 2) Be notified of the charges against you. 3) Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted. 4) Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury. 5) Be present at all stages of the trial. 6) Confront your accusers. (without the baseball bat) 7) Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses. 8) Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf. 9) Be tried for a crime only once. 10) Receive neither cruel nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a crime and sentenced. NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the reading of the rights, etc. If these rights are violated in ANY way, that may be cause for a mistrial, or even total release. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
How The Law Protects Juvenile Offenders (or tries to, anyway) Juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended to protect them, because of their age. If a juvenile is charged with a crime punishable by a term in a reform school or juvenile detention facility, he is assured the right to: 1) Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself. 2) Be placed in quarters seperate from adult offenders while being held in custody. 3) Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him. 4) Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to appear at his trial (unless the child is likely to run away and not come back to court unless he is dangerous or may himself be in danger if sent back home). 5) Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public. 6) Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future appeal. 7) Be represented by a lawyer. 8) Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one. 9) Confront his accusers. 10) Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses. Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). The older models are from 1988-1990. The newer models are being cracked on as we speak.. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago, IL 60634 Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \ K | | | | | | / E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
LOCKPICKING 3 If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back into the door. Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be slipped. (Ill. 2.11) ___ | } < Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger second |___} < finger Some methods for getting through locked doors are: 1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. 2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why bother to slip the lock at all? 3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip. 4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make it much easier to pick. 5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness. 6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/.... 7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. 8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it generally takes a *lot* of patience. 9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. 10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins reported there the next day... 11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those places you're *really* curious about. 12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) SLIPPING A LOCK The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs, etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one. (Ill. #1) The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: ________________________________________ /________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| (Ill. #2) _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| (Ill. #3) _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
OPENING COMBO LOCKS [ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ] First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when you don't know the combination to begin with). To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down. Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy various locks. Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the shim in. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner... Brought to you by: -= Exodus =- This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked. The only problem with this, though, is that it only works for outward opening doors. Ok, here we go.... 1) Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing that sticks between the door and the wall. 2) See how that thing is curved on one side? Well, that is what we will be making use of. 3) Acquire a large paper-clip. If it is too short, it won't work. You have to also have a shoelace. Now, onto the construction... 4) Straighten the paper-clip. 5) Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace. The shoelace should be about 4/5 on one side of the clip and 1/5 on the other. Let's see if I can draw it. ------------------************************************* -* ******* --- is the paper clip *** is the shoelace That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture. 6) All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it) 7) With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall, behind the metal thing that sticks between. 8) Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the shoelace. 9) Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA! the door is open. I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because it is a lot quicker. Lock picking can take 5 minutes... When done correctly this only takes 30 seconds! So, if you can, use this. another addition to the mighty cookbook by ACID FLESH Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Breaking Into Houses by the Jolly Roger Okay You Need: 1. Tear Gas or Mace 2. A BB/Pelet Gun 3. An Ice Pick 4. Thick Gloves What You Do Is: 1. Call the ###-#### of the house, or ring doorbell, To find out if they're home. 2. If they're not home then... 3. Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever). 4. If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas. 5. Put the gloves on!!!!!!! 6. Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks. 7. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun). 8. Enter window. 9. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (they're neat things there!). 10. Then goto the Bed-room to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in the pillow case. 11. Get out <-* FAST! -*> Notes: You should have certian targets worked out (like computers, Radios, Ect.,Ect.). Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own neigborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++ STEALING ++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ It is strange just how many files there are out there that try to document the art of stealing. After all, it IS an art. You have to be calm, smooth, persistant, patient. Stealing is not an overnight- planned operation. You should try to prepare for at least a week or more when planning to steal from a house, and even LONGER when from a business. Storytime, kiddies: A long time ago, well, in the past year, my friends and I noticed that the building complex in our town was the perfect place to obtain unpaid-for items. We learned all we could about the complex, which was about 365,000 sqft, and each company consisted of an office (fully furnished with cool computer stuff), and a 10,000 sqft (roughly) warehouse, all interconnected, and all one level. This information was obtained through several calls to the town committee (board of development, or some shit like that, the place that you call for building permits, and the like.), and we obtained the blueprints for the whole complex. We planned a route from the side entrance through the warehouse, and into the offices, where all the good stuff is usually located. Now that we had our route, all we needed was a plan to get inside. Since this was our first major job, we spent a few good weeks on preparation. During the snow weather, we worked w/ a company to shovel the sidewalks of the complex. One night, at about 11 pm, we stopped shoveling in front of our planned job site, Campbells Soup, Co. There was nobody there except the janitors that cleaned up the place (or so we thought). I asked the janitor if I could use the bathroom (I did have to go too) and he let me in. I must have surprised him when I knew exactly where the bathroom was! As I walked to it, I scanned for vid cams, infrared guns/recievers (little boxes at entrances with a black glass square about 1" sq. at about knee hight on each side). Nothing. The doors all had security magnetic detection at the tops, and also the windows. To think someone would break in through an obvious place like a large window, stupid. To my surprise, there were a few losers working late, and didn't really care that I was there at all. Take another Viverin' guys, I wont be here long. The smell of black coffee was stifeling. The bathroom was located back by the office's entrance to the warehouse, and to my surprise, it was unlocked! The lights were on, and the place was totally empty, except for a few cardboard remains, and shelves, and that blessed side door. I walked over to the door to examine it. No security, no vid cams in the warehouse, no nothing. Odd, usually these warehouses were kept tight as a hookers pussy. But it looked like they were packing up to move somewhere. Boxes on the office desks, etc.. The door was locked with a key deadbolt (pain to pick) and a regular door-knob key lock. No problem. I needed to stop that deadbolt from being locked, so I looked around for something to use....aha! There was some strange material like alum. foil on the ground, pliable, yet of a black color. I took out a small allen key (a thief never goes ANYWHERE without a small lockpicking tool) and crammed enough of the stuff into the keyhole so that a key could not be inserted far enough to turn, and the stuff was inn to far to be pulled out. Viola! Back to the point of this story. When the time came to make our move, something strange happened. The place was abandoned for 3 days straight, most office equipment removed, and the front door left ajar, for all 3 days. We still decided to enter via our planned route. At 1:30am we went to the side door, and what a surprise, the deadbolt lock was open. Now to the knob lock. It was still locked, but not a problem. Knob locks usually look like this: |-wall socket> -------------------------- | ) d -------------------------------| o | | o | ) r | ) | ) ------------------------- | |-wall socket> The top sliding piece is about 1/4" wide on popular locks, with the bar facing you, if the door swings outward. With the smallest allenkey you can get, stick it in and repeatively push and slide it back towards the knob, but don't let go, because it is spring loaded and will snap back into place again. Now for the larger bar. Take another key and wedge it into the slot where the bar enters the other wall (without the knob on it)! and do the same thing. This will be considerably harder to do than with the small tongue, but if you practiced like you should have, it will open with minimum effort. Now we were inside. We ran through the warehouse thruogh the warehouse/office door (these are rarely locked, but try to prepare for it ahead of time by "cramming the lock" like I did) and into the office. The place was empty, no shelves, just desks, chairs, and boxes. The boxes contained modems, motherboards, bus cards, printers, cables, fone cable, and one contained a Zenith laptop computer! No shit, this is a true story! We took everything we could carry (5 people). We took all the above mentioned, as well as printer toner, fones, fone jacks, documents, desk chairs, insulated boxes and bags (static-free kind), even the little shit things, like outlet plates, light bulbs, ANYTHING!!! We went really crazy, and were out in 2 min 30 sec.(always set a time limit) We wound up throwing half the shit away, but it felt great just to take anything that was not ours!! I have since then done other "jobs" with much more precision, and effort, as well as better rewards. Here are some tips that should be followed when attempting to steal:: -WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!! -backpacks for everyone to put the loot in -always case the joint for at least a week and keep documented records of who leaves when, what time it closes, timed lights, etc... -have at least 4 phriends with you, and ,please, make sure they know what they are doing, no idiots allowed! -bring tools :small allen keys, both types of screwdrivers, standard size, and tiny, hacksaw blade, wire cutters and strippers, spraypaint-to leave your handle on the wall, hammer, mace, gun-if available, flashlights (duh), wire-good for re-routing door security, and bolt cutters. -designate a person to carry all the tools ONLY-don't have him pickup stuff and mix it with the tools, this will only slow you down later if you need to look for a tool quickly. -designate a person to STAY PUT by the door and keep watch. -designate a timer, one who has a lighted stopwatch. -make runs NO LONGER THAT 3 MIN. EVEN THIS TIME IS EXTREEMELY HIGH-TRY TO KEEP AS LOW AS POSSIBLE. -getaway vehicle (preferably NOT a van or pickup truck, these will be very suspicious to the pigs..er.I mean cops. And don't speed, or anything, this just attracts attention. Cover licence plates till just before you get your asses going, so no one can report the plates to the pigs..oops!, damn, did it again, cops. Make sure you remove covering before leaving. -Always keep flashlights pointed DOWN unless necessary, crawl under windows, no shouting, even if you find some phucking cool shit, on second thought, maybe painting your handle is a little stupid, so forget that, wear dark clothes OVER regular, non-suspicious clothes (get changed first thing in the car) -Never brag about your findings in public, only on modem, or on BBS, and never give names of places, phriends, and exact names of things taken, (just say you 'borrowed' a 486DX 33 motherboard, don't say is a Intel 486DX 33 mhz for an IBM PS/1 model 50, serial #XXXXXXXXXXXX. that is just plain dumb) -Have phunn!! and never steal from your neighborhood. -If you break into houses, never move stuff around; the longer it takes the yuppie family to realize that you were there, the better. -WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!! -to get in windows: shoot window with BB gun, and place clear, stickey hard-cover book covering on the window over the hole, hopefully the inpact of the shot was enough to crack the glass, and LEAN OR PUSH on the covered glass, do not hit or kick, and you will see that the majority of the glass will stick to the covering, and will make considerably less noise. -enter through basement windows preferably under a deck or steps. -MAKE SURE THE PEOPLE WILL BE GONE FOR THE NIGHT AND THE NEIGHBORS ARE ASLEEP (GO FOR AROUND 2:30 AM) -take stuff that will sell easily to friends, and don't waste time taking things that look neat, just take the basics: electronic, computer, TV, VCR, some jewelry-things you could easily hock, preferably without inscriptions, raid the fridge, take good quality fones, stereo equip., speakers, etc.. -always case the outside of the house looking for security stickers that yuppie families like to place in full view. -do mischievous shit like cut all fone lines in house, cut up couch cushions, and flip them over so they look perfectly normal!; shoot a hole in their fish tank, (all yuppies own fish); slash clothes, then put them back into the drawer; unplug fridge; set thermostat way up to 99.9 degrees; leave drain plugged and let the faucet run just a little, (for 6 hours!!); whatever you can't take or carry out, destroy in a subtle way, -if you can't carry out those 130 lb wood case stereo speakers, slash the cones; break ballpoint pens open and rub them into the carpet with their shoes; run a magnet over audio and VCR cassettes and floppies, and anything else subtle that would brighten their day. A personal favorite, Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
How To Create A New Indentity By The Walking Glitch Courtesy of the Jolly Roger! You might be saying, "Hey Glitch, what do I need a new identity for?" The answer is simple. You might want to go buy liquor somewhere, right? You might want to go give the cops the false name when you get busted so you keep your good name, eh? You might even want to use the new identity for getting a P.O. Box for carding. Sure! You might even want the stuff for renting yourself a VCR at some dickless loser of a convenience store. Here we go: Getting a new ID isn't always easy, no one said it would be. By following these steps, any bozo can become a new bozo in a coupla weeks. STEP 1 The first step is to find out who exactly you'll become. The most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it themselves. The people who fit that bill the best are dead. As an added bonus they don't go complaining one bit. Go to the library and look through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about the same time as you were, or better yet, a year or two older so you can buy booze, etc. You should go back as far as you can for the death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people can't do this in the future. The cutoff date in Wisconsin is 1979, folks in this grand state gotta look in 1978 or earlier. Anything earier there is cool. Now, this is the hardest part if you're younger. Brats that young happen to be quite resilient, takin' falls out of three story windows and eating rat poison like its Easter candy, and not a scratch or dent. There ain't many that die, so ya gotta look your ass off. Go down to the library and look up all the death notices you can, if it's on microfilm so much the better. You might have to go through months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it. You gotta get someone who died locally in most instances: the death certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you go down to the county courthouse in the county where he died and get the death certificate, this will cost you around $3-$5 depending on the state you're in. Look at this hunk of paper, it could be your way to vanish in a clould of smoke when the right time comes, like right after that big scam. If You're lucky, the slobs parents signed him up with social security when he was a snot nosed brat. That'll be another piece of ID you can get. If not, thats ok too. It'll be listed on the death certificate if he has one. If you're lucky, the stiff was born locally and you can get his birth certificate right away. STEP 2 Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in the same place you standing now you're all set. If not, you can mail away for one from that county but its a minor pain and it might take a while to get, the librarian at the desk has listings of where to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth cirtificate, its worth the extra money to get it certified because thats the only way some people will accept it for ID. When yur gettin this stuff the little forms ask for the reason you want it, instead of writing in "Fuck you", try putting in the word "Geneology". They get this all the time. If the Death certificate looks good for you, wait a day or so before getting the certified birth certificate in case they recognize someone wanting it for a dead guy. STEP 3 Now your cookin! You got your start and the next part's easy. Crank out your old Dot matrix printer and run off some mailing labels addressed to you at some phony address. Take the time to check your phony address that there is such a place. Hotels that rent by the month or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip code for the area. These are things that the cops might notice that will trip you up. Grab some old junk mail and paste your new lables on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library. Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that you really aren't sure because your family moved around alot when you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form of ID when you get your card. If they want more give them a sob story about how you were mugged and got your wallet stolen with all your identification. Your card should be waiting for you in about two weeks. Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can be your trusty Birth Certificate, and they do allow letters addressed to you as a second form. STEP 4 Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old letters, or better yet stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff. Go to the county courthouse and show them what nice ID you got and get a state ID card. Now you got a picture ID. This will take about two weeks and cost about $5, its well worth it. STEP 5 If the death certificate had a social security number on it you can go out and buy one of those metal SS# cards that they sell. If it didn't, then you got all kinds of pretty ID that shows exactly who you are. If you don't yet have an SS#, Go down and apply for one, these are free but they could take five or six weeks to get, Bureaucrats you know... You can invent a SS# too if ya like, but the motto of 'THE WALKING GLITCH' has always been "Why not excellence?". STEP 6 If you want to go whole hog you can now get a bank account in your new name. If you plan to do alot of traveling then you can put alot of money in the account and then say you lost the account book. After you get the new book you take out all the cash. They'll hit you with a slight charge and maybe tie-up your money some, but if you're ever broke in some small town that bank book will keep you from being thrown in jail as a vagrant. ALL DONE? So kiddies, you got ID for buying booze, but what else? In some towns (the larger the more likely) the cops if they catch you for something petty like shoplifting stuff under a certain dollar amount, will just give you a ticket, same thing for pissing in the street. Thats it! No fingerprints or nothing, just pay the fine (almost always over $100) or appear in court. Of course they run a radio check on your ID, you'll be clean and your alter-ego gets a blot on his record. Your free and clear. Thats worth the price of the trouble you've gone through right there. If your smart, you'll toss that ID away if this happens, or better yet, tear off your picture and give the ID to someone you don't like, maybe they'll get busted with it. If you're a working stiff, here's a way to stretch your dollar. Go to work for as long as it takes to get unemployment and then get yourself fired. Go to work under the other name while your getting the unemployment. With a couple of sets of ID, you can live like a king. These concepts for survival in the new age come to you compliments of THE WALKING GLITCH. First release of this phile 7/7/88. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Counterfeiting Money by JRoger Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Credit Card Fraud: ----------------- For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card examples: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: [1] An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. [2] Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. [3] People's houses Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck! First compiled in JRII.. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
The Art of Carding by the Jolly Roger Obtaining a credit card number: There are many ways to obtain the information needed to card something. The most important things needed are the card number and the expiration date. Having the card-holders name doesn't hurt, but it is not essential. The absolute best way to obtain all the information needed is by trashing. The way this is done is simple. You walk around your area or any other area and find a store, mall, supermarket, etc., that throws their garbage outside on the sidewalk or dumpster. Rip the bag open and see if you can find any carbons at all. If you find little shreds of credit card carbons, then it is most likely not worth your time to tape together. Find a store that does not rip their carbons at all or only in half. Another way is to bullshit the number out of someone. That is call them up and say "Hello, this is Visa security and we have a report that your card was stolen." They will deny it and you will try to get it out of them from that point on. You could say, "It wasn't stolen? Well what is the expiration date and maybe we can fix the problem.... Ok and what is the number on your card?......Thank you very much and have a nice day." Or think of something to that degree. Another way to get card numbers is through systems such as TRW and CBI, this is the hard way, and probably not worth the trouble, unless you are an expert on the system. Using credit card numbers posted on BBS's is risky. The only advantage is that there is a good chance that other people will use it, thus decreasing the chances of being the sole-offender. The last method of getting numbers is very good also. In most video rental stores, they take down your credit card number when you join to back-up your rentals. So if you could manage to steal the list or make a copy of it, then you are set for a LONG time. Choosing a victim: Once you have the card number, it is time to make the order. The type of places that are easiest to victimize are small businesses that do mail order or even local stores that deliver. If you have an ad for a place with something you want and the order number is NOT a 1-800 number then chances are better that you will succeed. Ordering: When you call the place up to make the order, you must have several things readily at hand. These are the things you will need: A name, telephone number, business phone, card number (4 digit bank code if the card is MasterCard), expiration date, and a complete shipping and billing address. I will talk about all of these in detail. A personal tip: When I call to make an order, it usually goes much smoother if the person you are talking to is a woman. In many cases they are more gullible than men. The name: You could use the name on the card or the name of the person who you are going to send the merchandise to. Or you could use the name on the card and have it shipped to the person who lives at the drop (Say it is a gift or something). The name is really not that important because when the company verifies the card, the persons name is never mentioned, EXCEPT when you have a Preffered Visa card. Then the name is mentioned. You can tell if you have a Preffered Visa card by the PV to the right of the expiration date on the carbon. Nophone all day long waiting for the company to call (Which they will), then the phone number to give them as your home-phone could be one of the following: A number that is ALWAYS busy, a number that ALWAYS rings, a payphone number, low end of a loop (and you will wait on the other end), or a popular BBS. NEVER give them your home phone because they will find out as soon as the investigation starts who the phone belongs to. The best thing would be to have a payphone call forward your house (via Cosm The business number: When asked for, repeat the number you used for your home phone. Card number: The cards you will use will be Visa, Mastercard, and American Express. The best is by far Visa. It is the most straight-forward. Mastercard is pretty cool except for the bank code. When they ask for the bank code, they sometimes also ask for the bank that issued it. When they ask that just say the biggest bank you know of in your area. Try to avoid American Express. They tend to lead full scale investigations. Unfortunately, American Express is the most popular card out. When telling the person who is taking your call the card number, say it slow, clear, and with confidence. e.g. CC# is 5217-1234-5678-9012. Pause after each set of four so you don't have to repeat it. Expiration date: The date must be at LEAST in that month. It is best to with more than three months to go. The address: More commonly referred to as the 'drop'. Well the drop can range from an abandoned building to your next door neighbors apartment. If you plan to send it to an apartment building then be sure NOT to include an apartment number. This will confuse UPS or postage men a little and they will leave the package in the lobby. Here is a list of various drops: The house next door whose family is on vacation, the apartment that was just moved out of, the old church that will be knocked down in six months, your friends house who has absolutely nothing to do with the type of merchandise you will buy and who will also not crack under heat from feds, etc.. There are also services that hold merchandise for you, but personally I would not trust them. And forget about P.O. Boxes because you need ID to get one and most places don't ship to them anyway. Other aspects of carding:Verifying cards, seeing if they were reported stolen. Verifying cards: Stores need to verify credit cards when someone purchases something with one. They call up a service that checks to see if the customer has the money in the bank. The merchant identifies himself with a merchant number. The service then holds the money that the merchant verified on reserve. When the merchant sends in the credit card form, the service sends the merchant the money. The service holds the money for three days and if no form appears then it is put back into the bank. The point is that if you want to verify something then you should verify it for a little amount and odds are that there will be more in the bank. The good thing about verification is that if the card doesn't exist or if it is stolen then the service will tell you. To verify MasterCard and Visa try this number. It is voice:1-800-327-1111 merchant code is 596719. Stolen cards: Mastercard and Visa come out with a small catalog every week where they publish EVERY stolen or fraudulantly used card. I get this every week by trashing the same place on the same day. If you ever find it trashing then try to get it every week. Identifying cards: Visa card numbers begin with a 4 and have either 13 or 16 digits. MasterCard card numbers begin with a 5 and have 16 digits. American Express begins with a 3 and has 15 digits. They all have the formats of the following: 3xxx-xxxxxx-xxxxx American Express 4xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx Visa 4xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx Visa 5xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx MasterCard Gold cards: A gold card simply means that credit is good for $5000. Without a gold card, credit would be normally $2000. To recognize a gold card on a carbon there are several techniques: American Express-none. Visa-PV instead of CV. Note-When verifying a PV Visa, you have to have the real name of the cardholder. Mastercard-An asterix can signify a gold card, but this changes depending when the card was issued. I am going to type out a dialog between a carder and the phone operator to help you get the idea. Operator: "Over-priced Computer Goods, may I help you?" Carder: "Hi, I would like to place an order please." Operator: "Sure, what would you like to order?" Carder: "400 generic disks and a double density drive." Operator: "Ok, is there anything else?" Carder: "No thank you, that's all for today." Operator: "Ok, how would you like to pay for this? MasterCard or Visa?" Carder: "Visa." Operator: "And your name is?" Carder: "Lenny Lipshitz." (Name on card) Operator: "And your Visa card number is?" Carder: "4240-419-001-340" (Invalid card) Operator: "Expiration date?" Carder: "06-92." Operator: "And where would you like the package shipped to?" Carder: "6732 Goatsgate Port. Paris,texas,010166." Operator: "And what is your home telephone number?" Carder: "212-724-9970" (This number is actually always busy) Operator: "I will also need your business phone number in case we have to reach you." Carder: "You can reach me at the same number. 212-724-9970" Operator: "O.K. Thank you very much and have nice day." Carder: "Excuse me, when will the package arrive?" Operator: "In six to seven days UPS." Carder: "Thanks alot, and have a pleasant day." Now you wait 6-7 days when the package will arrive to the address which is really a house up for sale. There will be a note on the door saying, "Hello UPS, please leave all packages for Lenny Lipshitz in the lobby or porch. Thanks alot, Lenny Lipshitz" (Make the signature half-way convincing) Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Recognizing credit cards by the Jolly Roger [Sample: American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 Y1 John Doe AX Explanation: The first date is the date the person got the card, the second date is the expriation date, after the expiration date is the same digits in the first year.The American Express Gold has many more numbers (I think 6 8 then 8). If you do find a Gold card keep it for it has a $5000.00 backup even when the guy has no money! [Sample: Master Card] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY John Doe. Explanation: The format varies, I have never seen a card that did not start with a 5XXX there is another 4 digits on the next line that is sometimes asked for when ordering stuff, (and rarely a 3 digit letter combo (e. ANB). The first date is the date the person got the card and the second date is the expiration date. Master Card is almost always accepted at stores. [Sample: VISA] XXXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA John Doe Explanation: Visa is the most straight forward of the cards,for it has the name right on the card itself, again the first date is the date he got the card and the second is the expiration date. (Sometimes the first date is left out). The numbers can eather be 4 3 3 3 or 4 4 4 4. Visa is also almost always accepted at stores, therefore, the best of cards to use. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Jackpotting ATM Machines courtesy of the Jolly Roger JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it) New York. What the culprits did was: Sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the host. insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. insert a fradulent card into the ATM. (card=cash card, not hardware) What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?" What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host, discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal. What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay, then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM. What the microcomputer did was: intercept signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow! That guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have! He is really a valued customer." signal. What the ATM did: what else? Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or very nearly so). What the crooks got: well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several years when they were caught. This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any way. One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt the information passing between the ATM and the host. As long as the key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and hence the transaction) is secure. A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject...don't they? (Hee-Hee) _____ ______ | |-<<-| |-<<-| | |ATM| micro |Host| |___|->>-| |->>-|____| The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host computer. This guy basically bs'ed his way over the phone till he found someone stupid enough to give him th number. After finding that, he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple. Step 2: He had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to do. The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received, talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job waiting for him when he got out of school. Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows? Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Ripping off Change Machines by the Jolly Roger Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. 1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in!!! 2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). 4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money! !--------------------------------! ! ! ! (1) /-------\ (1) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Pic. ! ! ! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) ! ! !! ! !-----/ \-----------------------! \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1) Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
This is another good way to Compiled by: rip off a change or drink machine.... -= Exodus =- You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no rips in it. Now, you get a thin piece of transparent plastic about 3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer. Next, you need some transparant tape. Scotch magic tape will work the best. You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar. But, you must be careful not to tape it more than 1/2" up the side of the dollar. tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar. Now, all you have to do is use it: Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put it into the machine. BE CAREFUL! Some of the more modern change machines have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not. Now, the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic strip is almost all the way into the machine, and then you pull with sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it. If You did it correctly, you should have gotten whatever you bought, and still have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though, make your selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't get it on the first few tries. It took me about 5 tries to master it. It DOES, i repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just can't get it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the tape up too high on the dollar. Have fun!!!! a little annex to the cookbook from ACID FLESH Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Electronic Accessories <--Every Phreaker Needs His Own--> Some phreaks believe in the down-n-dirty customizing of equipment by crafting it themselves...not me !. I believe that the other guy should build the stuff, and I'll steal it and use it later. This is a list of places where one can obtain the devices that would other wise have to be built by hand. But after all, a good phreak can take a pre-made item and adapt it to his needs..... **COOL STUFF::** Radar Jammers: -------------- The "Eclipse" $199.00 T.E.K. Distributers P.O. Box 32287 Fridley, MN 55432 612-783-1666 Surveillance: ------------- fone bugging, fone recording sys., etc... EDE P.O. Box 337 Buffalo, NY 14226 (716)-691-3476 catalog $5 USI Corp., P.O. Box PM-2052 Melbourne, FL 32902 catalog: $2 407-725-1000 Protector P.O. Box 520294-M Salt Lake City, UT 84152 (801)-487-3823 catalog $5 FREE catalog: 1-800-732-5000 SpyMart P.O. Box 340-M Morehead City, NC 28557 catalog $4 MICRO-VIDEO: ------------ SUPERCIRCUITS 13552 Research Blvd. #B-2 Austin, TX 78750 catalog $3 Scanners: --------- CRB P.O. Box 56 Commack, NY 11725 FREE catalog HPR P.O. Box 19224PM Denver, CO 80219 (request information, I guess!?) MISC:: ------ INFORMATION UNLIMITED <<<---REALLY COOL SHIT, THE GOOD STUFF. P.O. Box 716, Dept. PM294 (kinda expensive, so get ready to Amherst, NH 03031 CARD!!) FREE catalog (w/order, otherwise $1.00) EDMUND SCIENTIFIC (always a fucking GREAT place to find the little Dept. 14D2, nitty-gritty electronics that make up C908 EdsCorp Bldg. colored boxes, and the like) Barrington, NJ 08007 Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
U.K. CREDIT CARD FRAUD - 22/10/90 - Written by CREDITMAN U.K. credit card fraud is a lot easier than over in the States. The same basic 3 essentials are needed - 1...A safehouse. 2...Credit card numbers with Xp date and address. 3...Good suppliers of next day delivery goods. 1...The Safehouse The safehouse should be on the ground floor, so as not to piss off the delivery man when he comes to drop off your freshly stolen gear. If he has to go up 10 flights in a complete dive and some 14 year old kid signs for an A2000 then he's gonna wonder! Make sure there are no nosey neighbours, a good area is one full of yuppies 'cos they all go to work during daytime. Safehouses are usually obtained by paying a month's rent in advance or putting down a deposit of say, œ200. Either that or break into a place and use that. 2...Credit Card Numbers. The card number, expiry date, start date (if possible), full name (including middle inital), phone number and full address with postcode are ideal. If you can only get the sirname, and no postcode, you shouldn't have any real hassle. Just say you moved recently to your new address. Phone number is handy, if it just rings and rings but if it doesn't, then make sure it's ex-directory. You CANNOT get away with giving them a bullshit phone number. Some fussy companies want phone numbers just to cross-check on CARDNET but generally it's not needed. To recap, here's a quick check-list... 1.Card number and Xpiry date. 2.Name and address of card holder. 3.First name/initials (OPTIONAL) 4.Start date (OPTIONAL) 5.Postcode (OPTIONAL) 6.Phone number (OPTIONAL) If you have all 6, then you shouldn't have any hassle. Start date is the rarest item you could be asked for, postcode and initals being more common. If you are missing 3-6 then you need one helluva smooth- talking bastard on the phone line!!!! 3...The Ordering Not everyone can order œ1000's of stuff - it's not easy. You have to be cool, smooth and have some good answers to their questions. I advise that you only order up to œ500 worth of stuff in one go, but if you have details 1-6 and the phone number will NOT be answered from 9- 5.30 P.M. then go up to œ1000 (make sure it's a GOLD card!). When getting ready to order make sure you have at least 3 times the amount of suppliers you need e.g.if you want to card 5 hard-drives, make sure you have 15 suppliers. A lot of the time, they are either out stock, can't do next day delivery or won't deliver to a different address. Quick check list of what you must ask before handing over number - 1.Next day delivery, OK? 2.Ordered to different address to card, OK? 3.Do you have item in stock (pretty obvious, eh?) Make sure you ask ALL of these questions before handing over your precious number. Excuses... Usual excuses for a different address are that it's a present or you're on business here for the next 5 weeks etc. Any old bullshit why it won't go to the proper address. WARNING!*******Invoices!*******WARNING! Invoices are sometimes sent out with the actual parcel but they are also sent out to the card owners (why do you think they need the address for?) so using a safehouse for more than 2 days is risky. A 1 day shot is safe, if they catch on then they'll stop the goods before getting a search warrant. Credit Limits... Limits on cards reach from œ500 to œ4000 on Gold cards. Your average card will be about œ1000-œ1500. It takes a while to build up a good credit rating in order to have large limits so don't think every card will hold 12 IBM 386's! Visa and Access are always used - American Xpress etc. are USELESS. Access = Eurocard, Mastercard (begins with 5) Visa = (begins with 4, 16 digit is a Gold) A general rule is, always confirm an order to make sure credit is cleared. As the month goes on, credit is used up - the bad times are from 27th - 3rd which is when all the bills come in. Best time to card is around 11th or 12th, when the poor guy has paid off his last bill so you can run up a new one (he, he, he!). Ideal items to card... The best stuff is always computer hard-ware as it's next-day. Amigas, ST's, PC's - anything really. Blank discs are a waste of time, they're too heavy. Xternal drives, monitors - good stuff basically. Don't order any shit like VCR's, hi-fi, video-cameras, music keyboards, computer software, jewerely or anything under œ300. You'll find the listed items are difficult to get next day delivery and usually won't deliver to a different address - bastards, eh? You're wasting your time with little items under œ300, try to keep deliveries under 10 a day. The drop.... Two ways of doing the drop 1.Sign for all the gear (make sure you're there between 9.00 and 5.30 P.M.) 2.Don't turn up till around 6.30 P.M. and collect all the cards that the delivery man has left. These usually say 'you were out at XX time so could you please arrange new time for delivery or pick up from our depot'. In that case, piss off to the depot and get all the gear (need a big car!). Remember, carding is ILLEGAL kiddies, so don't do it unless you're going to cut me on it!!!! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS by: Exodus In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following: LIQUIDS SOLIDS _______ ______ ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum ____ Potassium Permanganate GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) _______ ____ Mercury ____ Potassium Nitrate ____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide ____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus ____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate ____ Barium Nitrate Print this sheet out and carry it with you! Memorize it, anything. It is INVALUABLE. All of these chemicals should be carried in your school lab. Happy hunting. :) Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
-------**>> LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION <<**-------- Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like. COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838 AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692 R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION P.O. BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS P.O. BOX 10585 YAKIMA,WA 98909 EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NEVADA 89509 COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547 NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095 RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975 BOOKS ÄÄÄÄÄ THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK II-IV (highly circulated) THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk) MILITARY EXPLOSIVES Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the addresses given in the introduction. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: ____________________ /mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/----------------------- Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could easily blow the back of your head off. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below. _o_ ------------ drop of wax /|*|\ | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive | |_| | |_____| This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing "exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: ____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun || || Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: _____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V ______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
ROCKETS AND CANNONS Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. ROCKETS Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. _________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. BASIC ROCKET BOMB A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. ____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________| thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> :::: Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: |\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | | leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/ The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. | fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | | By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustated on the following page: ____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \ V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______| Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground | LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | | |___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \ | / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | | C6-0 rocket engine The fuse is put in the bottom engine. Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Blowgun by The Jolly Roger In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of the blow gun described in this article IS a felony. So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted. Needed: 1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece) 2. A regular pencil 3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle. 4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter Constructing the dart: 1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil till it comes off. 2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape). 3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before. 4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration) ##### >>>>>-----/ # is the yarn > is the head of the pencil - is the pin it-self / is the head of the pin Using the Darts: 1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put on more yarn.) 2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect. 3rd- blow on the end of the pipe. 4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel a lot better. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe -5 feet of bellwire -1 SPST rocker switch -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack) -Electrical Tape -One free afternoon Procedure: - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily. - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /------ !lighter!!<---metal lever !!! !! Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top. - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!' - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top. 1--------------- v/ 2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside 3 the relay cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!) - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run! To Test: Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
BASIC PIPE CANNON -= Exodus =- A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: __________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |_____________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________| An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. ___ When the cannon is fired, it ( ) will ignite the end of the |C | fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M| cartridge. The | | explosive-filled cartridge | | will explode in about three \ / seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse Such a projectile would look [] like this: [] ! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads) ROCKET FIRING CANNON ___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a / \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A | | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket | C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the | M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is | | moving will go further than one that is launched when it | | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal |___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look | E | like the image to the left. | N | | G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, | I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection | N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection | E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb |___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity. REINFORCED PIPE CANNON In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc, etc. However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here. It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead. Here is a cross section: _______ | | | xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe | |_________________________________________________ | | .................... <- steel wire } | | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________ wire | | | |__________________________________________________________ holds | |....| | it up |>|....| | in the| | | |__________________________________________________________ cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________ | | |____ } | | ..................... } <- cast lead | |_______________________________________________}_ | | _____________________________________________ | xxxxx |_____| We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the lead will stiffen and stop the leak. We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun powder in this thing. After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Portable Grenade Launcher by the Jolly Roger If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Down the Road' Missle This missle is aptly named because it travels best down a street or road. This is nothing more that harmless phun intended to scare the living shit out of oncoming cars. How To Make A Missle -------------------- All you need are : -Hairspray can, or something else with flammable propellant (don't use spraypaint dipshit, it makes a big mess!) -book of ordinary matches -tape (clear if possible, its thinner) -BB or pellet gun (use BB's if possible) Instructions: ------------- Tape the book of matches to the bottom of the can, y'know, the CONCAVE part. You might want to arrange the matches so that they are spread over a wide area of the bottom of the can, but close together. Shake the can up vigorously. Now place the can on its side with the nozzle of the can pointed in the direction you want it to go, down a road, off a ramp, at your sister, etc.. Now stand back a bit, and shoot at the matches. It should take off at about 30 ft per sec!! What happens in case you couldn't tell, is the BB hits the matches and causes a spark, and at roughly the same time, punctures the weak bottom of the can. As the propellant sprays out, it hopefully comes in contact with the spark, and presto. If you dont do it right you'll blow a lot of money because each can can only be used once, so experiment to find best results. In The Air Missle ----------------- Compile the rocket as stated before, and put it verticle on a stand of some sort with the bottom accessable. Place a section of PVC pipe 95 deg. preferred and shoot into the PVC pipe which should direct the BB upward, and the can should take off. Experiment w/ different cans, its hard to find ones that work perfectly, and still go higher than 30 ft. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Low Signature Systems (Silencers) by the Jolly Roger Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons can be made from steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Material Required: ----------------- Grenade Container Steel pipe nipple, 6 in. (15 cm) long - (see table 1 for diameter) 2 steel pipe couplings - (see table 2 for dimensions) Cotton cloth - (see table 2) Drill Absorbent cotton Procedure: --------- 1) Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe nipple. (see table 1) -> /----------------------\ / | | 2.75 in | ) ( <-holes dia. \ | | -> \-----------------------/ |-----------------------| 5 in. 2) Drill four rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use table 1 for diameter and location of holes. (Note: I suck at ASCII art!) 6 in. |-----------------------------------| _____________________________________ ___ | O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O | | C (nom. dia.) ------------------------------------- (size of hole) | \ / (space between) B (dia.) A 3) Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple. 4) Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread fully into low signature system. Barrel should butt against end of the drilled pipe nipple. 5) Seperate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half. 6) Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom half of the container. Pack theabsorbent cotton inside the container and around the pipe nipple. 7) Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assemble container to the bottom half. 8) Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple. Note: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same "A" and "B" dimensions as those given, will furthur reduce the signature of the system. How to use: ---------- 1) Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely. 2) Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system (see table 2) 3) Load weapon 4) Weapon is now ready for use TABLE 1 -- Low Signature System Dimensions ------------------------------------------ (Coupling) Holes per (4 rows) A B C D Row Total ------------------------------------------------------------------------ .45 cal 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48 .38 cal 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 9 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 7.62 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 .22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ *Extra Heavy Pipe (All dimensions in inches) TABLE 2 -- Cotton Wadding - Sizes --------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- Weapon Cotton Wadding Size ------------------------------------------------- .45 cal 1-1/2 x 6 inches .38 cal 1 x 4 inches 9 mm 1 x 4 inches 7.62 mm 1 x 4 inches .22 cal Not needed ------------------------------------------------- Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN! -Jolly Roger- P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger - One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer...). - Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). - Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. - Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM. - Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. - Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! - Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist. - Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. -Get a virus from The Black Gate BBS, and infect their computers! Most likely they use WordPerfect, Excel, and shit like that. - USE YOUR IMAGINATION! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
A Guide to Hypnotism Courtesy of the Jolly Roger (Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the uppercase!) +-------------------+ ! WHAT HYPNOTISM IS ! +-------------------+ HYPNOTISM, CONTRARY TO COMMON BELEIF, IS MERELY STATE WHEN YOUR MIND AND BODY ARE IN A STATE OF RELAXATION AND YOUR MIND IS OPEN TO POSITIVE, OR CLEVERLY WORDED NEGATIVE, INFLUENCES. IT IS NOT A TRANCE WHERE YOU: > ARE TOTALLY INFLUENCABLE. > CANNOT LIE. > A SLEEP WHICH YOU CANNOT WAKE UP FROM WITHOUT HELP. THIS MAY BRING DOWN YOUR HOPE SOMEWHAT, BUT, HYPNOTISM IS A POWERFUL FOR SELF HELP, AND/OR MISCHEIF. +-----------------------+ ! YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND ! +-----------------------+ BEFORE GOING IN FURTHER, I'D LIKE TO STATE THAT HYPNOTISM NOT ONLY IS GREAT IN THE WAY THAT IT RELAXES YOU AND GETS YOU (IN THE LONG RUN) WHAT YOU WANT, BUT ALSO THAT IT TAPS A FORCE OF INCREDIBLE POWER, BELEIVE IT OR NOT, THIS POWER IS YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND. THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND ALWAYS KNOWS WHAT IS GOING ON WITH EVERY PART OF YOUR BODY, EVERY MOMENT OF THE DAY. IT PROTECTS YOU FROM NEGATIVE INFLUENCES, AND RETAINS THE POWER TO SLOW YOUR HEARTBEAT DOWN AND STUFF LIKE THAT. THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND HOLDS JUST ABOUT ALL THE INFO YOU WOULD LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT YOURSELF, OR, IN THIS CASE, THE PERSON YOU WILL BE HYPNOTISING. THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS AND HAVE IT TALK BACK TO YOU. ONE WAY IS THE OUJA BOARD, NO ITS NOT A SPIRIT, MERELY THE MINDS OF THOSE WHO ARE USING IT. ANOTHER, WHICH I WILL DISCUSS HERE, IS THE PENDULUM METHOD. OK, HERE IS HOW IT GOES. FIRST, GET A RING OR A WASHER AND TIE IT TO A THREAD A LITTLE LONGER THAN HALF OF YOUR FOREARM. NOW, TAKE A SHEET OF PAPER AND DRAW A BIG CIRCLE IN IT. IN THE BIG CIRCLE YOU MUST NOW DRAW A CROSSHAIR (A BIG +). NOW, PUT THE SHEET OF PAPER ON A TABLE. NEXT, HOLD THE THREAD WITH THE RING OR WASHER ON IT AND PLACE IT (HOLDING THE THREAD SO THAT THE RING IS 1 INCH ABOVE THE PAPER SWINGING) IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR. NOW, SWING THE THREAD SO THE WASHER GOES UP AND DOWN, SAY TO YOURSELF THE WORD "YES" NOW, DO IT SIDE TO SIDE AND SAY THE WORD "NO". DO IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DON'T KNOW". AND LASTLY, DO IT CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DONT WANT TO SAY." NOW, WITH THE THREAD BACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR, ASK YOURSELF QUESTIONS AND WAIT FOR THE PENDULUM TO SWING IN THE DIRECTION FOR THE ANSWER. (YES, NO, I DONT KNOW OR I DONT WANNA SAY...). SOON, TO YOUR AMAZEMENT, IT WILL BE ANSWERING QUESTIONS LIKE ANYTHING... LET THE PENDULUM ANSWER, DONT TRY.. WHEN YOU TRY YOU WILL NEVER GET AN ANSWER. LET THE ANSWER COME TO YOU. +-------------------------+ ! HOW TO INDUCE HYPNOTISM ! +-------------------------+ NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND, I WILL NOW TELL YOU HOW TO GUIDE SOMEONE INTO HYPNOSIS. NOTE THAT I SAID GUIDE, YOU CAN NEVER, HYNOTISE SOMEONE, THEY MUST BE WILLING. OK, THE SUBJECT MUST BE LYING OR SITTING IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION, RELAXED, AND AT A TIME WHEN THINGS ARENT GOING TO BE INTERRUPTED. TELL THEM THE FOLLOWING OR SOMETHING CLOSE TO IT, IN A PEACEFUL, MONOTINOUS TONE (NOT A COMMANDING TONE OF VOICE) NOTE: LIGHT A CANDLE AND PLACE IT SOMEWHERE WHERE IT CAN BE EASILY SEEN. TAKE A DEEP BREATH THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND HOLD IT IN FOR A COUNT OF 8. NOW, THROUGH YOUR MOUTH, EXHALE COMPLETELY AND SLOWLY. CONTINUED BREATHING LONG, DEEP, BREATHS THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND EXHALING THROUGH YOUR MOUTH. TENSE UP ALL YOUR MUSCLES VERY TIGHT, NOW, COUNTING FROM TEN TO ONE, RELEASE THEM SLOWLY, YOU WILL FIND THEM VERY RELAXED. NOW, LOOK AT THE CANDLE, AS YOU LOOK AT IT, WITH EVERY BREATH AND PASSING MOMEMENT, YOU ARE FEELING INCREASINGLY MORE AND MORE PEACEFUL AND RELAXED. THE CANDLES FLAME IS PEACEFUL AND BRIGHT. AS YOU LOOK AT IT I WILL COUNT FROM 100 DOWN, AS A COUNT, YOUR EYES WILL BECOME MORE AND MORE RELAXED, GETTING MORE AND MORE TIRED WITH EACH PASSING MOMENT." NOW, COUNT DOWN FROM 100, ABOUT EVERY 10 NUMBERS SAY "WHEN I REACH XX YOUR EYES (OR YOU WILL FIND YOUR EYES) ARE BECOMING MORE AND MORE TIRED." TELL THEM THEY MAY CLOSE THEIR EYES WHENEVER THEY FEEL LIKE IT. IF THE PERSONS EYES ARE STILL OPEN WHEN YOU GET TO 50 THEN INSTEAD OF SAYING "YOUR EYES WILL.." SAY "YOUR EYES ARE...". WHEN THEIR EYES ARE SHUT SAY THE FOLLOWING. AS YOU LIE (OR SIT) HERE WITH YOUR EYES COMFORTABLY CLOSE YOU FIND YOURSELF RELAXING MORE AND MORE WITH EACH MOMENT AND BREATH. THE RELAXATION FEELS PLEASANT AND BLISSFUL SO, YOU HAPPILY GIVE WAY TO THIS WONDERFUL FEELING. IMAGINGE YOURSELF ON A CLOUD, RESTING PEACEFULLY, WITH A SLIGHT BREEZE CARESSING YOUR BODY. A TINGLING SENSASION BEGINS TO WORK ITS WAY, WITHIN AND WITHOUT YOUR TOES, IT SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR FEET, MAKING THEM WARM, HEAVY AND RELAXED. THE CLOUD IS SOFT AND SUPPORTS YOUR BODY WITH ITS SOFT TEXTURE, THE SCENE IS PEACEFUL AND ABSORBING, THE PEACEFULNESS ABSORBS YOU COMPLETELY... THE TINGLING GENTLY AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR LEGS, RELAXING THEM. MAKING THEM WARM AND HEAVY. THE RELAXATION FEELS VERY GOOD, IT FEELS SO GOOD TO RELAX AND LET GO. AS THE TINGLING CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY UP INTO YOUR SOLAR PLEXUS, YOU FEEL YOUR INNER STOMACH BECOME VERY RELAXED. NOW, IT MOVES SLOWLY INTO YOUR CHEST, MAKING YOUR BREATHING RELAXED AS WELL. THE FEELING BEGINS TO MOVE UP YOUR ARMS TO YOUR SHOULDERS, MAKING YOUR ARMS HEAVY AND RELAXED AS WELL. YOU ARE AWARE OF THE TOTAL RELAXATION YOU ARE NOW EXPERIENCING, AND YOU GIVE WAY TO IT. IT IS GOOD AND PEACEFUL, THE TINGLING NOW MOVEVES INTO YOUR FACE AND HEAD, RELAXING YOUR JAWS, NECK, AND FACIAL MUSCLES, MAKING YOUR CARES AND WORRIES FLOAT AWAY. AWAY INTO THE BLUE SKY AS YOU REST BLISFUlLY ON THE CLOUD.... IF THEY ARE NOT RESPONSIVE OR YOU THINK THEY (HE OR SHE..) IS GOING TO SLEEP, THEN ADD IN A "...ALWAYS CONCENTRATING UPON MY VOICE, INGORING ALL OTHER SOUNDS. EVEN THOUGH OTHER SOUNDS EXSIST, THEY AID YOU IN YOUR RELAXATION..." THEY SHOULD SOON LET OUT A SIGH AS IF THEY WERE LETTING GO, AND THEIR FACE SHOULD HAVE A "WOODENESS" TO IT, BECOMING FEATURLESS... NOW, SAY THE FOLLOWING ".... YOU NOW FIND YOURSELF IN A HALLWAY, THE HALLWAY IS PEACEFUL AND NICE. AS I COUNT FROM 10 TO 1 YOU WILL IMAGINE YOURSELF WALKING FURTHER AND FURTHER DOWN THE HALL. WHEN I REACH ONE YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF WHERE YOU WANT TO BE, IN ANOTHER, HIGHER STATE OF CONCIOUS AND MIND. (COUNT FROM TEN TO ONE)....." DO THIS ABOUT THREE OR FOUR TIMES. THEN, TO TEST IF THE SUBJECT IS UNDER HYPNOSIS OR NOT, SAY.... "...YOU FEEL A STRANGE SENSATION IN YOUR (ARM THEY WRITE WITH) ARM, THE FEELING BEGINS AT YOUR FINGERS AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR ARM, AS IT MOVES THROUGH YOUR ARM YOUR ARM BECOMES LIGHTER AND LIGHTER, IT WILL SOON BE SO LIGHT IT WILL ..... BECOMING LIGHTER AND LIGHTER WHICH EACH BREATH AND MOMENT..." THEIR FINGERS SHOULD BEGIN TO TWITCH AND THEN MOVE UP, THE ARM FOLLOWING, NOW MY FRIEND, YOU HAVE HIM/HEP IN HYPNOSIS. THE FIRST TIME YOU DO THIS, WHILE HE/SHE IS UNDER SAY GOOD THINGS, LIKE: "YOUR GOING TO FEEL GREAT TOMORROW" OR "EVERY DAY IN EVERY WAY YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF BECOMING BETTER AND BETTER".. OR SOME CRAP LIKE THAT... THE MORE THEY GO UNDER, THE DEEPER IN HYPNOSIS THEY WILL GET EACH TIME YOU DO IT. +----------------------------+ ! WHAT TO DO WHEN HYPNOTISED ! +----------------------------+ WHEN YOU HAVE THEM UNDER YOU MUST WORD THINGS VERY CAREFULLY TO GET YOUR WAY. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY SAY... TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND FUCK THE PILLOW. NO, THAT WOULD NOT REALLY DO THE TRICK. YOU MUST SAY SOMETHING LIKE.... "YOU FIND YOUR SELF AT HOME, IN YOUR ROOM AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE A SHOWER (VIVIDLY DESCRIBE THEIR ROOM AND WHATS HAPPENING), YOU BEGIN TO TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES..." NOW, IT CANT BE THAT SIMPLE, YOU MUST KNOW THE PERSONS HOUSE, ROOM, AND SHOWER ROOM. THEN DESCRIBE THINGS VIVIDLY AND TELL THEM TO ACT IT OUT (THEY HAVE TO BE DEEPLY UNDER TO DO THIS...). I WOULD JUST SUGGEST THAT YOU EXPERIMENT A WHILE, AND GET TO KNOW HO; TO DO THINGS. +-----------+ ! WAKING UP ! +-----------+ WAKING UP IS VERY EASY, JUST SAY.. "...AS I COUNT FROM 1 TO 5 YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF BECOMMING MORE AND MORE AWAKE, MORE AND MORE LIVELY. WHEN YOU WAKE UP YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF COMPLETELY ALIVE, AWAKE, AND REFRESHED. MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY, REMEMBERING THE PLEASANT SENSATION THAT HYPNOSIS BRINGS... WAKING UP FEELING LIKE A NEW BORN BABY, REBORN WITH LIFE AND VIGOR, FEELING EXCELLENT. REMEMBERING THAT NEXT TIME YOU ENTER HYPNOSIS IT WILL BECOME AN EVER INCREASING DEEPER AND DEEPER STATE THAN BEFORE. 1- YOU FEEL ENERGY COURSE THROUGHOUT YOUR LIMBS. 2- YOU BEGIN TO BREATHE DEEPLY, STIRRING. 3- BEGINING TO MOVE MORE AND MORE YOUR EYES OPEN, BRINGING YOU UP TO FULL CONCIOUS. 4- YOU ARE UP,UP, UP AND AWAKENING MORE AND MORE. 5- YOU ARE AWAKE AND FEELING GREAT." AND THATS IT! YOU NOW KNOW HOW TO HYPNOTISE YOURSELF AND SOMEONE ELSE. YOU WILL LEARN MORE AND MORE AS YOU EXPERIMENT. ------------------Jolly Roger Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Fun at K-Mart by the Jolly Roger Well, first off, one must realise the importance of K-Marts in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did. You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos(Dear friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts. As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins... First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the attendents...Fun to do... The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day they find Apple Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type... ]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that effect.) ]20 GOTO 10 and walk away. Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock station, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk away. After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different stations, and walk away. One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the number corrisponding to the item that says 'PAGE'... And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels of K-Mart. I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy rules!!" Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
How To Terrorize McDonalds by the Jolly Roger (Originally an Apple ][ file so excuse the upper case!!!) NOW, ALTHOUGH Mc DONALDS IS FAMOUS FOR IT'S ADVERTISING AND MAKING THE WHOLE WORLD THINK THAT THE BIG MAC IS THE BEST THING TO COME ALONG SINCE SLICED BREAD (BUNS?), EACH LITTLE RESTAURANT IS AS AMATEUR AND SIMPLE AS A NEW-FOUND BUSNESS. NOT ONLY ARE ALL THE EMPLOYEES RATHER INEXPERIENCED AT WHAT THEY'RE =SUPPOSED= TO DO, BUT THEY WILL JUST LOOSE ALL CONTROL WHEN AN EMERGENCY OCCURS....HERE WE GO!!! FIRST, GET A FEW FRIENDS (4 IS GOOD...I'LL GET TO THIS LATER) AND ENTER THE MCDONALDS RESTAURANT, TALKING LOUDLY AND REAKING OF SOME STRANGE SMELL THAT AUTOMATICALLY MAKES THE OLD COUPLE SITTING BY THE DOOR LEAVE. IF ONE OF THOSE PIMPLY-FACED GOONS IS WIPING THE FLOOR, THEN TRACK SOME CRAP ALL OVER IT (YOU COULD PRETEND TO SLIP AND BREAK YOUR HEAD, BUT YOU MIGHT ACTUALLY DO SO). NEXT, BEFORE YOU GET THE FOOD, FIND A TABLE. START YELLING AND RELEASING SOME STRANGE BODY ODOR SO =ANYBODY= WOULD LEAVE THEIR TABLE AND WALK OUT THE DOOR. SIT 2 FRIENDS THERE, AND GO UP TO THE COUNTER WITH ANOTHER. FIND A PLACE WHERE THE LINE IS SHORT, OR IF THE LINE IS LONG SAY "I ONLY WANNA BUY A COKE" AND YOU GET MOVED UP. NOW, YOU GET TO DO THE =ORDERING= ...HEH HEH HEH. SOMEBODY =ALWAYS= MUST WANT A PLAIN HAMBURGER WITH ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ON IT (THIS TAKES EXTRA TIME TO MAKE, AND DRIVES THE LITTLE HAMBURGER-MAKERS INSANE)..ORDER A 9-PACK OF CHICKEN MCNUGGETS...NO, A 20 PACK...NO, THREE 6 PACKS...WAIT...GO BACK TO THE TABLE AND ASK WHO WANTS WHAT. YOUR OTHER FRIEND WAITS BY THE COUNTER AND MAKES A PASS AT THE FEMALE CLERK. GET BACK TO THE THING AND ORDER THREE 6-PACKS OF CHICKEN ETC....NOW SHE SAYS "WHAT KIND OF SAUCE WOULD YOU LIKE?".OF COURSE, SAY THAT YOU ALL WANT BARBECUE SAUCE ONE OF YOUR FRIENDS WANTS 2 (ONLY IF THERE ARE ONLY 2 CONTAINERS OF BARBECUE SAUCE LEFT).THEN THEY HAFTA GO INTO THE STOREROOM AND OPEN UP ANOTHER BOX. FINALLY, THE DRINKS...SOMEBODY WANTS COKE, SOMEBODY ROOT BEER, AND SOMEBODY DIET COKE. AFTER THESE ARE DELIVERED, BRING THEM BACK AND SAY "I DIDN'T ORDER A DIET COKE! I ORDERED A SPRITE!" THIS GETS THEM MAD; BETTER YET, TURN DOWN SOMETHING TERRIBLE THAT NOBODY WANTS TO DRINK, SO THEY HAFTA THROW THE DRINK AWAY; THEY CAN'T SELL IT. AFTER ALL THE FOOD(?) IS HANDED TO YOU, YOU MUST =NEVER= HAVE ENOUGH MONEY TO PAY. THE CLERK WILL BE SO ANGRY AND CONFUSED THAT SHE'LL LET YA GET AWAY WITH IT (ANOTHER INFLUENCE ON HER IS YOUR FRIEND ASKING HER "IF YOU LET US GO I'LL GO OUT WITH YOU" AND GIVING HER A FAKE FONE NUMBER). NOW, BACK TO YOUR TABLE. BUT FIRST, SOMEBODY LIKES KETCHUP AND MUSTARD. AND PLENTY (TOO MUCH) OF NAPKINS. OH, AND SOMEBODY LIKES FORKS AND KNIVES, SO ALWAYS END UP BREAKING THE ONES YOU PICK OUTTA THE BOX. HAVE YOUR FRIENDS YELL OUT,"YAY!!!!! WE HAVE MUNCHIES!!" AS LOUD AS THEY CAN. THAT'LL WORRY THE ENTIRE RESTAURANT. PROCEED TO SIT DOWN. SO, YOU ARE SITTING IN THE SMOKING SECTION (BY ACCIDENT) EH? WELL, WHILE ONE OF THE TOBACCO-BREATHERS ISN'T LOOKING, PUT A SIGN FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ROOM SAYING "DO NOT SMOKE HERE" AND HE'LL HAFTA MOVE...THEN HE GOES INTO THE REAL NON-SMOKING SECTION, AND GETS YELLED AT. HE THEN THINKS THAT NO SMOKING IS ALLOWED IN THE RESTAURANT, SO HE EATS OUTSIDE (IN THE POUR- ING RAIN) AFTER YOUR MEAL IS FINISHED (AND QUITE A FEW SPLATTERED-OPENED KETCHUP PACKETS ARE ALL OVER YER TABLE), TRY TO LEAVE. BUT OOPS! SOMEBODY HAS TO DO HIS DUTY IN THE MEN'S ROOM. AS HE GOES THERE, HE STICKS AN UNEATED HAMBURGGR (WOULD YOU DARE TO EAT ONE OF THEIR HAMBURGERS?) INSIDE THE TOILET, FLUSHES IT A WHILE,UNTIL IT RUNS ALL OVER THE BATHROOM. OOPS! SEND A PIMPLY-FACED TEENAGER TO CLEAN IT UP. (HE WON'T KNOW THAT BROWN THING IS A HAMBURGER, AND HE'LL GET SICK. WHEEE!) AS YOU LEAVE THE RESTCURANT, LOOKING BACK AT YOUR UNCLEANED TABLE, SOMEBODY MUST REMEMBER THAT THEY LEFT THEIR CHOCOLATE SHAKE THERE! THE ONE THAT'S ALMOST FULL!!!! HE TAKES IT THEN SAYS "THIS TASTES LIKE CRAP!", THEN HE TAKES OFF THE LID AND THROWS IT INTO THE GARBAGE CAN...OOPS! HE MISSED, AND NOW THE SAME POOR SOUL WHO'S CLEANING UP THE BATHROOM NOW HASTA CLEAN UP CHOCOLATE SHAKE. THEN LEAVE THE JOINT, REVERSING THE "YES, WE'RE OPEN" SIGN (AS A REMINDER OF YER VISIT THERE YOU HAVE IT! YOU HAVE JUST PUT ALL OF MCDONALDS INTO COMPLETE MAYHEM. AND SINCE THERE IS NO PENALTY FOR LITTERING IN A RESTAURANT, BUGGING PEOPLE IN A PUBLIC EATERY (OR THROW-UPERY, IN THIS CASE) YOU GET OFF SCOT-FREE. WASN'T THAT FUN? Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Mace Substitute by the Jolly Roger 3 PARTS: Alcohol 1/2 PARTS: Iodine 1/2 PARTS: Salt Or: 3 PARTS: Alcohol 1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons) It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes... Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Operation: Fuckup by the Jolly Roger This is a guide for Anarchists and can be funny for non-believers and 12 and 13 year old runts, and can be a lexicon of deadly knowledge for True Anarchists... Serious damage is intended to be dealt here. Do not try this stuff unless you want to do a lot of serious Anarchy. [Simulation] Asshole - 'Listen, you little teenager punk shit, shut the fuck up, or I'll knock you down!' Anarchist - 'O.K.....You can't say I didn't warn you. You don't know my rue power...' (soooo casually) Asshole - 'Well, er, what do you mean? Anarchist - '<demoniac grin>' As you can see, the Anarchist knows something that this asshole doesn't... [Operation Fuckup] Geta wheel barrel or two. Fill with gasoline. Get 16 rolls of toilet paper, unroll & drench in the gasoline. Rip to shreds in gasoline. Get asbestos gloves. Light a flare (to be punk), grab glob of saturated toilet paper (you can ignite the glob or not). Throw either flaming or dripping glob into: any window (picture is the best) front doors rough grain siding and best of all, brick walls. First of all, this bitch is near impossible to get off once dried, and is a terror to people inside when lit! After this... during the night, get a pickup truck, a few wheel-barrels, and a dozen friends with shovels. The pickup can be used only for transporting people and equipment, or doing that, and carting all the dirt. When it gets around 12:00 (after the loser goes beddie - bye), dig a gargantuan hole in his front yard until about 3:00. You can either assign three or four of your friends to cart the dirt ten miles away in the pickup-bed, or bury his front door in 15' of dirt! After that is done, get three or four buckets of tar, and coat his windows. You can make an added twist by igniting the tar when you are all done and ready to run! That is if the loser has a house. If he lives inside an apartment building, you must direct the attack more toward his car, and front door. I usually start out when he goes to work...I find out what his cheap car looks like, and memorize it for future abuse...It is always fun to paint his front door (apt.) hot pink with purple polka-dots, and off-neon colors in diagonal stripes. You can also pound a few hundred or so four inch nails into his front door (this looks like somebody really doesn't like you from the inside). Another great is to fill his keyhole with liquid steel so that after the bastard closes his door - the only way to get back in is to break it down. If you can spare it, leave him an axe - that is, implanted three inches into, and through the door! Now, this next one is difficult, but one of the best! Get a piece of wood siding that will more than cover his front door completely. Nail two by fours on the edges of the siding (all except the bottom) so you have a barge - like contraption. Make a hole at the top that will be large enough for a cement slide. Mix about six or seven LARGE bags of QUICK drying cement. Use the cement slide to fill the antichamber created by the 'barge' that is around his door. Use more two by fours to brace your little cement-filled barge, and let the little gem dry. When it is, remove the 'barge' so only a stone monolith remains that covers his door. Use any remaining cement to make a base around this so he can't just push it over. When I did this, he called the fire department, and they thought he meant wood, so they brought axes. I watched with a few dozen or so other tenants, and laughed my damn ass off! This is only his door! After he parks his car for the night, the fun really begins...I start out by opening up the car by jamming a very thin, but loack - inside and out! Then proceed to put orange-juice syrup all over the seats, so after he gets through all the other shit that you do, he will have the stickiest seats in the world. You can then get a few Sunday papers, and crack one of the windows about four inches. Lightly crumple the papers, and continue to completely fill the inside of his car with the newspapers. A copy of the Sunday New York Times will nicely fill a Volkeswagon! What is also quite amusing is to put his car on cinder blocks, slash his tires at the top, and fill them with cement! Leave the cinder blocks there so that, after he knocks the car off of them, he will get about 3 miles to the gallon with those tires, and do 0 to 60 in about two minutes! It is even more hilarious when he doesn't know why the hell why! Another is to open his hood, and then run a few wires from the sparkplugs to the METAL body. The sure is one HOT car when it is running! Now, I like to pour two pounds of sugar down his gas tank. If this doesn't blow every gasket in his engine it will do something called 'carmelizing his engine'. This is when the extreme heat turns the sugar to carmel, and you literally must completely take the engine out and apart, and clean each and every individual part! Well, if this asshole does not get the message, you had better start to get serious. If this guide was used properly & as it was intended (no, not as kindling for the fire), this asshole will either move far away, seek professional psychological help, commit suicide, or all of the above! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Pool Fun by the Jolly Roger First of all, you need know nothing about pools. The only thing you need know is what a pool filter looks like. If you don't know that. Second, dress casual. Preferably, in black. Visit your "friends" house, the one whose pool looks like fun!!) Then you reverse the polarity of his/her pool, by switching the wires around. They are located in the back of the pump. This will have quite an effect when the pump goes on. In other words. Boooooooooooommm! Thats right, when you mix + wires with - plugs, and vice- versa, the 4th of july happens again. Not into total destruction??? When the pump is off, switch the pump to "backwash". Turn the pump on and get the phuck out! When you look the next day, phunny. The pool is dry. If you want permanant damage, yet no great display like my first one mentioned, shut the valves of the pool off. (There are usually 2) One that goes to the main drain and one that goes to the filter in the pool. That should be enough to have one dead pump. The pump must take in water, so when there isn't any... Practical jokes: these next ones deal with true friends and there is *no* permanent damage done. If you have a pool, you must check the pool with chemicals. There is one labeled orthotolidine. The other is labeled alkaline (ph). You want orthotolidine. (It checks the chlorine). Go to your local pool store and tell them you're going into the pool business, and to sell you orthotolidine (a CL detector) Buy this in great quantities if possible. The solution is clear. You fill 2 baggies with this chemical. And sew the bags to the inside of your suit. Next, go swimming with your friend! Then open the bags and look like you're enjoying a piss. And anyone there will turn a deep red! They will be embarrased so much, Especially if they have guests there! Explain what it is, then add vinegar to the pool. Only a little. The "piss" disappears. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Free Postage by the Jolly Roger The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and packages is bringing down our standard of living. To remedy this deplorable situation, some counter control measures can be applied. For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not destroy the stamp: the Elmer/s drives to form an almost invisible coating that protects the stamps from the cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the letter can remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from recycling the stamps. Help save a tree. The glue is most efficently applied with a brush with stiff, short bristles. Just dip the brush directly into the glue and spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of the stamp. It will dry in about 15 minutes. For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as outlined above; however, the package should be weighed and checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of postage on it before it is taken to the Post Office. Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps can be easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm water until they float free from the paper. The stamps can then be put onto a paper towel to dry. Processing stamps in large batches saves time too. Also, it may be helpful to write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the letter (not on the envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the stamps have been protected with the glue. We all know that mailing packages can be expensive. And we also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated against in jobs. The Government, being the generous people they are, have given the blind free postal service. Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one modification. In the corner where the stamp would go, write in (or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND". Then drop you package or letter in one of the blue fedral mailboxes. DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX. Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right? Well, they aren't that nice. The parcel is sent library rate, that is below third class. It may take four to five days to send a letter to just the next town. This too is quite simple, but less effective. Put the address that you are sending the letter to as the return address. If you were sending a $20 donation to the pirate's Chest, you would put our address (po box 644, lincoln ma. 01773) as the return address. Then you would have to be carless and forget to put the stamp on the envelope. A nice touch is to put a bullshit address in the center of the envelope. Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDRAL mailbox. If the post office doesn't send the letter to the return address for having no stamp, they will send it back for the reason of "No such address". Example-- Pirates Chest Dept. 40DD P.O. Box 644865 Lincol, Ma. 41773 Tom Bullshit 20 Fake Road What Ever, XX 99851 One last thing you might try doing is soaking a cancelled stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one you are sending. Then burn the stamp, leaveing a little bit to show that there was one there. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
_____________________________ / \ {+} MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION {+} \_____________________________/ Easy explosive: -fill Kodak film case (y'know, the black cylinder with the grey cap) with explosive of your choice. Drill hole in grey lid, insert fuse, and tape it back together very tightly. Light. or: -poke a hole it the grey cap facing outwards, and insert an M-80 with fuse going through the hole and reseal, taping it tightly ALL AROUND the case. Place in plastic mailbox, light, close door, and get the hell away! Because of the tight airspace, the destructive power of the explosion is increased 5X. Works under water too, with a drop of wax, or preferably rubber cement around where the cap and wick meet. and: -fill a GLASS coke/pepsi bottle with 1 part gas, 1 part sugar, & 1 part water. Wedge an M-80 into the top about halfway. Shake the container, place in mailbox (hopefully with mail {hehe!}) light, and get the fuck away. This thing sends glass shrapnel EVERYWHERE, including through their mail. Doorknob Shocker: -run a wire from one slot in wall outlet to the bracket in the wall that the knob's tongue inserts into. Run another wire from the other slot to an inconspicuous spot on the DOORKNOB. How does that one *grab* you? Phone Loops: (remember, tone + silence = connection) NUMBER | Tone/Silence (T/S) End | STATUS (on connection) --------------------------------------------------------------------- ?-???-???-???? S no match 1-619-748-0002 T definite tone x-xxx-749-xxxx T definite tone ?-???-???-???? S no match 1-619-739-0002 T definite tone x-xxx-xxx-xxx1 S not sure of match x-xxx-738-0002 T definite x-xxx-xxx-0020 S definite x-xxx-7xx-0002 T definite ?-???-???-???? S no match Actually, any 1-619-7x9-000x gives tone detect, finding the other silent connection is a wee bit harder. If anyone manages to complete some of these, or any loops, please let me know. The only bad thing about loop lines, is that eventually the Gestapo finds out about the over-use of the line, and assigns the # to anyone who wants a new # for their fone. Then when phreaks begin to use the line again, thinking it is a loop, they get a pissed off yuppie who then has the call traced, and thats like putting your balls right in a door and slamming it. The operator will complain in your face, and say some bullshit like she has your # and will report any disturbances to the fone co. if she sees it again. Simple Virus/Easy Way To Return A Copied Program (hehe!) -when you buy a game, or something from a computer store, copy it, and want to return it (I know all of you do this), sometimes all the store does is re-cellophane it and it goes back on the shelves without being re-tested. If the original floppies have an AUTOEXEC.BAT file on them to initiate the copying/decompression at boot-up, simply edit it to say: cd\ del c:*.* y That'll make someone's day real funny, especially if the store tries to test it. Or, in most cases the store will not accept returned merchandise if it is not defective, so DEFECT IT. This is done by using a program that shows the date and time the originals were last modified (check for this BEFORE installing the program!!!!!!) such as Dosshell, or XTGold. Then set the date and time on your computer to match the originals date and time (approx). Install the program, and/or copy the originals and manuals. Now fuck around with the decompression file (usually PKUNZIP), the installation file, and any others you see. Now the store has no reason, and MUST accept the product as a return, or sometimes they will give you a return check for the $$, and send the program back to the manufacturer, which is good, because it will then be recopied, resealed, and put back on the shelves somewhere for another phreaker to HACK!! (If the above date/time matching is too much of a pain for the really retarded out there, set your computer date/time to any past ones close to the originals, and fuck with ALL the files, thus making them all match.) Battery Bombs: -Batteries like Duracell, Eveready, Energizer, etc... are specially made for home use and will not under any condition, explode when simply connected to each other. Therefore, generic batteries are required. These batteries can be obtained in hick country, or from a shitty wholesaler. I've heard of phriends putting 9Vs in the fucking microwave for a minute or so, and this is supposed to disable the "exploder protector", but anyone who puts batteries in a microwave, should have the batteries explode on them. EXODUS takes no responsibility for anything in this file!!! I never found out if 2 9v batts connected really do explode. I hope so. Any Blue Boxers?? -Not many people use blue boxes these days. They've become an eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has new equipment to detect the use of tone-emmitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box calls from is the handy-dandy pay phone at the end of the block. The only way to box calls today is to switch off to another switching system with another number: ie- -call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and ask for the technical (video game) department. This switches the number from the above to the extension of the department, usually and extension, but it can be a totally different # you are sent to while you are on hold. This is VERY good. Bullshit the employee at the tech dept., and wait for HIM to hang up first. That disconnects you from his department, but not from the innerconnections of the store. (it might even be possible to dial a number and get another department at this point). This is like 'stacking' trunks. Their dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch than a dialtone at your house. This is what you want. Now, blow 2600 accross the line, and you should have access to a trunk, and Bell Labs think that the store did it, and it is not usually questioned because the computer might think that it is part of their paging system. (not 100% sure, test around) -when someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls, dial *69 to ring him back.(if your area suscribes to this feature) What sould happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to call back the person. The COMPUTER does the calling at this point. Now when your friend picks up, bullshit him into hanging up first. Now the computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on to you. If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer may think it is its own equipment doing the calling. I'm REALLY not sure about this one. Hopefully this one works, but I can't test it because some fucked up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my MF box. <frown> MF boxes are not that hard to come by. Many hobby shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell the MF box itself, or one that detects tones, which can be used in the reverse way. Good Technical Phone Numbers: -sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding a place to look. An easy place is M.I.T. (HOME OF THE ORIGINAL PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call and say you would like the number for (give room # make one up if you have to), or call the person incharge of dorm assignments (buy a college book if you need to). Enentually, if done right, you will have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on scan, and look for carrier detect. One of these nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have a computer with a modem, and these guys will answer about 100% of your technical problems. Practical Jokes: -if you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for you: "The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes" by: Peter Van Der Linden There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well as a section of computer jokes, with a whole program of re-writing the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
MISC ANARCHY! PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons ------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX, odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is rec.pyrotechnics. At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or more. At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed therein. In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato chips provided spectacular entertainment. Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The "fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! ---------- Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. PART 4 More Fun Stuff for Terrorists Carbide Bomb This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!! PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90) Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get the picture? Good... Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following experiments: (1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to someone's fuel line!!!! (2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! (3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file (4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so. FUN WITH ALARMS A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easy to handle and dries faster. Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and games will ensue. Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as they have built-in tamper switches. On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind to prevent the circuit from closing. SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. ! ! After first making sure there are no ! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set ---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not ! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give ! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then !* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER ! ! !% ! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would ! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude ! / ! person should try to drink from your ! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit --------- fast! Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE 1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. 2) add a few drops of glycerine 3) wait 3-4 min. 4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. ** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] ** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... ** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it that way. HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for a bomb without dying of boredom. Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment. HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. PEROXYACETONE PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSITIVE. MATERIALS- 4ML ACETONE 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID 150MM TEST TUBE Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away) . I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) GENERATING CHLORINE GAS This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you shouild know what you're doing before you try this... Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). CHLORINE + TURPENTINE Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning... GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode. HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... PREPARATION OF OXYGEN Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things to burn better... IODINE Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide. ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) David Richards TRIPWIRES by The Mortician Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. ------------------>+ batery steel || ->- batery wool || / :==:--- <--fuse \ || / ---- spst switch--\ So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the explosive. Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462 BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame) Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby trap. There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise remains the same. What you'll need: 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well) 6 feet of wire or fishing line 5-15 feet of strong string or rope 1 really sick mind. Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 degrees. Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams) bent nails / || ^ slight upward tension # /\ || #/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) # ------!----()------ # trip wire \ / Trunk third nail Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a stump etc). When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing pin). There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two bent nails. A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. || */\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* SPRING BOLT Trip wire With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. Improvised Explosives Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS. This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use them. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very few mis haps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil. Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T. Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec.. Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity. This explosive is composed of the following: potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. for the sodium salt based explosive. Addendum 4/12/91: It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. ASSORTED NASTIES: Sweet-Oil In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure that I did some damage. Slow Air Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky. Vanishing Paint Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. Loose Wheel Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. Dual Neutral This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears. Un-Midaser Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you work the more you fuck them over. LAUGHING GAS Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a bottle. A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag (duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death. PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehension. They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell. There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape. The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe. The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer. To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires. Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap. Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber. A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use. Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their fucking school to kingdom scum! Astrolite The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. Astrolite G "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Astrolite A/A-1-5 Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. Misc. info You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. Sodium Chlorate Formulas Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder 65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top. Rocket Fuel 6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) 50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand), 10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. Incendiary Mixture 55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur Impact Mixture 50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. Filler explosive 85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder Nitromethane formulas I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: 1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. Nitromethane 'solid' explosives 2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance. MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent! Materials: 1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! 1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up. 2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord 3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) 4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact. 5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! 6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. 7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! All credits go to their respective creators.. -= Exodus =- Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger (With some little known facts -RF-) MARIJUANA Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per cent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the Uniited States. It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama, occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom fall below last year's level. Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about 20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or "successful." GROW IT! There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you. OUTDOORS Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75 degrees. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat. Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun- tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through. The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns. GENERAL GROWING INFO Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature. Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well. SEEDS To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days. SPROUTING The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock. INDOOR GROWING Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for eavh plant. The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however, the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.) At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of light. This gives you more females. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types). HARVESTING AND DRYING The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out. TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than usual. If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering also, it may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a gram.) To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions. Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens. PLANT PROBLEM CHART Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools. SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer. Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency - turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate. cast. Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency - cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content. Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency - become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash. turning dark grey. Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add tissue. any plant food containing boron. Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food containing zinc. Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency - possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it. EXTRA SECTION: BAD WEED/GOOD WEED Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it. There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocre grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing home about. EASES 1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product, however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess... 2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency. 3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt. 4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing alchol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon. SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN: Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin. One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed in the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds, stems). It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is easily washable. Marygin is available from: P.O. Box 5827 Tuscon, Arizona 85703 $5.00 GRASS Edmund Scientific Company 555 Edscorp Building Barrington, New Jersy 08007 Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting plants for a mere $14.95. Soil test kits for PH - $2.40 Al test - $9.95 Soil thermometer - $2.75 Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for $15.75. Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75. And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming, etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's no fun like experimenting - $2.00 SUGGESTED READING THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake Straight Arrow Publishing - $3.50 625 Third Street San Francisco, California FLASH P.O.Box 16098 San Fransicso, California 94116 Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series. And now those little known facts.. What Big Brother Doesn't Want You To Know. (all facts can be verified) 1. Cannabis and hemp are the same. "Marijuana" was the Mexican name given to cannabis. 2. Cannabis was first cultivated in China around 4000 B.C. 3. The original drafts of the Declaration of Independence were written on hemp paper. 4. One acre of hemp will produce as much paper as four acres of trees. 5. Hemp is a source of fiber for cloth and cordage for rope. The hemp fiber is located inside the long stem of the plant. 6. George Washington and Thomas Jefferson grew hemp. Washington, our first president, declared," Make the most of the hemp seed. Sow it everywhere." 7. Hemp seed is nature's perfect food. the oil from hemp seeds has the highest percentage of essential fatty acids and the lowest percentage of saturated fats. 8. Sterilized hemp seed is commonly sold as bird seed. 9. Rolling papers, like Bambu, are made from hemp paper. 10. In 1937, the Marijuana Tax Stamp Act Prohibited the use, sale, and cultivation of hemp/marijuana in the United States. 11. Five years later, during World War II, the U.S. Department of Agriculture released the film, " HEMP FOR VICTORY, " which encouraged American farmers to grow hemp for the war effort. 12. Hemp is cultivated all over the world. Today, China, Korea, Italy, Hungary, Russia, and France are among the countries that grow hemp for fiber, paper, and other products. 13. Cannabis is classified as a schedule 1 drug by the Food and Drug Administration. Designated as a narcotic, it cannot be prescribed by physicians to patients. 14. In 1988, the DEA's own administrative law judge concluded that "Marijuana is one of the safest, therapeutically active substances known to man." 15. Cannabis can be used as a medicine to treat nausea, pain, and muscle spasms. It alleviates symptoms of glaucoma, multiple sclerosis, AIDS, migraines, and other debilitating ailments. 16. Thirty-five states have passed legislation permitting medical use of marijuana. 17. Twelve Americans receive prescribed marijuana from the U.S. government. 18. More than 400,000 Americans are arrested each year on marijuana charges. 19. More than 400,000 Americans die from diseases related to cigarette smoking each year. More than 150.000 Americans die of alcohol abuse each year. But in 10,000 years of usage, NO ONE has EVER died from marijuana. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Yummy Marihuana Recipes courtesy of Exodus Acapulco Green -------------- 3 ripe avocados 1/2 cup chopped onions 2 teaspoons chili powder 3 tablespoons wine vinegar 1/2 cup chopped marahuana (grass) Mix the vinegar, grass, and chili powder together and let the mixture stand for one hour. Then add avocados and onions and mash it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip. Pot Soup -------- 1 can condensed beef broth 3 tablespoons grass 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1/2 can water 3 tablespoons chopped watercress Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Place in a refrigerator for two to three hours, reheat, and serve. Pork and Beans and Pot ---------------------- 1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans 1/2 cup grass 4 slices bacon 1/2 cup light molasses 1/2 teaspoon hickory salt 3 pineapple rings Mix together in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon, bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes. Serves about six. The Meat Ball ------------- 1 lb. hamburger 1/4 cup chopped onions 1 can cream of mushroom soup 1/4 cup bread crumbs 3 tablespoons grass 3 tablespoons India relish Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying pan and drain. Place in a casserole with soup and 1/2 cup water, cover and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people. Spaghetti Sauce --------------- 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup chopped onions 1/2 cup chopped grass 1 pinch pepper 1 can (6 oz.) water 1/2 clove minced garlic 1 bay leaf 1 pinch thyme 1/2 teaspoon salt Mix in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two hours. Serve over spaghetti. Pot Loaf -------- 1 packet onion soup mix 1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes 1/2 cup chopped grass 2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey 1 egg 4 slices bread, crumbled Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for one hour in 400-degree oven. Serves about six. Chili Bean Pot -------------- 2 lbs. pinto beans 1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections 2 cups red wine 4 tablespoons chili powder 1/2 clove garlic 1 cup chopped grass 1/2 cup mushrooms Soak beans overnight in water. In a lagre pot pour boiling water over beans and simmer for at least an hour, adding more water to keep beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to simmer for another three hours. Salt to taste. Serves about ten. Bird Stuffing ------------- 5 cups rye bread crumbs 2 tablespoons poultry seasoning 1/2 cup each of raisins and almonds 1/2 cup celery 1/3 cup chopped onions 3 tablespoons melted butter 1/2 cup chopped grass 2 tablespoons red wine Mix it all together, and then stuff it in. Apple Pot --------- 4 apples (cored) 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup water 4 cherries 1/3 cup chopped grass 2 tablespoons cinnamon Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water. Stuff cores with this paste. Sprinkle apples with cinnamon, and top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350 degrees. Pot Brownies ------------ 1/2 cup flour 3 tablespoons shortening 2 tablespoons honey 1 egg (beaten) 1 tablespoon water 1/2 cup grass pinch of salt 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons corn syrup 1 square melted chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup chopped nuts Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix shortening, sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend in chocolate and other ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20 minutes ate 350 degrees. Banana Bread ------------ 1/2 cup shortening 2 eggs 1 teaspoon lemon juice 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup sugar 1 cup mashed bananas 2 cups sifted flour 1/2 cup chopped grass 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped nuts Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture. Seperately mix bananas with lemon juice and add to the first mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix all ingredients together. Bake for 1 1/4 hours at 375 degrees. Sesame Seed Cookies ------------------- 3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds 3 tablespoons ground almonds 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1/4 cup honey 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 oz. grass Toast the grass until slightly brown and then crush it in a mortar. Mix crushed grass with all other ingredients, in a skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt butter. Allow it to cook. When cool, roll mixture into little balls and dip them into the sesame seeds. If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot is being grown, here's one of the greatest recipes you can try. Pick a medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup of drawn butter, add salt, and eat. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
LSD courtesy of Exodus I think, of all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is the strangest. It is the most recent major drug to come to life in the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's get to the good stuff: How to make it in your kitchen!!) 1) Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian wood rose seeds. 2) In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days. 3) Filter the solution through a tight screen. 4) Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry. 5) For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol. 6) Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1." 7) Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days. 8) Filter and throw away the mush. 9) Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1." 10) Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate. 11) When all of the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be scraped up and put into capsules. 30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip 15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating their seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds from a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can be ordered directly from: Chong's Nursery and Flowers P.O. Box 2154 Honolulu, Hawaii LSD DOSAGES ----------- The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid is available and what medium of ingestion is used. Chemically, the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If you're chemically minded or making your own acid, then computing the number of micrograms is very important. Usually between 500 and 800 mics is plenty for an 8 hour trip, depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have heard of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only extremely dangerous, it is extremely wasteful. LSD comes packaged in many different forms. The most common are listed below: 1) The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals one trip. 2) Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid is cut with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or strychnine. Also note dosage. 3) Small white or colored tablets have been known to contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible to tell potency, without asking. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Bananas courtesy of Exodus Believe it or not, bananas do contain a small quantity of _Musa Sapientum bananadine_, which is a mild, short-lasting psychedelic. There are much easier ways of getting high, but the great advantage to this method is that bananas are legal. 1) Obtain 15 lbs. of ripe yellow bananas. 2) Peel all 15 lbs. and eat the fruit. Save the peels. 3) With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peels and save the scraped material. 4) Put all of the scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for three to four hours until it has attained a solid paste consistency. 5) Spread this paste on cookie sheets, and dry in an over for about 20 minutes to a half hour. This will result in a fine black powder. Makes about one pound of bananadine powder. Ususally one will feel the effects of bananadine after smoking three or four cigarettes. Table of Weights Pounds Ounces Grams Kilos 1 16 453.6 0.4536 0.0625 1 28.35 0.0283 0.0352 1 0.001 2.205 35.27 1,000 1 Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Peanuts Orig. by the Jolly Roger Try this sometime when you are bored! 1) Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!) 2) Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells. 3) Eat the nuts. 4) Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Weird Drugs by the Jolly Roger Bananas: 1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas 2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings 3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife. 4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water. 5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste considtency. 6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in ofen for about 20 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually one will feel the effects after smoking three to four cigarettes. Cough syrup: mix robitussion a-c with an equal amount of ginger ale and drink. The effect are sedation and euphoria. Never underestimate the effects of any drug! You can od on cough syrup! Toads: 1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best kind are tree toads. 2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately. 3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator four four to five days, or until the skins are brittle. 4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad taste you can mix it with a more fragrent smoking medium. Nutmeg: 1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old grinder. 2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and pulverize with a pestle. 3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 grams. A larger dose may produce excessive thirst,anxiety,and rapid hart beat, but hallucinations are rare. Peanuts: 1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted) 2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells. 3. Eat the nuts. 4. Grind up the skins and smoke them. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). - Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement! - Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.) - Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. Plastic deforms and dilutes into gas. The final result is much harder to inject into the engine, possibly causing valve replacement. - Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe. - Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... - Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. - Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this: ÚÄÄ¿ (Revised ill. 4.14) ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ÚÙ ³ À¿ ÀÄÄÙ Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!) Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14. I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----Ex. How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter and then put it directly underneath his car door handle. Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts. Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter. This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard. Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.) Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of an effective note: "don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath. Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are: 1) 4 aa batteries 2) 1 9-volt battery 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack) 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80) 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-volt battery connector Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively. Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay. Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80). Your kit is now complete! ---------><--------- I (CONTACTS) I I I I - (BATTERY) I --- I I I (COIL) I ------///////------- /----------- / I / I / I (SWITCH) I I I I I --- (BATTERY) I - ( PACK ) I --- I I I I ---- ----- I I * (SOLAR IGNITOR) ---------RFLAGG--------- |
-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]----- AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK II..... Courtesy of Exodus This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell of the best places to strike and kill an enemy... When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are: 1. The knife edge of your hands. 2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle. 3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger. 4. The heel of your hand. 5. Your boot 6. Elbows 7. Knees 8. and Teeth. Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength. At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has two purposes. 1. To frighten and confuse your enemy. 2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover them now: Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion. Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the bone up into the brain causing death. Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of minutes. Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down, kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again. Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object. Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme pain, and unconciosness. Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause internal bleeding in the brain. Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee hard, and he'll buckle over very fast. Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge of your hand can cause death. There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should work best for the average person. This is meant only as information and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl. Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger. Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend. (You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.) Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
Nicotine by the Jolly Roger Nicotine is an abundant poison. Easily found in tobacco products, in concentrated form a few drops can quickly kill someone. Here is how to concentrate it: First get a can of chewing tobacco or pipe tobacco. Remove the contents and soak in water overnight in a jar (about 2/3 cup of water will do...). In the morning, strain into another jar the mixture through a porous towel. Then wrap the towel around the ball of tobacco and squeeze it until all of the liquid is in the jar. Throw away the tobacco--you will not need it anymore. Now you have two options. I recommend the first. It makes the nicotine more potent. 1) Allow to evaporate until a sticky syrup results in the jar. This is almost pure nicotine (hell, it is pure enough for sure!). 2) Heat over low flame until water is evaporated and a thick sticky syrup results (I don't know how long it takes... shouldn't take too long, though.). Now all you have to do, when you wish to use it, is to put a few drops in a medicine dropper or equivalent, and slip about 4 or 5 drops into the victim's coffee. Coffee is recommended since it will disguise the taste. Since nicotine is a drug, the victim should get quite a buzz before they turn their toes up to the daisies, so to speak. Note: If the syrup is too sticky, dilute it with a few drops of water. And while you are at it, better add an extra drop to the coffee just to be sure! Brought to you by -//razorbladez- |
ActionScript [AS1/AS2]
Frame 1stop();Instance of Symbol 236 MovieClip in Frame 1on (press) { getURL ("http://www.razorbladez.tk"); }Instance of Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] in Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { _targetInstanceName = "InstanceName_1"; horizontal = false; }Frame 2stop();Frame 3stop();Frame 4stop();Frame 5stop();Instance of Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] in Frame 6//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { _targetInstanceName = "InstanceName_1"; horizontal = false; } onClipEvent (load) { getEnabled(); }Instance of Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] in Frame 7//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { _targetInstanceName = "InstanceName_1"; horizontal = false; }Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 1var component = _parent.controller; component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "selection"); stop();Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 2component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc2, "selectionDisabled"); stop();Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 3component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc3, "selectionUnfocused"); stop();Symbol 4 MovieClip [FListItemSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 10 function FListItemClass() { this.init(); } FListItemClass.prototype = new FSelectableItemClass(); Object.registerClass("FListItemSymbol", FListItemClass); #endinitclipSymbol 7 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent; component.registerSkinElement(track_mc, "scrollTrack");Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 5 FScrollBarClass = function () { if (this._height == 4) { return(undefined); } this.init(); this.minPos = (this.maxPos = (this.pageSize = (this.largeScroll = 0))); this.smallScroll = 1; this.width = (this.horizontal ? (this._width) : (this._height)); this._xscale = (this._yscale = 100); this.setScrollPosition(0); this.tabEnabled = false; if (this._targetInstanceName.length > 0) { this.setScrollTarget(this._parent[this._targetInstanceName]); } this.tabChildren = false; this.setSize(this.width); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); FScrollBarClass.prototype.setHorizontal = function (flag) { if (this.horizontal && (!flag)) { this._xscale = 100; this._rotation = 0; } else if (flag && (!this.horizontal)) { this._xscale = -100; this._rotation = -90; } this.horizontal = flag; }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setScrollProperties = function (pSize, mnPos, mxPos) { if (!this.enable) { return(undefined); } this.pageSize = pSize; this.minPos = Math.max(mnPos, 0); this.maxPos = Math.max(mxPos, 0); this.scrollPosition = Math.max(this.minPos, this.scrollPosition); this.scrollPosition = Math.min(this.maxPos, this.scrollPosition); if ((this.maxPos - this.minPos) <= 0) { this.scrollThumb_mc.removeMovieClip(); this.upArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.downArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.downArrow_mc.onPress = (this.downArrow_mc.onRelease = (this.downArrow_mc.onDragOut = null)); this.upArrow_mc.onPress = (this.upArrow_mc.onRelease = (this.upArrow_mc.onDragOut = null)); this.scrollTrack_mc.onPress = (this.scrollTrack_mc.onRelease = null); this.scrollTrack_mc.onDragOut = (this.scrollTrack_mc.onRollOut = null); this.scrollTrack_mc.useHandCursor = false; } else { var tmp = this.getScrollPosition(); this.upArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.downArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.upArrow_mc.onPress = (this.upArrow_mc.onDragOver = this.startUpScroller); this.upArrow_mc.onRelease = (this.upArrow_mc.onDragOut = this.stopScrolling); this.downArrow_mc.onPress = (this.downArrow_mc.onDragOver = this.startDownScroller); this.downArrow_mc.onRelease = (this.downArrow_mc.onDragOut = this.stopScrolling); this.scrollTrack_mc.onPress = (this.scrollTrack_mc.onDragOver = this.startTrackScroller); this.scrollTrack_mc.onRelease = this.stopScrolling; this.scrollTrack_mc.onDragOut = this.stopScrolling; this.scrollTrack_mc.onRollOut = this.stopScrolling; this.scrollTrack_mc.useHandCursor = false; this.attachMovie("ScrollThumb", "scrollThumb_mc", 3); this.scrollThumb_mc._x = 0; this.scrollThumb_mc._y = this.upArrow_mc._height; this.scrollThumb_mc.onPress = this.startDragThumb; this.scrollThumb_mc.controller = this; this.scrollThumb_mc.onRelease = (this.scrollThumb_mc.onReleaseOutside = this.stopDragThumb); this.scrollThumb_mc.useHandCursor = false; this.thumbHeight = (this.pageSize / ((this.maxPos - this.minPos) + this.pageSize)) * this.trackSize; this.thumbMid_mc = this.scrollThumb_mc.mc_sliderMid; this.thumbTop_mc = this.scrollThumb_mc.mc_sliderTop; this.thumbBot_mc = this.scrollThumb_mc.mc_sliderBot; this.thumbHeight = Math.max(this.thumbHeight, 6); this.midHeight = (this.thumbHeight - this.thumbTop_mc._height) - this.thumbBot_mc._height; this.thumbMid_mc._yScale = (this.midHeight * 100) / this.thumbMid_mc._height; this.thumbMid_mc._y = this.thumbTop_mc._height; this.thumbBot_mc._y = this.thumbTop_mc._height + this.midHeight; this.scrollTop = this.scrollThumb_mc._y; this.trackHeight = this.trackSize - this.thumbHeight; this.scrollBot = this.trackHeight + this.scrollTop; tmp = Math.min(tmp, this.maxPos); this.setScrollPosition(Math.max(tmp, this.minPos)); } }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.getScrollPosition = function () { return(this.scrollPosition); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setScrollPosition = function (pos) { this.scrollPosition = pos; if (this.scrollThumb_mc != undefined) { pos = Math.min(pos, this.maxPos); pos = Math.max(pos, this.minPos); } this.scrollThumb_mc._y = (((pos - this.minPos) * this.trackHeight) / (this.maxPos - this.minPos)) + this.scrollTop; this.executeCallBack(); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setLargeScroll = function (lScroll) { this.largeScroll = lScroll; }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setSmallScroll = function (sScroll) { this.smallScroll = sScroll; }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { var wasEnabled = this.enable; if (enabledFlag && (!wasEnabled)) { this.enable = enabledFlag; if (this.textField != undefined) { this.setScrollTarget(this.textField); } else { this.setScrollProperties(this.pageSize, this.cachedMinPos, this.cachedMaxPos); this.setScrollPosition(this.cachedPos); } this.clickFilter = undefined; } else if ((!enabledFlag) && (wasEnabled)) { this.textField.removeListener(this); this.cachedPos = this.getScrollPosition(); this.cachedMinPos = this.minPos; this.cachedMaxPos = this.maxPos; if (this.clickFilter == undefined) { this.setScrollProperties(this.pageSize, 0, 0); } else { this.clickFilter = true; } this.enable = enabledFlag; } }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setSize = function (hgt) { if (this._height == 1) { return(undefined); } this.width = hgt; this.scrollTrack_mc._yscale = 100; this.scrollTrack_mc._yscale = (100 * this.width) / this.scrollTrack_mc._height; if (this.upArrow_mc == undefined) { this.attachMovie("UpArrow", "upArrow_mc", 1); this.attachMovie("DownArrow", "downArrow_mc", 2); this.downArrow_mc.controller = (this.upArrow_mc.controller = this); this.upArrow_mc.useHandCursor = (this.downArrow_mc.useHandCursor = false); this.upArrow_mc._x = (this.upArrow_mc._y = 0); this.downArrow_mc._x = 0; } this.scrollTrack_mc.controller = this; this.downArrow_mc._y = this.width - this.downArrow_mc._height; this.trackSize = this.width - (2 * this.downArrow_mc._height); if (this.textField != undefined) { this.onTextChanged(); } else { this.setScrollProperties(this.pageSize, this.minPos, this.maxPos); } }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.scrollIt = function (inc, mode) { var delt = this.smallScroll; if (inc != "one") { delt = ((this.largeScroll == 0) ? (this.pageSize) : (this.largeScroll)); } var newPos = (this.getScrollPosition() + (mode * delt)); if (newPos > this.maxPos) { newPos = this.maxPos; } else if (newPos < this.minPos) { newPos = this.minPos; } this.setScrollPosition(newPos); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.startDragThumb = function () { this.lastY = this._ymouse; this.onMouseMove = this.controller.dragThumb; }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.dragThumb = function () { this.scrollMove = this._ymouse - this.lastY; this.scrollMove = this.scrollMove + this._y; if (this.scrollMove < this.controller.scrollTop) { this.scrollMove = this.controller.scrollTop; } else if (this.scrollMove > this.controller.scrollBot) { this.scrollMove = this.controller.scrollBot; } this._y = this.scrollMove; var c = this.controller; c.scrollPosition = Math.round(((c.maxPos - c.minPos) * (this._y - c.scrollTop)) / c.trackHeight) + c.minPos; this.controller.isScrolling = true; updateAfterEvent(); this.controller.executeCallBack(); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.stopDragThumb = function () { this.controller.isScrolling = false; this.onMouseMove = null; }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.startTrackScroller = function () { this.controller.trackScroller(); this.controller.scrolling = setInterval(this.controller, "scrollInterval", 500, "page", -1); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.scrollInterval = function (inc, mode) { clearInterval(this.scrolling); if (inc == "page") { this.trackScroller(); } else { this.scrollIt(inc, mode); } this.scrolling = setInterval(this, "scrollInterval", 35, inc, mode); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.trackScroller = function () { if ((this.scrollThumb_mc._y + this.thumbHeight) < this._ymouse) { this.scrollIt("page", 1); } else if (this.scrollThumb_mc._y > this._ymouse) { this.scrollIt("page", -1); } }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.stopScrolling = function () { this.controller.downArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.controller.upArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(1); clearInterval(this.controller.scrolling); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.startUpScroller = function () { this.controller.upArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.controller.scrollIt("one", -1); this.controller.scrolling = setInterval(this.controller, "scrollInterval", 500, "one", -1); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.startDownScroller = function () { this.controller.downArrow_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.controller.scrollIt("one", 1); this.controller.scrolling = setInterval(this.controller, "scrollInterval", 500, "one", 1); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.setScrollTarget = function (tF) { if (tF == undefined) { this.textField.removeListener(this); delete this.textField[(this.horizontal ? "hScroller" : "vScroller")]; if ((this.textField.hScroller != undefined) && (this.textField.vScroller != undefined)) { this.textField.unwatch("text"); this.textField.unwatch("htmltext"); } } this.textField = undefined; if (!(tF instanceof TextField)) { return(undefined); } this.textField = tF; this.textField[(this.horizontal ? "hScroller" : "vScroller")] = this; this.onTextChanged(); this.onChanged = function () { this.onTextChanged(); }; this.onScroller = function () { if (!this.isScrolling) { if (!this.horizontal) { this.setScrollPosition(this.textField.scroll); } else { this.setScrollPosition(this.textField.hscroll); } } }; this.textField.addListener(this); this.textField.watch("text", this.callback); this.textField.watch("htmlText", this.callback); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.callback = function (prop, oldVal, newVal) { clearInterval(this.hScroller.synchScroll); clearInterval(this.vScroller.synchScroll); this.hScroller.synchScroll = setInterval(this.hScroller, "onTextChanged", 50); this.vScroller.synchScroll = setInterval(this.vScroller, "onTextChanged", 50); return(newVal); }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.onTextChanged = function () { if ((!this.enable) || (this.textField == undefined)) { return(undefined); } clearInterval(this.synchScroll); if (this.horizontal) { var pos = this.textField.hscroll; this.setScrollProperties(this.textField._width, 0, this.textField.maxhscroll); this.setScrollPosition(Math.min(pos, this.textField.maxhscroll)); } else { var pos = this.textField.scroll; var pageSize = (this.textField.bottomScroll - this.textField.scroll); this.setScrollProperties(pageSize, 1, this.textField.maxscroll); this.setScrollPosition(Math.min(pos, this.textField.maxscroll)); } }; FScrollBarClass.prototype.executeCallBack = function () { if (this.textField == undefined) { super.executeCallBack(); } else if (this.horizontal) { this.textField.hscroll = this.getScrollPosition(); } else { this.textField.scroll = this.getScrollPosition(); } }; Object.registerClass("FScrollBarSymbol", FScrollBarClass); #endinitclipSymbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 1 _global.DataProviderClass = function () { this.init(); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.init = function () { this.items = new Array(); this.uniqueID = 0; this.views = new Array(); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.addView = function (viewRef) { this.views.push(viewRef); var eventObj = {event:"updateAll"}; viewRef.modelChanged(eventObj); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.addItemAt = function (index, value) { if (index < this.getLength()) { this.items.splice(index, 0, "tmp"); } this.items[index] = new Object(); if (typeof(value) == "object") { this.items[index] = value; } else { this.items[index].label = value; } this.items[index].__ID__ = this.uniqueID++; var eventObj = {event:"addRows", firstRow:index, lastRow:index}; this.updateViews(eventObj); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.addItem = function (value) { this.addItemAt(this.getLength(), value); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.removeItemAt = function (index) { var tmpItm = this.items[index]; this.items.splice(index, 1); var eventObj = {event:"deleteRows", firstRow:index, lastRow:index}; this.updateViews(eventObj); return(tmpItm); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.removeAll = function () { this.items = new Array(); this.updateViews({event:"deleteRows", firstRow:0, lastRow:this.getLength() - 1}); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.replaceItemAt = function (index, itemObj) { if ((index < 0) || (index >= this.getLength())) { return(undefined); } var tmpID = this.getItemID(index); if (typeof(itemObj) == "object") { this.items[index] = itemObj; } else { this.items[index].label = itemObj; } this.items[index].__ID__ = tmpID; this.updateViews({event:"updateRows", firstRow:index, lastRow:index}); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.getLength = function () { return(this.items.length); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.getItemAt = function (index) { return(this.items[index]); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.getItemID = function (index) { return(this.items[index].__ID__); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.sortItemsBy = function (fieldName, order) { this.items.sortOn(fieldName); if (order == "DESC") { this.items.reverse(); } this.updateViews({event:"sort"}); }; DataProviderClass.prototype.updateViews = function (eventObj) { var i = 0; while (i < this.views.length) { this.views[i].modelChanged(eventObj); i++; } }; #endinitclipSymbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 8 function FSelectableItemClass() { this.init(); } FSelectableItemClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); FSelectableItemClass.prototype.init = function () { if (this._name != "itemAsset") { this.highlighted = false; this.layoutContent(100); } }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.drawItem = function (itmObj, selected) { this.displayContent(itmObj, selected); if ((this.highlighted != selected) || ((this.controller.focused != this.oldFocus) && (selected))) { this.setHighlighted(selected); } this.oldFocus = this.controller.focused; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setSize = function (width, height) { var LOWEST_DEPTH = -16384; this.width = width; this.layoutContent(width); this.attachMovie("FHighlightSymbol", "highlight_mc", LOWEST_DEPTH); this.highlight_mc._x = 0.5; this.highlight_mc._width = width - 0.5; this.highlight_mc._height = height; this.highlight_mc.controller = this; this.highlight_mc._alpha = 0; this.highlight_mc.trackAsMenu = true; this.highlight_mc.onPress = function () { if (this.controller.enable) { this.controller.controller.clickHandler(this.controller.itemNum); } }; this.highlight_mc.onDragOver = function () { if (this.controller.controller.focused) { this.onPress(); } }; this.highlight_mc.useHandCursor = false; this.highlight_mc.trackAsMenu = true; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.enable = enabledFlag; this.fLabel_mc.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.highlight_mc.gotoAndStop((enabledFlag ? "unfocused" : "disabled")); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.layoutContent = function (width) { this.attachMovie("FLabelSymbol", "fLabel_mc", 2, {hostComponent:this.controller}); this.fLabel_mc._x = 2; this.fLabel_mc._y = 0; this.fLabel_mc.setSize(width - 2); this.fLabel_mc.labelField.selectable = false; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.displayContent = function (itmObj, selected) { var tmpLabel = ""; if (itmObj.label != undefined) { tmpLabel = itmObj.label; } else if (typeof(itmObj) == "object") { for (var i in itmObj) { if (i != "__ID__") { tmpLabel = (itmObj[i] + ", ") + tmpLabel; } } tmpLabel = tmpLabel.substring(0, tmpLabel.length - 2); } else { tmpLabel = itmObj; } if (this.fLabel_mc.labelField.text != tmpLabel) { this.fLabel_mc.setLabel(tmpLabel); } var clr = (selected ? (this.controller.styleTable.textSelected.value) : (this.controller.styleTable.textColor.value)); if (clr == undefined) { clr = (selected ? 16777215 : 0); } this.fLabel_mc.setColor(clr); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getItemIndex = function () { return(this.controller.getScrollPosition() + this.itemNum); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getItemModel = function () { return(this.controller.getItemAt(this.getItemIndex())); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getHostDataProvider = function () { return(this.controller.dataProvider); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setHighlighted = function (flag) { fade = this.controller.styleTable.fadeRate.value; if (((fade == undefined) || (fade == 0)) || (!flag)) { this.highlight_mc._alpha = (flag ? 100 : 0); delete this.onEnterFrame; } else { this.fadeN = fade; this.fadeX = 1; this.highLight_mc._alpha = 20; this.onEnterFrame = function () { this.highLight_mc._alpha = (60 * Math.sqrt((this.fadeX++) / this.fadeN)) + 40; if (this.fadeX > this.fadeN) { delete this.onEnterFrame; } }; } this.highlighted = flag; }; #endinitclipSymbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 4 function FSelectableListClass() { this.init(); } FSelectableListClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); FSelectableListClass.prototype.init = function () { super.init(); this.enable = true; this.selected = new Array(); this.topDisplayed = (this.numDisplayed = 0); this.lastSelected = 0; this.tabChildren = false; if (this._name != undefined) { this.dataProvider = new DataProviderClass(); this.dataProvider.addView(this); } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.addItemAt = function (index, label, data) { if ((index < 0) || (!this.enable)) { return(undefined); } this.dataProvider.addItemAt(index, {label:label, data:data}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.addItem = function (label, data) { if (!this.enable) { return(undefined); } this.dataProvider.addItem({label:label, data:data}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.removeItemAt = function (index) { this.selectHolder = this.getSelectedIndex(); var item = this.getItemAt(index); this.dataProvider.removeItemAt(index); return(item); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.removeAll = function () { this.dataProvider.removeAll(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.replaceItemAt = function (index, newLabel, newData) { this.dataProvider.replaceItemAt(index, {label:newLabel, data:newData}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.sortItemsBy = function (fieldName, order) { this.lastSelID = this.dataProvider.getItemID(this.lastSelected); this.dataProvider.sortItemsBy(fieldName, order); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getLength = function () { return(this.dataProvider.getLength()); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getSelectedIndex = function () { for (var uniqueID in this.selected) { var tmpInd = this.selected[uniqueID].sIndex; if (tmpInd != undefined) { return(tmpInd); } } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getSelectedItem = function () { return(this.getItemAt(this.getSelectedIndex())); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getItemAt = function (index) { return(this.dataProvider.getItemAt(index)); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enable); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getValue = function () { var item = this.getSelectedItem(); return(((item.data == undefined) ? (item.label) : (item.data))); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setSelectedIndex = function (index, flag) { if (((index >= 0) && (index < this.getLength())) && (this.enable)) { this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(index, true); this.lastSelected = index; this.invalidate("updateControl"); if (flag != false) { this.executeCallBack(); } } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setDataProvider = function (obj) { this.setScrollPosition(0); this.clearSelected(); if (obj instanceof Array) { this.dataProvider = new DataProviderClass(); var i = 0; while (i < obj.length) { var value = ((typeof(obj[i]) == "string") ? ({label:obj[i]}) : (obj[i])); this.dataProvider.addItem(value); i++; } } else { this.dataProvider = obj; } this.dataProvider.addView(this); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setItemSymbol = function (linkID) { this.tmpPos = this.getScrollPosition(); this.itemSymbol = linkID; this.invalidate("setSize"); this.setScrollPosition(this.tmpPos); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.cleanUI(); super.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.enable = enabledFlag; this.boundingBox_mc.gotoAndStop((this.enable ? "enabled" : "disabled")); var limit = Math.min(this.numDisplayed, this.getLength()); var i = 0; while (i < limit) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].setEnabled(this.enable); i++; } if (this.enable) { this.invalidate("updateControl"); } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.updateControl = function () { var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(this.topDisplayed + i), this.isSelected(this.topDisplayed + i)); i++; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { super.setSize(w, h); this.boundingBox_mc._xscale = (this.boundingBox_mc._yscale = 100); this.boundingBox_mc._xscale = (this.width * 100) / this.boundingBox_mc._width; this.boundingBox_mc._yscale = (this.height * 100) / this.boundingBox_mc._height; var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc.attachMovie(this.itemSymbol, ("fListItem" + i) + "_mc", 10 + i, {controller:this, itemNum:i}); var item_mc = this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"]; var offset = ((this.scrollOffset == undefined) ? 0 : (this.scrollOffset)); item_mc.setSize(this.width - offset, this.itmHgt); item_mc._y = (this.itmHgt - 2) * i; i++; } this.updateControl(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.modelChanged = function (eventObj) { var firstRow = eventObj.firstRow; var lastRow = eventObj.lastRow; var event = eventObj.event; if (event == "addRows") { for (var i in this.selected) { if ((this.selected[i].sIndex != undefined) && (this.selected[i].sIndex >= firstRow)) { this.selected[i].sIndex = this.selected[i].sIndex + ((lastRow - firstRow) + 1); this.setSelectedIndex(this.selected[i].sIndex, false); } } } else if (event == "deleteRows") { if (firstRow == lastRow) { var index = firstRow; if (this.selectHolder == index) { this.selectionDeleted = true; } if (((this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed) >= this.getLength()) && (this.topDisplayed > 0)) { this.topDisplayed--; if (this.selectionDeleted && ((index - 1) >= 0)) { this.setSelectedIndex(index - 1, false); } } else if (this.selectionDeleted) { var len = this.getLength(); if (((index == (len - 1)) && (len > 1)) || (index > (len / 2))) { this.setSelectedIndex(index - 1, false); } else { this.setSelectedIndex(index, false); } } for (var i in this.selected) { if (this.selected[i].sIndex > firstRow) { this.selected[i].sIndex--; } } } else { this.clearSelected(); this.topDisplayed = 0; } } else if (event == "sort") { var len = this.getLength(); var i = 0; while (i < len) { if (this.isSelected(i)) { var id = this.dataProvider.getItemID(i); if (id == this.lastSelID) { this.lastSelected = i; } this.selected[String(id)].sIndex = i; } i++; } } this.invalidate("updateControl"); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.measureItmHgt = function () { this.attachMovie(this.itemSymbol, "tmpItem_mc", 0, {controller:this}); this.tmpItem_mc.drawItem({label:"Sizer: PjtTopg"}, false); this.itmHgt = this.tmpItem_mc._height; this.tmpItem_mc.removeMovieClip(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.selectItem = function (index, selectedFlag) { if (selectedFlag && (!this.isSelected(index))) { this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))] = {sIndex:index}; } else if (!selectedFlag) { delete this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))]; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.isSelected = function (index) { return(this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))].sIndex != undefined); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.clearSelected = function () { for (var uniqueID in this.selected) { var index = this.selected[uniqueID].sIndex; if (((index != undefined) && (this.topDisplayed <= index)) && (index < (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (index - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), false); } } delete this.selected; this.selected = new Array(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.selectionHandler = function (itemNum) { var tmpInd = (this.topDisplayed + itemNum); if (this.getItemAt(tmpInd == undefined)) { this.changeFlag = false; return(undefined); } this.changeFlag = true; this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(tmpInd, true); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(tmpInd), this.isSelected(tmpInd)); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.moveSelBy = function (incr) { var itmNum = this.getSelectedIndex(); var newItm = (itmNum + incr); newItm = Math.max(0, newItm); newItm = Math.min(this.getLength() - 1, newItm); if (newItm == itmNum) { return(undefined); } if ((itmNum < this.topDisplayed) || (itmNum >= (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.setScrollPosition(itmNum); } if ((newItm >= (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed)) || (newItm < this.topDisplayed)) { this.setScrollPosition(this.topDisplayed + incr); } this.selectionHandler(newItm - this.topDisplayed); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.clickHandler = function (itmNum) { this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); if (!this.focused) { this.pressFocus(); } this.selectionHandler(itmNum); this.onMouseUp = this.releaseHandler; }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.releaseHandler = function () { if (this.changeFlag) { this.executeCallBack(); } this.changeFlag = false; this.onMouseUp = undefined; }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { super.myOnSetFocus(); var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].highlight_mc.gotoAndStop("enabled"); i++; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.myOnKillFocus = function () { super.myOnKillFocus(); var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].highlight_mc.gotoAndStop("unfocused"); i++; } }; #endinitclipInstance of Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] "dPAsset" in Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }Instance of Symbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol] "ItemAsset" in Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 7 function FScrollSelectListClass() { this.init(); } FScrollSelectListClass.prototype = new FSelectableListClass(); FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.getScrollPosition = function () { return(this.topDisplayed); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setScrollPosition = function (pos) { if (this.enable) { pos = Math.min(pos, this.getLength() - this.numDisplayed); pos = Math.max(pos, 0); this.scrollBar_mc.setScrollPosition(pos); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setAutoHideScrollBar = function (flag) { this.permaScrollBar = !flag; this.setSize(this.width, this.height); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { super.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.scrollBar_mc.setEnabled(this.enable); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { var pos = this.getScrollPosition(); super.setSize(w, h); if (this.scrollBar_mc != undefined) { this.removed = true; } this.scrollBar_mc = undefined; this.initScrollBar(); this.setScrollPosition(pos); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.modelChanged = function (eventObj) { super.modelChanged(eventObj); this.invalidate("initScrollBar"); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.initScrollBar = function () { if ((!this.permaScrollBar) && (this.getLength() <= this.numDisplayed)) { if (this.removed) { this.scrollBar_mc.removeMovieClip(); this.scrollBar_mc = undefined; this.scrollOffset = undefined; this.invalidate("setSize"); } } else { if (this.scrollBar_mc == undefined) { this.container_mc.attachMovie("FScrollBarSymbol", "scrollBar_mc", 3000, {hostStyle:this.styleTable}); this.scrollBar_mc = this.container_mc.scrollBar_mc; this.scrollBar_mc.setChangeHandler("scrollHandler", this); this.scrollBar_mc.setSize(this.height); this.scrollBar_mc._x = this.width - this.scrollBar_mc._width; this.scrollBar_mc._y = 0; this.scrollBar_mc.setLargeScroll(this.numDisplayed - 1); this.scrollOffset = this.scrollBar_mc._width; this.invalidate("setSize"); } this.scrollBar_mc.setScrollProperties(this.numDisplayed, 0, this.getLength() - this.numDisplayed); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.scrollHandler = function (scrollBar) { var pos = scrollBar.getScrollPosition(); this.topDisplayed = pos; if (this.lastPosition != pos) { this.updateControl(); } this.lastPosition = pos; }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.clickHandler = function (itmNum) { super.clickHandler(itmNum); if ((this.dragScrolling == undefined) && (this.scrollBar_mc != undefined)) { this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", 15); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.releaseHandler = function () { clearInterval(this.dragScrolling); this.dragScrolling = undefined; super.releaseHandler(); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.dragScroll = function () { clearInterval(this.dragScrolling); if (this.container_mc._ymouse < 0) { this.setScrollPosition(this.getScrollPosition() - 1); this.selectionHandler(0); this.scrollInterval = Math.max(25, (-23.8 * (-this.container_mc._ymouse)) + 500); this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", this.scrollInterval); } else if (this.container_mc._ymouse > ((this.itmHgt - 2) * this.numDisplayed)) { this.setScrollPosition(this.getScrollPosition() + 1); this.selectionHandler(this.numDisplayed - 1); this.scrollInterval = Math.max(25, (-23.8 * Math.abs((this.container_mc._ymouse - ((this.itmHgt - 2) * this.numDisplayed)) - 2)) + 500); this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", this.scrollInterval); } else { this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", 15); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.myOnKeyDown = function () { if (this.focused) { this.keyCodes = new Array(40, 38, 34, 33, 36, 35); this.keyIncrs = new Array(1, -1, this.numDisplayed - 1, -(this.numDisplayed - 1), -this.getLength(), this.getLength()); var i = 0; while (i < this.keyCodes.length) { if (Key.isDown(this.keyCodes[i])) { this.moveSelBy(this.keyIncrs[i]); return(undefined); } i++; } this.findInputText(); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.findInputText = function () { var tmpCode = Key.getAscii(); if ((tmpCode >= 33) && (tmpCode <= 126)) { this.findString(String.fromCharCode(tmpCode)); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.findString = function (str) { if (this.getLength() == 0) { return(undefined); } var itemNum = this.getSelectedIndex(); var jump = 0; var i = (itemNum + 1); while (i != itemNum) { var itmStr = this.getItemAt(i).label.substring(0, str.length); if ((str == itmStr) || (str.toUpperCase() == itmStr.toUpperCase())) { var jump = (i - itemNum); break; } if (i >= (this.getLength() - 1)) { i = -1; } i++; } if (jump != 0) { this.moveSelBy(jump); } }; #endinitclipInstance of Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] "scrollBarAsset" in Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { _targetInstanceName = ""; horizontal = false; } onClipEvent (load) { this._width = (this._height = 1); }Instance of Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] "superClassAsset" in Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 1var component = _parent; component.registerSkinElement(boundingBox, "background"); stop();Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 2component.registerSkinElement(boundingBox2, "backgroundDisabled"); stop();Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 9 function FListBoxClass() { this.itemSymbol = "FListItemSymbol"; this.init(); this.permaScrollBar = true; var i = 0; while (i < this.labels.length) { this.addItem(this.labels[i], this.data[i]); i++; } this.boundingBox_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.width = this._width; this.height = this._height; this._yscale = (this._xscale = 100); this.setSize(this.width, this.height); if (this.changeHandler.length > 0) { this.setChangeHandler(this.changeHandler); } } FListBoxClass.prototype = new FScrollSelectListClass(); Object.registerClass("FListBoxSymbol", FListBoxClass); FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectedIndices = function () { var tmpArray = new Array(); for (var i in this.selected) { tmpArray.push(this.selected[i].sIndex); } return(((tmpArray.length > 0) ? (tmpArray) : undefined)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectedItems = function () { var indices = this.getSelectedIndices(); var tmpArray = new Array(); var i = 0; while (i < indices.length) { tmpArray.push(this.getItemAt(indices[i])); i++; } return(((tmpArray.length > 0) ? (tmpArray) : undefined)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectMultiple = function () { return(this.selectMultiple); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getRowCount = function () { return(this.numDisplayed); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSelectedIndices = function (indexArray) { this.clearSelected(); var i = 0; while (i < indexArray.length) { this.selectItem(indexArray[i], true); i++; } this.updateControl(); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSelectMultiple = function (flag) { this.selectMultiple = flag; }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setRowCount = function (count) { var hgt = ((count * (this.itmHgt - 2)) + 2); this.setSize(this.width, hgt); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setWidth = function (wdt) { this.setSize(wdt, this.height); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { if (!this.enable) { return(undefined); } w = Math.max(w, 20); h = Math.max(h, 40); this.container_mc.removeMovieClip(); this.container_mc = this.createEmptyMovieClip("container", 3); this.measureItmHgt(); this.numDisplayed = Math.floor(h / (this.itmHgt - 2)); this.height = (this.numDisplayed * (this.itmHgt - 2)) + 2; super.setSize(w, this.height); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.removeItemAt = function (index) { this.selectHolder = this.getSelectedIndices(); return(super.removeItemAt(index)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.selectionHandler = function (itemNum) { if (this.clickFilter) { var index = (this.topDisplayed + itemNum); if (this.getItemAt(index) == undefined) { this.changeFlag = false; return(undefined); } this.changeFlag = true; if (((!this.selectMultiple) && (!Key.isDown(17))) || ((!Key.isDown(16)) && (!Key.isDown(17)))) { this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(index, true); this.lastSelected = index; this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), this.isSelected(index)); } else if (Key.isDown(16) && (this.selectMultiple)) { if (this.lastSelected == -1) { this.lastSelected = index; } var incr = ((this.lastSelected < index) ? 1 : -1); this.clearSelected(); var i = this.lastSelected; while (i != index) { this.selectItem(i, true); if ((i >= this.topDisplayed) && (i < (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (i - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(i), this.isSelected(i)); } i = i + incr; } this.selectItem(index, true); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (index - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), this.isSelected(index)); } else if (key.isDown(17)) { var selectedFlag = this.isSelected(index); if (!this.selectMultiple) { this.clearSelected(); } if (!((!this.selectMultiple) && (selectedFlag))) { this.selectItem(index, !selectedFlag); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(this.topDisplayed + itemNum), this.isSelected(this.topDisplayed + itemNum)); } this.lastSelected = index; } } else { this.clickFilter = true; } }; FListBoxClass.prototype.moveSelBy = function (itemNum) { super.moveSelBy(itemNum); this.releaseHandler(); }; #endinitclip this.deadPreview._visible = false;Instance of Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] "superClassAsset" in Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 2 _global.FLabelClass = function () { if (this.hostComponent == undefined) { this.hostComponent = ((this._parent.controller == undefined) ? (this._parent) : (this._parent.controller)); } if (this.customTextStyle == undefined) { if (this.hostComponent.textStyle == undefined) { this.hostComponent.textStyle = new TextFormat(); } this.textStyle = this.hostComponent.textStyle; this.enable = true; } }; FLabelClass.prototype = new MovieClip(); Object.registerClass("FLabelSymbol", FLabelClass); FLabelClass.prototype.setLabel = function (label) { var val = this.hostComponent.styleTable.embedFonts.value; if (val != undefined) { this.labelField.embedFonts = val; } this.labelField.setNewTextFormat(this.textStyle); this.labelField.text = label; this.labelField._height = this.labelField.textHeight + 2; }; FLabelClass.prototype.setSize = function (width) { this.labelField._width = width; }; FLabelClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enable) { this.enable = enable; var tmpColor = this.hostComponent.styleTable[(enable ? "textColor" : "textDisabled")].value; if (tmpColor == undefined) { tmpColor = (enable ? 0 : 8947848); } this.setColor(tmpColor); }; FLabelClass.prototype.getLabel = function () { return(this.labelField.text); }; FLabelClass.prototype.setColor = function (col) { this.labelField.textColor = col; }; #endinitclipSymbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "highlight3D");Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 1stop();Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 2stop();Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 3stop();Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 4stop();Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 6 function FPushButtonClass() { this.init(); } FPushButtonClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); Object.registerClass("FPushButtonSymbol", FPushButtonClass); FPushButtonClass.prototype.init = function () { super.setSize(this._width, this._height); this.boundingBox_mc.unloadMovie(); this.attachMovie("fpb_states", "fpbState_mc", 1); this.attachMovie("FLabelSymbol", "fLabel_mc", 2); this.attachMovie("fpb_hitArea", "fpb_hitArea_mc", 3); super.init(); this.btnState = false; this.setClickHandler(this.clickHandler); this._xscale = 100; this._yscale = 100; this.setSize(this.width, this.height); if (this.label != undefined) { this.setLabel(this.label); } this.ROLE_SYSTEM_PUSHBUTTON = 43; this.STATE_SYSTEM_PRESSED = 8; this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE = 32778; this.EVENT_OBJECT_NAMECHANGE = 32780; this._accImpl.master = this; this._accImpl.stub = false; this._accImpl.get_accRole = this.get_accRole; this._accImpl.get_accName = this.get_accName; this._accImpl.get_accState = this.get_accState; this._accImpl.get_accDefaultAction = this.get_accDefaultAction; this._accImpl.accDoDefaultAction = this.accDoDefaultAction; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setHitArea = function (w, h) { var hit = this.fpb_hitArea_mc; this.hitArea = hit; hit._visible = false; hit._width = w; hit._height = ((arguments.length > 1) ? (h) : (hit._height)); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { w = ((w < 6) ? 6 : (w)); if (arguments.length > 1) { if (h < 6) { h = 6; } } super.setSize(w, h); this.setLabel(this.getLabel()); this.arrangeLabel(); this.setHitArea(w, h); this.boundingBox_mc._width = w; this.boundingBox_mc._height = h; this.drawFrame(); if (this.focused) { super.myOnSetFocus(); } this.initContentPos("fLabel_mc"); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.arrangeLabel = function () { var label = this.fLabel_mc; var h = this.height; var w = (this.width - 2); var b = 1; this.fLabel_mc.setSize(w - (b * 4)); label._x = b * 3; label._y = (h / 2) - (label._height / 2); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getLabel = function () { return(this.fLabel_mc.labelField.text); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setLabel = function (label) { this.fLabel_mc.setLabel(label); this.txtFormat(); this.arrangeLabel(); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_NAMECHANGE); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enabled); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enable) { if (enable || (enable == undefined)) { this.gotoFrame(1); this.drawFrame(); this.flabel_mc.setEnabled(true); this.enabled = true; super.setEnabled(true); } else { this.gotoFrame(4); this.drawFrame(); this.flabel_mc.setEnabled(false); this.enabled = false; super.setEnabled(false); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.txtFormat = function () { var txtS = this.textStyle; var sTbl = this.styleTable; txtS.align = ((sTbl.textAlign.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.align = "center")) : undefined); txtS.leftMargin = ((sTbl.textLeftMargin.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.leftMargin = 1)) : undefined); txtS.rightMargin = ((sTbl.textRightMargin.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.rightMargin = 1)) : undefined); if (this.fLabel_mc._height > this.height) { super.setSize(this.width, this.fLabel_mc._height); } else { super.setSize(this.width, this.height); } this.fLabel_mc.labelField.setTextFormat(this.textStyle); this.setEnabled(this.enable); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.drawFrame = function () { var b = 1; var x1 = 0; var y1 = 0; var x2 = this.width; var y2 = this.height; var mc_array = ["up_mc", "over_mc", "down_mc", "disabled_mc"]; var frame = mc_array[this.fpbState_mc._currentframe - 1]; var mc = "frame"; var i = 0; while (i < 6) { x1 = x1 + ((i % 2) * b); y1 = y1 + ((i % 2) * b); x2 = x2 - (((i + 1) % 2) * b); y2 = y2 - (((i + 1) % 2) * b); var w = (Math.abs(x1 - x2) + (2 * b)); var h = (Math.abs(y1 - y2) + (2 * b)); this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._width = w; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._height = h; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._x = x1 - b; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._y = y1 - b; i++; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setClickHandler = function (chng, obj) { this.handlerObj = ((arguments.length < 2) ? (this._parent) : (obj)); this.clickHandler = chng; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.executeCallBack = function () { this.handlerObj[this.clickHandler](this); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.initContentPos = function (mc) { this.incrVal = 1; this.initx = this[mc]._x - (this.getBtnState() * this.incrVal); this.inity = this[mc]._y - (this.getBtnState() * this.incrVal); this.togx = this.initx + this.incrVal; this.togy = this.inity + this.incrVal; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setBtnState = function (state) { this.btnState = state; if (state) { this.fLabel_mc._x = this.togx; this.fLabel_mc._y = this.togy; } else { this.fLabel_mc._x = this.initx; this.fLabel_mc._y = this.inity; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getBtnState = function () { return(this.btnState); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { this.focused = true; super.myOnSetFocus(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onPress = function () { this.pressFocus(); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.drawFrame(); this.setBtnState(true); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE, true); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRelease = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.drawFrame(); this.executeCallBack(); this.setBtnState(false); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE, true); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRollOver = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRollOut = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onReleaseOutside = function () { this.setBtnState(false); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onDragOut = function () { this.setBtnState(false); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onDragOver = function () { this.setBtnState(true); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnKeyDown = function () { if ((Key.getCode() == 32) && (this.pressOnce == undefined)) { this.onPress(); this.pressOnce = 1; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnKeyUp = function () { if (Key.getCode() == 32) { this.onRelease(); this.pressOnce = undefined; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accRole = function (childId) { return(this.master.ROLE_SYSTEM_PUSHBUTTON); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accName = function (childId) { return(this.master.getLabel()); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accState = function (childId) { if (this.pressOnce) { return(this.master.STATE_SYSTEM_PRESSED); } return(this.master.STATE_SYSTEM_DEFAULT); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accDefaultAction = function (childId) { return("Press"); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.accDoDefaultAction = function (childId) { this.master.onPress(); this.master.onRelease(); }; #endinitclip boundingBox_mc._visible = false; deadPreview._visible = false;Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol] Frame 1#initclip 3 function FUIComponentClass() { this.init(); } FUIComponentClass.prototype = new MovieClip(); FUIComponentClass.prototype.init = function () { this.enable = true; this.focused = false; this.useHandCursor = false; this._accImpl = new Object(); this._accImpl.stub = true; this.styleTable = new Array(); if (_global.globalStyleFormat == undefined) { _global.globalStyleFormat = new FStyleFormat(); globalStyleFormat.isGlobal = true; _global._focusControl = new Object(); _global._focusControl.onSetFocus = function (oldFocus, newFocus) { oldFocus.myOnKillFocus(); newFocus.myOnSetFocus(); }; Selection.addListener(_global._focusControl); } if (this._name != undefined) { this._focusrect = false; this.tabEnabled = true; this.focusEnabled = true; this.tabChildren = false; this.tabFocused = true; if (this.hostStyle == undefined) { globalStyleFormat.addListener(this); } else { this.styleTable = this.hostStyle; } this.deadPreview._visible = false; this.deadPreview._width = (this.deadPreview._height = 1); this.methodTable = new Object(); this.keyListener = new Object(); this.keyListener.controller = this; this.keyListener.onKeyDown = function () { this.controller.myOnKeyDown(); }; this.keyListener.onKeyUp = function () { this.controller.myOnKeyUp(); }; for (var i in this.styleFormat_prm) { this.setStyleProperty(i, this.styleFormat_prm[i]); } } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.enable = ((arguments.length > 0) ? (enabledFlag) : true); this.tabEnabled = (this.focusEnabled = enabledFlag); if ((!this.enable) && (this.focused)) { Selection.setFocus(undefined); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enable); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { this.width = w; this.height = h; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setChangeHandler = function (chng, obj) { this.handlerObj = ((obj == undefined) ? (this._parent) : (obj)); this.changeHandler = chng; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.invalidate = function (methodName) { this.methodTable[methodName] = true; this.onEnterFrame = this.cleanUI; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.cleanUI = function () { if (this.methodTable.setSize) { this.setSize(this.width, this.height); } else { this.cleanUINotSize(); } this.methodTable = new Object(); delete this.onEnterFrame; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.cleanUINotSize = function () { for (var funct in this.methodTable) { this[funct](); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.drawRect = function (x, y, w, h) { var inner = this.styleTable.focusRectInner.value; var outer = this.styleTable.focusRectOuter.value; if (inner == undefined) { inner = 16777215 /* 0xFFFFFF */; } if (outer == undefined) { outer = 0; } this.createEmptyMovieClip("focusRect", 1000); this.focusRect.controller = this; this.focusRect.lineStyle(1, outer); this.focusRect.moveTo(x, y); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + w, y); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + w, y + h); this.focusRect.lineTo(x, y + h); this.focusRect.lineTo(x, y); this.focusRect.lineStyle(1, inner); this.focusRect.moveTo(x + 1, y + 1); this.focusRect.lineTo((x + w) - 1, y + 1); this.focusRect.lineTo((x + w) - 1, (y + h) - 1); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + 1, (y + h) - 1); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + 1, y + 1); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.pressFocus = function () { this.tabFocused = false; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); Selection.setFocus(this); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.drawFocusRect = function () { this.drawRect(-2, -2, this.width + 4, this.height + 4); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { this.focused = true; Key.addListener(this.keyListener); if (this.tabFocused) { this.drawFocusRect(); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.myOnKillFocus = function () { this.tabFocused = true; this.focused = false; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); Key.removeListener(this.keyListener); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.executeCallBack = function () { this.handlerObj[this.changeHandler](this); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.updateStyleProperty = function (styleFormat, propName) { this.setStyleProperty(propName, styleFormat[propName], styleFormat.isGlobal); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setStyleProperty = function (propName, value, isGlobal) { if (value == "") { return(undefined); } var tmpValue = parseInt(value); if (!isNaN(tmpValue)) { value = tmpValue; } var global = ((arguments.length > 2) ? (isGlobal) : false); if (this.styleTable[propName] == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName] = new Object(); this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = true; } if (this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal || (!global)) { this.styleTable[propName].value = value; if (this.setCustomStyleProperty(propName, value)) { } else if (propName == "embedFonts") { this.invalidate("setSize"); } else if (propName.subString(0, 4) == "text") { if (this.textStyle == undefined) { this.textStyle = new TextFormat(); } var textProp = propName.subString(4, propName.length); this.textStyle[textProp] = value; this.invalidate("setSize"); } else { for (var j in this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs) { var myColor = new Color(this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs[j]); if (this.styleTable[propName].value == undefined) { var myTObj = {ra:"100", rb:"0", ga:"100", gb:"0", ba:"100", bb:"0", aa:"100", ab:"0"}; myColor.setTransform(myTObj); } else { myColor.setRGB(value); } } } this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = global; } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.registerSkinElement = function (skinMCRef, propName) { if (this.styleTable[propName] == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName] = new Object(); this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = true; } if (this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs = new Object(); } this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs[skinMCRef] = skinMCRef; if (this.styleTable[propName].value != undefined) { var myColor = new Color(skinMCRef); myColor.setRGB(this.styleTable[propName].value); } }; _global.FStyleFormat = function () { this.nonStyles = {listeners:true, isGlobal:true, isAStyle:true, addListener:true, removeListener:true, nonStyles:true, applyChanges:true}; this.listeners = new Object(); this.isGlobal = false; if (arguments.length > 0) { for (var i in arguments[0]) { this[i] = arguments[0][i]; } } }; _global.FStyleFormat.prototype = new Object(); FStyleFormat.prototype.addListener = function () { var arg = 0; while (arg < arguments.length) { var mcRef = arguments[arg]; this.listeners[arguments[arg]] = mcRef; for (var i in this) { if (this.isAStyle(i)) { mcRef.updateStyleProperty(this, i.toString()); } } arg++; } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.removeListener = function (component) { this.listeners[component] = undefined; for (var prop in this) { if (this.isAStyle(prop)) { if (component.styleTable[prop].useGlobal == this.isGlobal) { component.styleTable[prop].useGlobal = true; var value = (this.isGlobal ? undefined : (globalStyleFormat[prop])); component.setStyleProperty(prop, value, true); } } } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.applyChanges = function () { var count = 0; for (var i in this.listeners) { var component = this.listeners[i]; if (arguments.length > 0) { var j = 0; while (j < arguments.length) { if (this.isAStyle(arguments[j])) { component.updateStyleProperty(this, arguments[j]); } j++; } } else { for (var j in this) { if (this.isAStyle(j)) { component.updateStyleProperty(this, j.toString()); } } } } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.isAStyle = function (name) { return((this.nonStyles[name] ? false : true)); }; #endinitclipSymbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "foregroundDisabled"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 1stop();Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 2stop();Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 3stop();Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 106 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight");Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] Frame 1stop();Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "foregroundDisabled"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 1stop();Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 2stop();Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 3stop();Symbol 236 MovieClip Frame 55stop();Symbol 241 Buttonon (release) { getURL ("http://www.newgrounds.com"); }Symbol 246 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }Symbol 250 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (1); }Symbol 253 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (8); }Symbol 254 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (16); }Symbol 255 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (15); }Symbol 256 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (14); }Symbol 257 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (13); }Symbol 258 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (12); }Symbol 259 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (11); }Symbol 260 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (10); }Symbol 261 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndPlay (9); }Symbol 262 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (7); }Symbol 263 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (6); }Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 1_root.stop(); PercentLoaded = (_root.getBytesLoaded() / _root.getBytesTotal()) * 100; if (PercentLoaded != 100) { setProperty(bar, _xscale , PercentLoaded); } else { gotoAndStop (3); }Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 2gotoAndPlay (1);Symbol 269 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }Symbol 270 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (17); }Symbol 271 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (18); }Symbol 272 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (19); }Symbol 273 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (20); }Symbol 274 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (21); }Symbol 275 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (22); }Symbol 276 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (23); }Symbol 277 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (24); }Symbol 278 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (25); }Symbol 279 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (26); }Symbol 282 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (1); }Symbol 285 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }Symbol 286 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (42); }Symbol 287 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (41); }Symbol 288 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (40); }Symbol 289 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (39); }Symbol 290 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (38); }Symbol 291 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (37); }Symbol 292 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (36); }Symbol 293 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (35); }Symbol 294 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (34); }Symbol 295 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (33); } on (release) { gotoAndStop (33); }Symbol 296 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (32); }Symbol 297 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (31); }Symbol 298 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (30); }Symbol 299 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (29); }Symbol 300 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (28); }Symbol 301 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (27); }Symbol 302 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (43); }Symbol 303 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (44); }Symbol 304 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (46); }Symbol 305 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (47); }Symbol 306 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (48); }Symbol 307 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (49); }Symbol 308 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (45); }Symbol 309 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }Symbol 311 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (5); }Symbol 312 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (55); }Symbol 313 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (54); }Symbol 314 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (53); }Symbol 315 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (52); }Symbol 316 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (51); }Symbol 317 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (50); }Symbol 318 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }Symbol 320 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (57); }Symbol 321 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (58); }Symbol 322 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (59); }Symbol 323 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (56); }Symbol 324 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (60); }Symbol 325 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }Symbol 337 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }Symbol 348 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }Symbol 372 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }Symbol 379 Buttonon (release) { gotoAndStop (5); }
Library Items
Symbol 1 Graphic | Used by:2 25 26 32 33 38 39 40 41 44 45 | |
Symbol 2 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:3 |
Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] | Uses:2 | |
Symbol 4 MovieClip [FListItemSymbol] | Used by:19 | |
Symbol 5 Graphic | Used by:6 27 28 34 35 46 47 | |
Symbol 6 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:7 |
Symbol 7 MovieClip | Uses:6 | Used by:8 |
Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] | Uses:7 | Used by:12 Timeline |
Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] | Used by:11 | |
Symbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol] | Used by:11 | |
Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] | Uses:9 10 | Used by:12 |
Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] | Uses:8 11 | Used by:19 |
Symbol 13 Graphic | Used by:14 264 | |
Symbol 14 MovieClip | Uses:13 | Used by:16 |
Symbol 15 Graphic | Used by:16 | |
Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] | Uses:14 15 | Used by:19 55 |
Symbol 17 Graphic | Used by:18 | |
Symbol 18 MovieClip | Uses:17 | Used by:19 |
Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] | Uses:4 12 16 18 | |
Symbol 20 Graphic | Used by:21 91 95 96 105 | |
Symbol 21 MovieClip [fpb_hitArea] | Uses:20 | |
Symbol 22 Font | Used by:23 | |
Symbol 23 EditableText | Uses:22 | Used by:24 |
Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] | Uses:23 | |
Symbol 25 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:31 |
Symbol 26 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:31 |
Symbol 27 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:31 |
Symbol 28 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:31 |
Symbol 29 Graphic | Used by:30 36 42 48 57 75 92 93 99 100 102 108 120 | |
Symbol 30 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:31 |
Symbol 31 MovieClip | Uses:25 26 27 28 30 | Used by:50 |
Symbol 32 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:37 |
Symbol 33 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:37 |
Symbol 34 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:37 |
Symbol 35 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:37 |
Symbol 36 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:37 |
Symbol 37 MovieClip | Uses:32 33 34 35 36 | Used by:50 |
Symbol 38 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:43 |
Symbol 39 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:43 |
Symbol 40 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:43 |
Symbol 41 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:43 |
Symbol 42 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:43 |
Symbol 43 MovieClip | Uses:38 39 40 41 42 | Used by:50 |
Symbol 44 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:49 |
Symbol 45 MovieClip | Uses:1 | Used by:49 |
Symbol 46 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:49 |
Symbol 47 MovieClip | Uses:5 | Used by:49 |
Symbol 48 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:49 |
Symbol 49 MovieClip | Uses:44 45 46 47 48 | Used by:50 |
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] | Uses:31 37 43 49 | |
Symbol 51 Graphic | Used by:52 | |
Symbol 52 MovieClip | Uses:51 | Used by:55 |
Symbol 53 Font | Used by:54 237 238 243 248 268 281 283 284 310 319 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 363 364 365 366 367 368 369 370 371 373 374 375 376 377 378 380 381 382 383 384 | |
Symbol 54 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:55 |
Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol] | Uses:16 52 54 | |
Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol] | ||
Symbol 57 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 58 Graphic | Used by:59 | |
Symbol 59 MovieClip | Uses:58 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 60 Graphic | Used by:61 81 111 126 | |
Symbol 61 MovieClip | Uses:60 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 62 Graphic | Used by:63 82 112 127 | |
Symbol 63 MovieClip | Uses:62 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 64 Graphic | Used by:65 70 80 113 117 125 | |
Symbol 65 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 66 Graphic | Used by:67 69 79 114 116 124 | |
Symbol 67 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:68 |
Symbol 68 MovieClip | Uses:57 59 61 63 65 67 | Used by:88 |
Symbol 69 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 70 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 71 Graphic | Used by:72 118 | |
Symbol 72 MovieClip | Uses:71 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 73 Graphic | Used by:74 119 | |
Symbol 74 MovieClip | Uses:73 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 75 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 76 Graphic | Used by:77 | |
Symbol 77 MovieClip | Uses:76 | Used by:78 |
Symbol 78 MovieClip | Uses:69 70 72 74 75 77 | Used by:88 |
Symbol 79 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 80 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 81 MovieClip | Uses:60 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 82 MovieClip | Uses:62 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 83 Graphic | Used by:84 128 | |
Symbol 84 MovieClip | Uses:83 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 85 Graphic | Used by:86 | |
Symbol 86 MovieClip | Uses:85 | Used by:87 |
Symbol 87 MovieClip | Uses:79 80 81 82 84 86 | Used by:88 |
Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] | Uses:68 78 87 | |
Symbol 89 Graphic | Used by:90 | |
Symbol 90 MovieClip | Uses:89 | Used by:94 |
Symbol 91 MovieClip | Uses:20 | Used by:94 |
Symbol 92 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:94 |
Symbol 93 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:94 |
Symbol 94 MovieClip | Uses:90 91 92 93 | Used by:107 |
Symbol 95 MovieClip | Uses:20 | Used by:101 |
Symbol 96 MovieClip | Uses:20 | Used by:101 |
Symbol 97 Graphic | Used by:98 | |
Symbol 98 MovieClip | Uses:97 | Used by:101 |
Symbol 99 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:101 |
Symbol 100 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:101 |
Symbol 101 MovieClip | Uses:95 96 98 99 100 | Used by:107 |
Symbol 102 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:106 |
Symbol 103 Graphic | Used by:104 | |
Symbol 104 MovieClip | Uses:103 | Used by:106 |
Symbol 105 MovieClip | Uses:20 | Used by:106 |
Symbol 106 MovieClip | Uses:102 104 105 | Used by:107 |
Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] | Uses:94 101 106 | |
Symbol 108 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 109 Graphic | Used by:110 | |
Symbol 110 MovieClip | Uses:109 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 111 MovieClip | Uses:60 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 112 MovieClip | Uses:62 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 113 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 114 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:115 |
Symbol 115 MovieClip | Uses:108 110 111 112 113 114 | Used by:132 |
Symbol 116 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 117 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 118 MovieClip | Uses:71 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 119 MovieClip | Uses:73 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 120 MovieClip | Uses:29 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 121 Graphic | Used by:122 | |
Symbol 122 MovieClip | Uses:121 | Used by:123 |
Symbol 123 MovieClip | Uses:116 117 118 119 120 122 | Used by:132 |
Symbol 124 MovieClip | Uses:66 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 125 MovieClip | Uses:64 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 126 MovieClip | Uses:60 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 127 MovieClip | Uses:62 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 128 MovieClip | Uses:83 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 129 Graphic | Used by:130 | |
Symbol 130 MovieClip | Uses:129 | Used by:131 |
Symbol 131 MovieClip | Uses:124 125 126 127 128 130 | Used by:132 |
Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] | Uses:115 123 131 | |
Symbol 133 Graphic | Used by:Timeline | |
Symbol 134 Bitmap | Used by:135 | |
Symbol 135 Graphic | Uses:134 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 136 Bitmap | Used by:137 | |
Symbol 137 Graphic | Uses:136 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 138 Bitmap | Used by:139 | |
Symbol 139 Graphic | Uses:138 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 140 Bitmap | Used by:141 | |
Symbol 141 Graphic | Uses:140 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 142 Bitmap | Used by:143 | |
Symbol 143 Graphic | Uses:142 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 144 Bitmap | Used by:145 | |
Symbol 145 Graphic | Uses:144 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 146 Bitmap | Used by:147 | |
Symbol 147 Graphic | Uses:146 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 148 Bitmap | Used by:149 | |
Symbol 149 Graphic | Uses:148 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 150 Bitmap | Used by:151 | |
Symbol 151 Graphic | Uses:150 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 152 Bitmap | Used by:153 | |
Symbol 153 Graphic | Uses:152 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 154 Bitmap | Used by:155 | |
Symbol 155 Graphic | Uses:154 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 156 Bitmap | Used by:157 | |
Symbol 157 Graphic | Uses:156 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 158 Bitmap | Used by:159 | |
Symbol 159 Graphic | Uses:158 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 160 Bitmap | Used by:161 | |
Symbol 161 Graphic | Uses:160 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 162 Bitmap | Used by:163 | |
Symbol 163 Graphic | Uses:162 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 164 Bitmap | Used by:165 | |
Symbol 165 Graphic | Uses:164 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 166 Bitmap | Used by:167 | |
Symbol 167 Graphic | Uses:166 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 168 Bitmap | Used by:169 | |
Symbol 169 Graphic | Uses:168 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 170 Bitmap | Used by:171 | |
Symbol 171 Graphic | Uses:170 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 172 Bitmap | Used by:173 | |
Symbol 173 Graphic | Uses:172 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 174 Bitmap | Used by:175 | |
Symbol 175 Graphic | Uses:174 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 176 Bitmap | Used by:177 | |
Symbol 177 Graphic | Uses:176 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 178 Bitmap | Used by:179 | |
Symbol 179 Graphic | Uses:178 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 180 Bitmap | Used by:181 | |
Symbol 181 Graphic | Uses:180 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 182 Bitmap | Used by:183 | |
Symbol 183 Graphic | Uses:182 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 184 Bitmap | Used by:185 | |
Symbol 185 Graphic | Uses:184 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 186 Bitmap | Used by:187 | |
Symbol 187 Graphic | Uses:186 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 188 Bitmap | Used by:189 | |
Symbol 189 Graphic | Uses:188 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 190 Bitmap | Used by:191 | |
Symbol 191 Graphic | Uses:190 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 192 Bitmap | Used by:193 | |
Symbol 193 Graphic | Uses:192 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 194 Bitmap | Used by:195 | |
Symbol 195 Graphic | Uses:194 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 196 Bitmap | Used by:197 | |
Symbol 197 Graphic | Uses:196 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 198 Bitmap | Used by:199 | |
Symbol 199 Graphic | Uses:198 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 200 Bitmap | Used by:201 | |
Symbol 201 Graphic | Uses:200 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 202 Bitmap | Used by:203 | |
Symbol 203 Graphic | Uses:202 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 204 Bitmap | Used by:205 | |
Symbol 205 Graphic | Uses:204 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 206 Bitmap | Used by:207 | |
Symbol 207 Graphic | Uses:206 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 208 Bitmap | Used by:209 | |
Symbol 209 Graphic | Uses:208 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 210 Bitmap | Used by:211 | |
Symbol 211 Graphic | Uses:210 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 212 Bitmap | Used by:213 | |
Symbol 213 Graphic | Uses:212 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 214 Bitmap | Used by:215 | |
Symbol 215 Graphic | Uses:214 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 216 Bitmap | Used by:217 | |
Symbol 217 Graphic | Uses:216 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 218 Bitmap | Used by:219 | |
Symbol 219 Graphic | Uses:218 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 220 Bitmap | Used by:221 | |
Symbol 221 Graphic | Uses:220 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 222 Bitmap | Used by:223 | |
Symbol 223 Graphic | Uses:222 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 224 Bitmap | Used by:225 | |
Symbol 225 Graphic | Uses:224 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 226 Bitmap | Used by:227 | |
Symbol 227 Graphic | Uses:226 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 228 Bitmap | Used by:229 | |
Symbol 229 Graphic | Uses:228 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 230 Bitmap | Used by:231 | |
Symbol 231 Graphic | Uses:230 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 232 Bitmap | Used by:233 | |
Symbol 233 Graphic | Uses:232 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 234 Bitmap | Used by:235 | |
Symbol 235 Graphic | Uses:234 | Used by:236 |
Symbol 236 MovieClip | Uses:135 137 139 141 143 145 147 149 151 153 155 157 159 161 163 165 167 169 171 173 175 177 179 181 183 185 187 189 191 193 195 197 199 201 203 205 207 209 211 213 215 217 219 221 223 225 227 229 231 233 235 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 237 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 238 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 239 Bitmap | Used by:240 | |
Symbol 240 Graphic | Uses:239 | Used by:241 |
Symbol 241 Button | Uses:240 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 242 Graphic | Used by:246 269 285 311 | |
Symbol 243 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:246 269 285 311 |
Symbol 244 Graphic | Used by:246 269 282 285 309 311 318 325 | |
Symbol 245 Sound | Used by:246 250 253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 282 285 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 318 320 321 322 323 324 325 337 348 372 379 | |
Symbol 246 Button | Uses:242 243 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 247 Graphic | Used by:250 337 348 372 379 | |
Symbol 248 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:250 337 348 372 379 |
Symbol 249 Graphic | Used by:250 337 348 372 379 | |
Symbol 250 Button | Uses:247 248 249 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 251 Graphic | Used by:253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 312 313 314 315 316 317 320 321 322 323 324 | |
Symbol 252 Graphic | Used by:253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 312 313 314 315 316 317 320 321 322 323 324 | |
Symbol 253 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 254 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 255 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 256 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 257 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 258 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 259 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 260 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 261 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 262 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 263 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 264 MovieClip | Uses:13 | Used by:266 |
Symbol 265 Graphic | Used by:266 | |
Symbol 266 MovieClip | Uses:264 265 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 267 Graphic | Used by:Timeline | |
Symbol 268 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 269 Button | Uses:242 243 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 270 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 271 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 272 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 273 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 274 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 275 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 276 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 277 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 278 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 279 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 280 Graphic | Used by:282 309 318 325 | |
Symbol 281 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:282 309 318 325 |
Symbol 282 Button | Uses:280 281 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 283 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 284 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 285 Button | Uses:242 243 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 286 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 287 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 288 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 289 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 290 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 291 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 292 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 293 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 294 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 295 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 296 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 297 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 298 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 299 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 300 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 301 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 302 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 303 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 304 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 305 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 306 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 307 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 308 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 309 Button | Uses:280 281 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 310 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 311 Button | Uses:242 243 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 312 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 313 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 314 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 315 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 316 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 317 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 318 Button | Uses:280 281 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 319 Text | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 320 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 321 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 322 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 323 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 324 Button | Uses:251 252 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 325 Button | Uses:280 281 244 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 326 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 327 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 328 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 329 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 330 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 331 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 332 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 333 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 334 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 335 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 336 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 337 Button | Uses:247 248 249 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 338 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 339 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 340 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 341 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 342 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 343 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 344 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 345 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 346 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 347 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 348 Button | Uses:247 248 249 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 349 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 350 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 351 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 352 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 353 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 354 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 355 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 356 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 357 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 358 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 359 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 360 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 361 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 362 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 363 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 364 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 365 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 366 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 367 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 368 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 369 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 370 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 371 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 372 Button | Uses:247 248 249 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 373 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 374 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 375 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 376 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 377 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 378 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 379 Button | Uses:247 248 249 245 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 380 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 381 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 382 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 383 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Symbol 384 EditableText | Uses:53 | Used by:Timeline |
Instance Names
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 6 | Symbol 326 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 7 | Symbol 327 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 8 | Symbol 328 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 9 | Symbol 329 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 10 | Symbol 330 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 11 | Symbol 331 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 12 | Symbol 332 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 13 | Symbol 333 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 14 | Symbol 334 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 15 | Symbol 335 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 16 | Symbol 336 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 17 | Symbol 338 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 18 | Symbol 339 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 19 | Symbol 340 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 20 | Symbol 341 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 21 | Symbol 342 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 22 | Symbol 343 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 23 | Symbol 344 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 24 | Symbol 345 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 25 | Symbol 346 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 26 | Symbol 347 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 27 | Symbol 349 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 28 | Symbol 350 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 29 | Symbol 351 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 30 | Symbol 352 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 31 | Symbol 353 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 32 | Symbol 354 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 33 | Symbol 355 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 34 | Symbol 356 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 35 | Symbol 357 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 36 | Symbol 358 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 37 | Symbol 359 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 38 | Symbol 360 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 39 | Symbol 361 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 40 | Symbol 362 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 41 | Symbol 363 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 42 | Symbol 364 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 43 | Symbol 365 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 44 | Symbol 366 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 45 | Symbol 367 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 46 | Symbol 368 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 47 | Symbol 369 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 48 | Symbol 370 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 49 | Symbol 371 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 50 | Symbol 373 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 51 | Symbol 374 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 52 | Symbol 375 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 53 | Symbol 376 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 54 | Symbol 377 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 55 | Symbol 378 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 56 | Symbol 380 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 57 | Symbol 381 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 58 | Symbol 382 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 59 | Symbol 383 EditableText |
"InstanceName_1" | Frame 60 | Symbol 384 EditableText |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 2 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc2" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 2 | Symbol 2 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc3" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 3 | Symbol 2 MovieClip |
"track_mc" | Symbol 7 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 6 MovieClip |
"scrollTrack_mc" | Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 7 MovieClip |
"dPAsset" | Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] |
"ItemAsset" | Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol] |
"scrollBarAsset" | Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] |
"superClassAsset" | Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] |
"boundingBox" | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 14 MovieClip |
"boundingBox2" | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 2 | Symbol 14 MovieClip |
"itemAsset" | Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 4 MovieClip [FListItemSymbol] |
"superClassAsset" | Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] |
"boundingBox_mc" | Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] |
"deadPreview" | Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 18 MovieClip |
"labelField" | Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 23 EditableText |
"frame1" | Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 25 MovieClip |
"frame2" | Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 26 MovieClip |
"frame3" | Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 27 MovieClip |
"frame4" | Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 28 MovieClip |
"frame5" | Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 30 MovieClip |
"frame1" | Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 32 MovieClip |
"frame2" | Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 33 MovieClip |
"frame3" | Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 34 MovieClip |
"frame4" | Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 35 MovieClip |
"frame5" | Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 36 MovieClip |
"frame1" | Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 38 MovieClip |
"frame2" | Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 39 MovieClip |
"frame3" | Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 40 MovieClip |
"frame4" | Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 41 MovieClip |
"frame5" | Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 42 MovieClip |
"frame1" | Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 44 MovieClip |
"frame2" | Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 45 MovieClip |
"frame3" | Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 46 MovieClip |
"frame4" | Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 47 MovieClip |
"frame5" | Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 48 MovieClip |
"up_mc" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 1 | Symbol 31 MovieClip |
"over_mc" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 2 | Symbol 37 MovieClip |
"down_mc" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 3 | Symbol 43 MovieClip |
"disabled_mc" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 4 | Symbol 49 MovieClip |
"boundingBox_mc" | Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] |
"deadPreview" | Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol] Frame 1 | Symbol 52 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 57 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 59 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 61 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 63 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 65 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 67 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 69 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 70 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 72 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 74 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 75 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 77 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 79 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 80 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 81 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 82 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 84 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 86 MovieClip |
"up" | Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 1 | Symbol 68 MovieClip |
"down" | Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 2 | Symbol 78 MovieClip |
"disabled" | Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 3 | Symbol 87 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 90 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 91 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 92 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 93 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 95 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 96 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 98 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 99 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 100 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 106 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 102 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 106 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 104 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 106 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 105 MovieClip |
"mc_sliderTop" | Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] Frame 1 | Symbol 94 MovieClip |
"mc_sliderMid" | Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] Frame 1 | Symbol 101 MovieClip |
"mc_sliderBot" | Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] Frame 1 | Symbol 106 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 108 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 110 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 111 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 112 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 113 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 114 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 116 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 117 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 118 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 119 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 120 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 122 MovieClip |
"highlight3D_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 124 MovieClip |
"darkshadow_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 125 MovieClip |
"highlight_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 126 MovieClip |
"shadow_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 127 MovieClip |
"face_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 128 MovieClip |
"arrow_mc" | Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 130 MovieClip |
"up" | Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 1 | Symbol 115 MovieClip |
"down" | Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 2 | Symbol 123 MovieClip |
"disabled" | Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 3 | Symbol 131 MovieClip |
"bar" | Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 1 | Symbol 264 MovieClip |
Special Tags
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 3 as "FHighlightSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 4 as "FListItemSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 9 as "DataProviderSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 10 as "FSelectableItemSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 11 as "FSelectableListSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 12 as "FScrollSelectListSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 16 as "FBoundingBoxSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 19 as "FListBoxSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 21 as "fpb_hitArea" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 24 as "FLabelSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 50 as "fpb_states" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 16 as "FBoundingBoxSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 55 as "FPushButtonSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 56 as "FUIComponentSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 88 as "UpArrow" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 107 as "ScrollThumb" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 132 as "DownArrow" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 1 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 2 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 3 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 4 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 5 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 6 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 7 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 8 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 9 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 10 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 11 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 12 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 13 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 14 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 15 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 16 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 17 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 18 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 19 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 20 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 21 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 22 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 23 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 24 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 25 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 26 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 27 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 28 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 29 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 30 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 31 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 32 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 33 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 34 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 35 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 36 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 37 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 38 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 39 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 40 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 41 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 42 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 43 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 44 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 45 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 46 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 47 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 48 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 49 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 50 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 51 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 52 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 53 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 54 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 55 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 56 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 57 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 58 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 59 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
ExportAssets (56) | Timeline Frame 60 | Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol" |
Labels
"enabled" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 1 |
"disabled" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 2 |
"unfocused" | Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 3 |
"Symbol_354" | Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] Frame 1 |
"enabled" | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 1 |
"disabled" | Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 2 |
#"Symbol_10" | Symbol 21 MovieClip [fpb_hitArea] Frame 1 |
"Symbol_32" | Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] Frame 1 |
"up" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 1 |
"over" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 2 |
"down" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 3 |
"disabled" | Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 4 |
"Symbol_36" | Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol] Frame 1 |
"loaded" | Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 3 |
|