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The Anarchists Cookbook.swf

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See My Profile

The Anarchists Cookbook - Flash V2

Index to the Anarchists Cookbook
Section   I: Your Constitutional Rights ( At Least In America )
01:  Your Legal Rights (For adults, or some of us think we are)
02:  Juvenile Offenders' Rights
Section  II: The Art Of Breaking & Entering
03:  Picking Master Locks
04:  The Arts of Lockpicking I
05:  The Arts of Lockpicking II
06:  Lockpicking 3
07:  LockPicking 4
08:  Lockpicking the EASY way
09:  Breaking into Houses
10:  Stealing
11:  Hotwiring cars

>

Back To Index

Section III:  Fraud
12:  How to Get a New Identity
13:  Counterfeiting Money
14:  Credit Card Fraud
15:  The Art of Carding
16:  Recognizing Credit Cards
17:  Jackpotting ATM Machines
18:  Ripping off Change Machines
19:  Ripping off change machines 2
20:  Surveillance Equipment
21:  European Credit Card Fraud

<

Section  IV:  Misc. Anarchy
22:  Lab-Raid Checklist
23:  Suppliers II
24:  Special Ammunition
25:  Rocketry
26:  Blowgun
27:  Home-brew blast cannon
28:  Pipe Cannon 2
29:  Portable Grenade Launcher
30:  Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
31:  Down The Road Missle
32:  Low Signature Systems (Silencers)
33:  Highway police radar jamming
34:  Do ya hate school?
35:  Hypnotism
36:  Fun at K-Mart
37:  Terrorizing McDonalds

38:  Mace Substitute
39:  Operation: Fuckup
40:  Pool Fun
41:  Free Postage
42:  Miscellaneous
43:  Misc. Anarchy
44:  Misc. Anarchy II

Section   V:  Drugs
45:  How to Grow Marijuana (With some little known facts at the end)
46:  Yummy Marihuana Recipes
47:  LSD
48:  Bananas
49:  Peanuts
50:  Weird Drugs

Section  VI:  Revenge
51:  Ways to send a car to HELL
52:  More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
53:  Electronic Terrorism
54:  How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands
55:  Nicotine




Your Legal Rights



Because you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you
should be aware of your legal rights IF arrested (hey, it happens to the
worst of us).

Your Legal Rights are::


1)  Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after
you are arrested.
2)  Be notified of the charges against you.
3)  Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted.
4)  Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury.
5)  Be present at all stages of the trial.
6)  Confront your accusers.  (without the baseball bat)
7)  Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses.
8)  Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf.
9)  Be tried for a crime only once.
10) Receive neither cruel nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a
crime and sentenced.


NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the
reading of the rights, etc.  If these rights are violated in ANY way, that may
be cause for a mistrial, or even total release.



Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-







How The Law Protects Juvenile Offenders
(or tries to, anyway)





Juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended
to protect them, because of their age.  If a juvenile is charged with a crime
punishable by a term in a reform school or juvenile detention facility, he is
assured the right to:


1)  Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself.
2)  Be placed in quarters seperate from adult offenders while being held in
custody.
3)  Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him.
4)  Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to
appear at his trial (unless the child is likely to run away and not come back
to court unless he is dangerous or may himself be in danger if sent back home).
5)  Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public.
6)  Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future
appeal.
7)  Be represented by a lawyer.
8)  Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one.
9)  Confront his accusers.
10) Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses.


Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested.



Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-





Picking Master Locks                            by The Jolly Roger

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme.  If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn.  That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach.  You now
have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got.  Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once.  When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob.  The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock.  While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob.  If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers.  Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp.  The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

The older models are from 1988-1990.  The newer models are being
cracked on as we speak..

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

The Arts of Lockpicking I              courtesy of The Jolly Roger

Lockpicking I:  Cars and assorted other locks

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.

Automobiles:

Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III);  however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work.  So:

American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA  90230

ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door).  Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.

Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick.  To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult.  So:

Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY  10801

LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle.  The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:

Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH  45408

For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings.  They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock.  So:

A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH  44646

Price is $11.95.  Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO  50588

VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys).  Prices average about
$20.00 a set.

Updated Lockpicking:

For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems.  In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:

Normal Picking:  Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

Racking:  This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches.  These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there.  Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.

Lock Aid Gun:  This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel.  Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled.  This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly.  If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly.  With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second.  When this happens the lock
will open.  The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic.  You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.

Vibrator:  Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit.  This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.

There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time.  Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device.  I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR  85252

The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller.  It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks.  The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith.  It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all.  It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer.  It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap.  How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?

$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model.  It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.

If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...

The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods.  Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired.  Each one is threaded on
one end.  To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank.  Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor.  The device produces an incredible
amount of heat.  It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks.  An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds.  The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:

C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL  60634


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

The Arts of Lockpicking II             courtesy of The Jolly Roger

So you want to be a criminal.  Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it.  Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky.  If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere.  The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.

First of all, you need a pick set.  If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set.  This will be the best possible set for you
to use.  If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope.  It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small).  These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot.  Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees).  Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly.  Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in.  It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other.  In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
|  |  |  |   |   |    / E
|     |   |   |    \ Y           [|]  Upper tumbler pin
^     ^               / H           [^]  Lower tumbler pin
^  ^  ^  ^   ^   ^    \ O           [-]  Cylinder wall
/ L   (This is a greatly simplified
\ E    drawing)
______________________________/

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall.  Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in.  Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn.  This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down.  Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.

Do not get discouraged on your first try!  It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time.  After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


LOCKPICKING 3

If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer.  There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks.

These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the
latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is
done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing
the latch back into the door.

Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door
closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from
being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate
of the door.  If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently
far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be
slipped.

(Ill. 2.11)       ___
|   }   <
Small   ->
   (|   }   <--- The large (first) finger
second        |___}   <
finger

Some methods for getting through locked doors are:

1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the
frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to
the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed
with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position
horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it
out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after
shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of
forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings,
and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart.  While holding
them apart, try to slip the lock.  Screwdrivers, while not entirely
innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they
work.  If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but
then why bother to slip the lock at all?
3) Find a set of double doors.  They are particularly easy to pry apart far
enough to slip.
4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or
replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so
that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped).  If
you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make
it much easier to pick.
5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door
opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with
welded tabs).  Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its
effectiveness.
6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly,
break the mechanism.  Use of sufficient force to make the first finger
retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g.,
Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially,
yet otherwise work in all normal ways.  Use of a hammer and/or
screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the
door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to
attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/....
7) Look around in desks.  People very often leave keys to sensitive things
in them or other obvious places.  Especially keys to shared critical
resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that
everyone needs access to.  Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a
tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a
wax impression.  Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for
better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can
get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with
a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key.  Using a
micrometer works best:  keys made from mic measurements are more likely
to work consistently than keys made by any other method.  If you us
tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that
works reliably.  Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble
it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed.
8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily.  Many desks have
simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be
consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes.  A small
screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands.  Apply
a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the
screwdriver.  Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip.  With
practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins
will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the
top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up,
additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock.  This, in
conjunction with (7) can be very effective.  This works better with older
or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the
cylinder.  Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if
their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins
to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it
generally takes a *lot* of patience.
9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take
breaks.  Make the most of your opportunities.
10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there.  Nothing makes
anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to
look inconspicuous.  If there are several of you, have some innocuous and
normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy!  What time is it?") so that
they can get anything suspicious put away.  Don't travel in large groups
at 3 AM.  Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's
aid in breaking into a car.  Remember this.  Security people usually
*like* to help people.  Don't make them suspicious or annoy them.  If you
do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any
theft or break-ins reported there the next day...
11) Consider the possibilities of master keys.  Often, every lock in a
building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys
are a common exception).  Take apart some locks from different places
that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in
each, and find lengths in common.  Experiment.  Then get into those
places you're *really* curious about.
12) Control keys are fun, too.  These keys allow the user to remove the
lock's core, and are generally masters.  (A pair of needle nose pliers or
similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.)


SLIPPING A LOCK

The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper.  It
is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent
as needed.  In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls
nicely.  Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs,
etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb
is wide enough.  Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective.  Don't
leave home without one.

(Ill. #1)

The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that
looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| |          L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|

(Ill.  #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| |     J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|

(Ill.  #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| |     U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|


We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities
have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys.  At
most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal
charges.  Don't get caught with keys!!!  The homemade ones are
particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks
that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]

we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are
various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down.  For
instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any
key used to open them.  If you lose one this way, what can I say?  At least
don't leave fingerprints on it.  Or make sure they're someone else's.  Too
much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


OPENING COMBO LOCKS

[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ]

First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock.  When the lock
is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on
the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock
when you lock it.

To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired
combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the
lock open.  I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when you don't know the combination to begin with).

To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or
a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved
piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal
is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down.

Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side
and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side.  The curved part  can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file
down the other end until it is fairly thin.  You should do this to many
hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy
various locks.

Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from.  If you can't tell,
you will just have to try both sides.  When ya find out what side it opens
from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the
horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.

Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the
crack) and pull the lock up and down.  The lock will then open because the
pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open.

Also, this technique works best on American locks.  I have never picked a
Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone
does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very
tight so ya can't get the shim in.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner...           Brought to you by:

-= Exodus =-


This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked.  The
only problem with this, though, is that it only works for outward
opening doors.  Ok, here we go....

1)  Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing
that sticks between the door and the wall.

2)  See how that thing is curved on one side?  Well, that is what we
will be making use of.

3)  Acquire a large paper-clip.  If it is too short, it won't work.
You have to also have a shoelace.  Now, onto the construction...

4)  Straighten the paper-clip.

5)  Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace.  The shoelace
should be about 4/5 on one side of the clip and 1/5 on the other.
Let's see if I can draw it.

------------------*************************************
-*
*******


--- is the paper clip
*** is the shoelace

That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture.

6)  All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it)

7)  With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall,
behind the metal thing that sticks between.

8)  Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the
shoelace.

9)  Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA!
the door is open.

I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because
it is a lot quicker.  Lock picking can take 5 minutes... When done correctly
this only takes 30 seconds!  So, if you can, use this.

another addition to the mighty cookbook by
ACID FLESH

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


Breaking Into Houses                            by the Jolly Roger

Okay You Need:
1.  Tear Gas or Mace
2.  A BB/Pelet Gun
3.  An Ice Pick
4.  Thick Gloves

What You Do Is:

1.  Call the ###-#### of the house, or ring doorbell,  To find out if
they're home.
2.  If they're not home then...
3.  Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4.  If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5.  Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6.  Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7.  Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8.  Enter window.
9.  FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (they're neat things there!).
10.  Then goto the Bed-room to get a pillow  case.  Put the goodies in
the pillow case.
11.  Get out <-* FAST! -*>

Notes:   You should have certian targets worked out (like computers,
Radios, Ect.,Ect.).    Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own
neigborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++          STEALING         ++
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



It is strange just how many files there are out there that try to
document the art of stealing.  After all, it IS an art.  You have to
be calm, smooth, persistant, patient.  Stealing is not an overnight-
planned operation.  You should try to prepare for at least a week or
more when planning to steal from a house, and even LONGER when from
a business.  Storytime, kiddies:

A long time ago, well, in the past year, my friends and I
noticed that the building complex in our town was the perfect place
to obtain unpaid-for items.  We learned all we could about the
complex, which was about 365,000 sqft, and each company consisted of
an office (fully furnished with cool computer stuff), and a 10,000
sqft (roughly) warehouse, all interconnected, and all one level.
This information was obtained through several calls to the town
committee (board of development, or some shit like that, the place
that you call for building permits, and the like.), and we obtained
the blueprints for the whole complex.  We planned a route from the
side entrance through the warehouse, and into the offices, where all
the good stuff is usually located.  Now that we had our route, all
we needed was a plan to get inside.  Since this was our first major
job, we spent a few good weeks on preparation.  During the snow
weather, we worked w/ a company to shovel the sidewalks of the
complex.  One night, at about 11 pm, we stopped shoveling in front
of our planned job site, Campbells Soup, Co.  There was nobody there
except the janitors that cleaned up the place (or so we thought).  I
asked the janitor if I could use the bathroom (I did have to go too)
and he let me in.  I must have surprised him when I knew exactly
where the bathroom was!  As I walked to it, I scanned for vid cams,
infrared guns/recievers (little boxes at entrances with a black
glass square about 1" sq. at about knee hight on each side).
Nothing.  The doors all had security magnetic detection at the tops,
and also the windows.  To think someone would break in through an
obvious place like a large window, stupid.  To my surprise, there
were a few losers working late, and didn't really care that I was
there at all.  Take another Viverin' guys, I wont be here long.  The
smell of black coffee was stifeling.  The bathroom was located back
by the office's entrance to the warehouse, and to my surprise, it
was unlocked!  The lights were on, and the place was totally empty,
except for a few cardboard remains, and shelves, and that blessed
side door.  I walked over to the door to examine it.  No security,
no vid cams in the warehouse, no nothing.  Odd, usually these
warehouses were kept tight as a hookers pussy.  But it looked like
they were packing up to move somewhere.  Boxes on the office desks,
etc..  The door was locked with a key deadbolt (pain to pick) and a
regular door-knob key lock.  No problem.  I needed to stop that
deadbolt from being locked, so I looked around for something to
use....aha!  There was some strange material like alum. foil on the
ground, pliable, yet of a black color.  I took out a small allen key
(a thief never goes ANYWHERE without a small lockpicking tool) and
crammed enough of the stuff into the keyhole so that a key could not
be inserted far enough to turn, and the stuff was inn to far to be
pulled out.  Viola!  Back to the point of this story.  When the time
came to make our move, something strange happened.  The place was
abandoned for 3 days straight, most office equipment removed, and
the front door left ajar, for all 3 days.  We still decided to enter
via our planned route.  At 1:30am we went to the side door, and what
a surprise, the deadbolt lock was open.  Now to the knob lock.  It
was still locked, but not a problem.  Knob locks usually look like
this:


|-wall socket>
--------------------------
|       )
d   -------------------------------|
o                     |            |
o                     |           )
r                     |         )
|       )
-------------------------
|
|-wall socket>

The top sliding piece is about 1/4" wide on popular locks, with the
bar facing you, if the door swings outward.  With the smallest
allenkey you can get, stick it in and repeatively push and slide it
back towards the knob, but don't let go, because it is spring loaded
and will snap back into place again.  Now for the larger bar.  Take
another key and wedge it into the slot where the bar enters the
other wall (without the knob on it)! and do the same thing.  This
will be considerably harder to do than with the small tongue, but if
you practiced like you should have, it will open with minimum effort.
Now we were inside.  We ran through the warehouse thruogh the
warehouse/office door (these are rarely locked, but try to prepare
for it ahead of time by "cramming the lock" like I did) and into the
office.  The place was empty, no shelves, just desks, chairs, and
boxes.  The boxes contained modems, motherboards, bus cards,
printers, cables, fone cable, and one contained a Zenith laptop
computer!  No shit, this is a true story!  We took everything we
could carry (5 people).  We took all the above mentioned, as well as
printer toner, fones, fone jacks, documents, desk chairs, insulated
boxes and bags (static-free kind), even the little shit things, like
outlet plates, light bulbs, ANYTHING!!!  We went really crazy, and
were out in 2 min 30 sec.(always set a time limit)
We wound up throwing half the shit away, but it felt great just
to take anything that was not ours!! I have since then done other
"jobs" with much more precision, and effort, as well as better
rewards.  Here are some tips that should be followed when attempting
to steal::


-WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!

-backpacks for everyone to put the loot in

-always case the joint for at least a week and keep documented
records of who leaves when, what time it closes, timed lights, etc...

-have at least 4 phriends with you, and ,please, make sure they know
what they are doing, no idiots allowed!

-bring tools :small allen keys, both types of screwdrivers, standard
size, and tiny, hacksaw blade, wire cutters and strippers,
spraypaint-to leave your handle on the wall, hammer, mace, gun-if
available, flashlights (duh), wire-good for re-routing door
security, and bolt cutters.

-designate a person to carry all the tools ONLY-don't have him
pickup stuff and mix it with the tools, this will only slow you down
later if you need to look for a tool quickly.

-designate a person to STAY PUT by the door and keep watch.

-designate a timer, one who has a lighted stopwatch.

-make runs NO LONGER THAT 3 MIN.  EVEN THIS TIME IS EXTREEMELY
HIGH-TRY TO KEEP AS LOW AS POSSIBLE.

-getaway vehicle (preferably NOT a van or pickup truck, these will
be very suspicious to the pigs..er.I mean cops.  And don't speed, or
anything, this just attracts attention.  Cover licence plates till
just before you get your asses going, so no one can report the
plates to the pigs..oops!, damn, did it again, cops.  Make sure you
remove covering before leaving.

-Always keep flashlights pointed DOWN unless necessary, crawl under
windows, no shouting, even if you find some phucking cool shit, on
second thought, maybe painting your handle is a little stupid, so
forget that, wear dark clothes OVER regular, non-suspicious clothes
(get changed first thing in the car)

-Never brag about your findings in public, only on modem, or on BBS,
and never give names of places, phriends, and exact names of things
taken, (just say you 'borrowed' a 486DX 33 motherboard, don't say is
a Intel 486DX 33 mhz for an IBM PS/1 model 50, serial
#XXXXXXXXXXXX.  that is just plain dumb)

-Have phunn!! and never steal from your neighborhood.

-If you break into houses, never move stuff around; the longer it
takes the yuppie family to realize that you were there, the better.

-WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-to get in windows: shoot window with BB gun, and place clear,
stickey hard-cover book covering on the window over the hole,
hopefully the inpact of the shot was enough to crack the glass, and
LEAN OR PUSH on the covered glass, do not hit or kick, and you will
see that the majority of the glass will stick to the covering, and
will make considerably less noise.

-enter through basement windows preferably under a deck or steps.

-MAKE SURE THE PEOPLE WILL BE GONE FOR THE NIGHT AND THE NEIGHBORS
ARE ASLEEP (GO FOR AROUND 2:30 AM)

-take stuff that will sell easily to friends, and don't waste time
taking things that look neat, just take the basics:  electronic,
computer, TV, VCR, some jewelry-things you could easily hock,
preferably without inscriptions, raid the fridge, take good quality
fones, stereo equip., speakers, etc..

-always case the outside of the house looking for security stickers
that yuppie families like to place in full view.

-do mischievous shit like cut all fone lines in house, cut up couch
cushions, and flip them over so they look perfectly normal!; shoot a
hole in their fish tank, (all yuppies own fish); slash clothes, then
put them back into the drawer; unplug fridge; set thermostat way up
to 99.9 degrees; leave drain plugged and let the faucet run just a
little, (for 6 hours!!); whatever you can't take or carry out,
destroy in a subtle way, -if you can't carry out those 130 lb wood
case stereo speakers, slash the cones; break ballpoint pens open and
rub them into the carpet with their shoes; run a magnet over audio
and VCR cassettes and floppies, and anything else subtle that would
brighten their day.





A personal favorite,
Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

The easiest way to hotwire cars                 by the Jolly Roger

Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

How To Create A New Indentity                    By The Walking Glitch
Courtesy of the Jolly Roger!

You might be saying, "Hey Glitch, what do I need a new identity for?"
The answer is simple. You might want to go buy liquor somewhere, right?
You might want to go give the cops the false name when you get busted
so you keep your good name, eh?  You might even want to use the new
identity for getting a P.O. Box for carding. Sure! You might even
want the stuff for renting yourself a VCR at some dickless loser of a
convenience store. Here we go:
Getting a new ID isn't always easy, no one said it would be. By following
these steps, any bozo can become a new bozo in a coupla weeks.

STEP 1

The first step is to find out who exactly you'll become. The
most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it themselves.
The people who fit that bill the best are dead. As an added bonus they
don't go complaining one bit. Go to the library and look
through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about
the same time as you were, or better yet, a year or two older
so you can buy booze, etc. You should go back as far as you can for the
death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people
can't do this in the future. The cutoff date in Wisconsin is 1979, folks
in this grand state gotta look in 1978 or earlier. Anything earier there
is cool. Now, this is the hardest part if you're younger. Brats that
young happen to be quite resilient, takin' falls out of three story windows
and eating rat poison like its Easter candy, and not a scratch or
dent. There ain't many that die, so ya gotta look your ass off. Go
down to the library and look up all the death notices you can,
if it's on microfilm so much the better. You might have to go through
months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it.
You gotta get someone who died locally in most instances: the death
certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you go down to
the county courthouse in the county where he died and get the
death certificate, this will cost you around $3-$5 depending on the state
you're in. Look at this hunk of paper, it could be your way to
vanish in a clould of smoke when the right time comes, like right after
that big scam. If You're lucky, the slobs parents signed him up with
social security when he was a snot nosed brat. That'll be another piece
of ID you can get. If not, thats ok too. It'll be listed on the death
certificate if he has one. If you're lucky, the stiff was born
locally and you can get his birth certificate right away.

STEP 2

Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in
the same place you standing now you're all set. If not, you can mail
away for one from that county but its a minor pain and it might
take a while to get, the librarian at the desk has listings of where
to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth
cirtificate, its worth the extra money to get it certified
because thats the only way some people will accept it for ID. When yur
gettin this stuff the little forms ask for the reason you want it,
instead of writing in "Fuck you", try putting in the word "Geneology".
They get this all the time.  If the Death certificate looks good for
you, wait a day or so before getting the certified birth certificate
in case they recognize someone wanting it for a dead guy.

STEP 3

Now your cookin! You got your start and the next part's easy.
Crank out your old Dot matrix printer and run off some mailing labels
addressed to you at some phony address. Take the time to check your
phony address that there is such a place. Hotels that rent by the month
or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip
code for the area. These are things that the cops might notice that
will trip you up.  Grab some old junk mail and paste your new lables
on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library.
Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that
you really aren't sure because your family moved around alot when
you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form
of ID when you get your card. If they want more give them a sob story
about how you were mugged and got your wallet stolen with all your
identification. Your card should be waiting for you in about two weeks.
Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can be your trusty Birth
Certificate, and they do allow letters addressed to you as a second
form.

STEP 4

Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should
have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old letters, or better yet
stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff.
Go to the county courthouse and show them what nice ID you got and get
a state ID card. Now you got a picture ID. This will take about two weeks
and cost about $5, its well worth it.

STEP 5

If the death certificate had a social security number on it you can go
out and buy one of those metal SS# cards that they sell.
If it didn't, then you got all kinds of pretty ID that shows exactly
who you are. If you don't yet have an SS#, Go down and apply for one,
these are free but they could take five or six weeks to get,
Bureaucrats you know... You can invent a SS# too if ya like, but the motto
of 'THE WALKING GLITCH' has always been "Why not excellence?".

STEP 6

If you want to go whole hog you can now get a bank account in your new
name.  If you plan to do alot of traveling then you can put alot
of money in the account and then say you lost the account book.  After
you get the new book you take out all the cash. They'll hit you
with a slight charge and maybe tie-up your money some, but if you're
ever broke in some small town that bank book will keep you from being
thrown in jail as a vagrant.

ALL DONE?

So kiddies, you got ID for buying booze, but what else? In some towns
(the larger the more likely) the cops if they catch you for something
petty like shoplifting stuff under a certain dollar amount, will just
give you a ticket, same thing for pissing in the street. Thats it!
No fingerprints or nothing, just pay the fine (almost always over $100)
or appear in court.  Of course they run a radio check on your ID, you'll
be clean and your alter-ego gets a blot on his record.
Your free and clear.  Thats worth the price of the trouble you've gone
through right there.  If your smart, you'll toss that ID away if this
happens, or better yet, tear off your picture and give the ID to someone
you don't like, maybe they'll get busted with it.
If you're a working stiff, here's a way to stretch your dollar. Go to work
for as long as it takes to get unemployment and then get yourself fired.
Go to work under the other name while your getting the unemployment.
With a couple of sets of ID, you can live like a king.  These concepts
for survival in the new age come to you compliments of THE WALKING GLITCH.
First release of this phile 7/7/88.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Counterfeiting Money                            by JRoger

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency.  If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal block.  Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color).  The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker.  The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical.  One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360.  Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
the back side.  After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table.  Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color.  Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats.  By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks).  Now you are ready to burn the plates.  Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it.  These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates.  Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate.  Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned.  Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate).  Develop all three plates.  You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations.  The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well.  Take the paper and load it into the press.  Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right.  Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).  Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in.  Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects.  Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side.  You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink.  You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right.  Now, clean the press and print
the other side.  You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat.  Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want.  Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter.  You should have printed a large amount of money by
now, but there is still one problem;  the paper is pure white.  To
dye it, mix the following in a pan:  2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this).  Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill.  Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used.  For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand.  Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA".  It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit.  A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting:  The Canon color laser
copier.  The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency.  But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used.  So, experiment, and good luck!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Credit Card Fraud:
-----------------

For most of you out there, money is hard to come by.  Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life.  The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.

Step One:  Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item:  someone's credit
card number.  The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store.  These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store.  But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult.  This is where your
phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them.  Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department.  We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification."  Of course, use
your imagination!  Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two:  Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card examples:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date.  The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process.  The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires.  The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX.  There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY    MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere.  The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code.  These codes are as follows:

[1]  MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2]  MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3]  MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use.  Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing.  Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage.  Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX.  Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three:  Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number.  By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge.  Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen.  To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases.  If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase.  He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number".  These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register.  It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in.  Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number.  Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date.  The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number.  Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it.  Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose.  However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase.  Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it.  Of course, some will not allow this.  Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase.  Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".

Step Four:  The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent.  NEVER use a drop more than once.  The following are
typical drop sites:

[1]  An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things.  Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS.  I work
days, 8 to 6.  Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?"  You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house.  Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area.  Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

[2]  Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for.  End your space when the package arrives.

[3]  People's houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address.  It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?"  This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes.  Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box.  Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five:  Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number.  Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult.  These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice.  They will ask for the following:  name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product.  Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order.  If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge.  Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser.  Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500.  In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud.  Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years.  Good luck!

First compiled in JRII..

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

The Art of Carding                              by the Jolly Roger

Obtaining a credit card number: There are many ways to obtain the
information needed to card something.
The most important things needed are the card number and the expiration
date.  Having the card-holders name doesn't hurt, but it is not essential.
The absolute best way to obtain all the information needed is by trashing.
The way this is done is simple.  You walk around your area or any other
area and find a store, mall, supermarket, etc., that throws their
garbage outside on the sidewalk or dumpster.  Rip the bag open and see
if you can find any carbons at all.  If you find little shreds of
credit card carbons, then it is most likely not worth your time to tape
together.  Find a store that does not rip their carbons at all or only in half.
Another way is to bullshit the number out of someone.  That is call them
up and say "Hello, this is Visa security and we have a report that
your card was stolen." They will deny it and you will try to get it out
of them from that point on.  You could say, "It wasn't stolen?  Well what
is the expiration date and maybe we can fix the problem....
Ok and what is the number on your card?......Thank you very much and
have a nice day."  Or think of something to that degree.
Another way to get card numbers is through systems such as TRW and CBI,
this is the hard way, and probably not worth the trouble, unless you are
an expert on the system.  Using credit card numbers posted on BBS's is
risky.  The only advantage is that there is a good chance that other
people will use it, thus decreasing the chances of being the
sole-offender.  The last method of getting numbers is very good also.
In most video rental stores, they take down your credit card number
when you join to back-up your rentals.  So if you could manage to steal
the list or make a copy of it, then you are set for a LONG time.
Choosing a victim: Once you have the card number, it is time to make the
order.  The type of places that are easiest to victimize are small
businesses that do mail order or even local stores that deliver.
If you have an ad for a place with something you want and the order number
is NOT a 1-800 number then chances are better that you will succeed.
Ordering: When you call the place up to make the order, you must have
several things readily at hand.
These are the things you will need: A name, telephone number, business
phone, card number (4 digit bank code if the card is MasterCard),
expiration date, and a complete shipping and billing address.
I will talk about all of these in detail.  A personal tip: When I call
to make an order, it usually goes much smoother if the person you are
talking to is a woman.  In many cases they are more gullible than men.
The name:  You could use the name on the card or the name of the person
who you are going to send the merchandise to.  Or you could use the name
on the card and have it shipped to the person who lives at the drop
(Say it is a gift or something).
The name is really not that important because when the company verifies
the card, the persons name is never mentioned, EXCEPT when you have a
Preffered Visa card.  Then the name is mentioned.  You can tell if you
have a Preffered Visa card by the PV to the right of the expiration
date on the carbon. Nophone all day long waiting for the company to call
(Which they will), then the phone number to give them as your home-phone
could be one of the following: A number that is ALWAYS busy, a number
that ALWAYS rings, a payphone number, low end of a loop (and you will wait
on the other end), or a popular BBS.
NEVER give them your home phone because they will find out as soon as
the investigation starts who the phone belongs to.  The best thing would
be to have a payphone call forward your house
(via Cosm The business number:  When asked for, repeat the number you
used for your home phone.
Card number: The cards you will use will be Visa, Mastercard, and
American Express.  The best is by far Visa.  It is the most
straight-forward.  Mastercard is pretty cool except for the bank code.
When they ask for the bank code, they sometimes also ask for the bank
that issued it.  When they ask that just say the biggest bank you know of
in your area.  Try to avoid American Express.  They tend to lead full
scale investigations.  Unfortunately, American Express is the most popular
card out.   When telling the person who is taking your call the card
number, say it slow, clear, and with confidence.
e.g. CC# is 5217-1234-5678-9012.  Pause after each set of four so you
don't have to repeat it.
Expiration date: The date must be at LEAST in that month.  It is best
to with more than three months to go.
The address: More commonly referred to as the 'drop'.  Well the drop
can range from an abandoned building to your next door neighbors
apartment.  If you plan to send it to an apartment building then be
sure NOT to include an apartment number.  This will confuse UPS or postage
men a little and they will leave the package in the lobby.
Here is a list of various drops: The house next door whose family is on
vacation, the apartment that was just moved out of, the old church that
will be knocked down in six months, your friends house who has absolutely
nothing to do with the type of merchandise you will buy and who will
also not crack under heat from feds, etc..
There are also services that hold merchandise for you, but personally
I would not trust them.  And forget about P.O. Boxes because you need
ID to get one and most places don't ship to them anyway.
Other aspects of carding:Verifying cards, seeing if they were reported
stolen.
Verifying cards: Stores need to verify credit cards when someone purchases
something with one.  They call up a service that checks to see if the
customer has the money in the bank.
The merchant identifies himself with a merchant number.  The service
then holds the money that the merchant verified on reserve.  When the
merchant sends in the credit card form, the service sends the merchant
the money.  The service holds the money for three days and if no form
appears then it is put back into the bank.  The point is that if you
want to verify something then you should verify it for a little amount
and odds are that there will be more in the bank.
The good thing about verification is that if the card doesn't exist or
if it is stolen then the service will tell you.  To verify MasterCard
and Visa try this number.  It is voice:1-800-327-1111 merchant code is
596719.
Stolen cards: Mastercard and Visa come out with a small catalog every
week where they publish EVERY stolen or fraudulantly used card.
I get this every week by trashing the same place on the same day.
If you ever find it trashing then try to get it every week.
Identifying cards: Visa card numbers begin with a 4 and have either 13
or 16 digits.  MasterCard card numbers begin with a 5 and have 16 digits.
American Express begins with a 3 and has 15 digits.  They all have the
formats of the following:
3xxx-xxxxxx-xxxxx   American Express
4xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx    Visa
4xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx Visa
5xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx MasterCard
Gold cards: A gold card simply means that credit is good for $5000.
Without a gold card, credit would be normally $2000.
To recognize a gold card on a carbon there are several techniques:
American Express-none.
Visa-PV instead of CV.
Note-When verifying a PV Visa, you have to have the real name of the
cardholder.
Mastercard-An asterix can signify a gold card, but this changes depending
when the card was issued.
I am going to type out a dialog between a carder and the phone operator
to help you get the idea.
Operator: "Over-priced Computer Goods, may I help you?"
Carder:   "Hi, I would like to place an order please."
Operator: "Sure, what would you like to order?"
Carder:   "400 generic disks and a double density drive."
Operator: "Ok, is there anything else?"
Carder:   "No thank you, that's all for today."
Operator: "Ok, how would you like to pay for this?  MasterCard or Visa?"
Carder:   "Visa."
Operator: "And your name is?"
Carder:   "Lenny Lipshitz." (Name on card)
Operator: "And your Visa card number is?"
Carder:   "4240-419-001-340" (Invalid card)
Operator: "Expiration date?"
Carder:   "06-92."
Operator: "And where would you like the package shipped to?"
Carder:   "6732 Goatsgate Port.  Paris,texas,010166."
Operator: "And what is your home telephone number?"
Carder:   "212-724-9970" (This number is actually always busy)
Operator: "I will also need your business phone number in case we have
to reach you."
Carder:   "You can reach me at the same number. 212-724-9970"
Operator: "O.K. Thank you very much and have nice day."
Carder:   "Excuse me, when will the package arrive?"
Operator: "In six to seven days UPS."
Carder:   "Thanks alot, and have a pleasant day."
Now you wait 6-7 days when the package will arrive to the address which
is really a house up for sale.  There will be a note on the door
saying, "Hello UPS, please leave all packages for Lenny Lipshitz in the
lobby or porch.  Thanks alot, Lenny Lipshitz" (Make the signature half-way
convincing)

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Recognizing credit cards                        by the Jolly Roger

[Sample: American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2       Y1
John Doe               AX

Explanation:
The first date is the date the person got the card, the second
date is the expriation date, after the expiration date is the same
digits in the first year.The American Express Gold has many more
numbers (I think 6 8 then 8). If you do find a Gold card keep it
for it has a $5000.00 backup even when the guy has no money!

[Sample: Master Card]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
John Doe.

Explanation:
The format varies, I have never seen a card that did not start with
a 5XXX there is another 4 digits on the next line that is sometimes
asked for when ordering stuff, (and rarely a 3 digit letter combo
(e. ANB). The first date is the date the person got the card
and the second date is the expiration date.
Master Card is almost always accepted at stores.
[Sample: VISA]
XXXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY    MM/YY*VISA
John Doe

Explanation:
Visa is the most straight forward
of the cards,for it has the name right on the card itself, again the
first date is the date he got the card and the second is the
expiration date. (Sometimes the first date is left out). The
numbers can eather be 4 3 3 3 or 4 4 4 4. Visa is also almost always
accepted at stores, therefore, the best of cards to use.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Jackpotting ATM Machines                courtesy of the Jolly Roger

JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it)
New York. What the culprits did was:
Sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the
host. insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. insert
a fradulent card into the ATM.  (card=cash card, not hardware)
What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey!  Can I
give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?"
What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host,
discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal.
What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay,
then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM.
What the microcomputer did was:
intercept signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow!  That
guy is like TOO rich!  Give him as much money as he wants.  In
fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have!  He is
really a valued customer." signal.
What the ATM did:
what else?  Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or
very nearly so).
What the crooks got:
well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several
years when they were caught.
This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while
ago to demonstrate the need for better information security.  The
lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that
the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any
way.  One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt
the information passing between the ATM and the host.  As long as the
key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and
hence the transaction) is secure.
A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person
who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key
before actually fooling the host.  As everyone knows, people find
cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject...don't they?
(Hee-Hee)

_____             ______
|   |-<<-|   |-<<-|    |
|ATM|    micro    |Host|
|___|->>-|   |->>
-|____|

The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host
computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there
is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host
computer. This guy basically bs'ed his way over the phone till he
found someone stupid enough to give him th number. After finding that,
he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple.
Step 2: He had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He
stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend
inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple
modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's
memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing
purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to
do.
The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received,
talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The
manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job
waiting for him when he got out of school.
Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On
the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole
country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less
have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows?

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Ripping off Change Machines                     by the Jolly Roger

Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports
laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5
dollar bill?  Well then, here is an article for you.

1)  Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length
wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the
tray in!!!
2)  After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill.  Start crumpling
up into a ball.  Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly
surface.
3) Now the hard part.  You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the
machine.  Put the bill in the machine and wait.  What should happen is:
when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine.
When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the
machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right)
give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill
back, plus the change!!  It might take a little practice, but once
you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
!--------------------------------!
!                                !
! (1)         /-------\      (1) !
!             !       !          !
!             !  Pic. !          !
! (1)  /\     \-------/      (1) !
!      !!                        !
!-----/  \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1)

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

This is another good way to                     Compiled by:
rip off a change or drink machine....                   -= Exodus =-


You first get a nice new dollar to work with.  Make sure there are no
rips in it.  Now, you get a thin piece of transparent plastic about
3/4 the width of the actual dollar.  It must be a good 6" or longer.
Next, you need some transparant tape.  Scotch magic tape will work
the best.  You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar.  But, you
must be careful not to tape it more than 1/2" up the side of the dollar.
tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar.
Now, all you have to do is use it:

Walk casually up to the secluded machine.  Take out your dollar, and put
it into the machine.  BE CAREFUL! Some of the more modern change machines
have alarms!  Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not.  Now,
the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic
strip is almost all the way into the machine, and then you pull with
sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it.  If
You did it correctly, you should have gotten whatever you bought, and still
have your dollar for later use.  On candy machines, though, make your
selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out.  Don't worry if you don't
get it on the first few tries.  It took me about 5 tries to master it.  It
DOES, i repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly.  If you just can't
get it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the
tape up too high on the dollar.  Have fun!!!!

a little annex to the cookbook from
ACID FLESH


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-




Electronic Accessories

<--Every Phreaker Needs His Own-->



Some phreaks believe in the down-n-dirty customizing of equipment by
crafting it themselves...not me !.  I believe that the other guy
should build the stuff, and I'll steal it and use it later.  This is
a list of places where one can obtain the devices that would other
wise have to be built by hand.  But after all, a good phreak can
take a pre-made item and adapt it to his needs.....



**COOL STUFF::**



Radar Jammers:
--------------

The "Eclipse"
$199.00

T.E.K. Distributers
P.O. Box 32287
Fridley, MN 55432

612-783-1666



Surveillance:
-------------

fone bugging, fone recording sys., etc...


EDE
P.O. Box 337
Buffalo, NY 14226

(716)-691-3476

catalog $5



USI Corp.,
P.O. Box PM-2052
Melbourne, FL 32902

catalog: $2
407-725-1000



Protector
P.O. Box 520294-M
Salt Lake City, UT 84152

(801)-487-3823
catalog $5



FREE catalog:
1-800-732-5000



SpyMart
P.O. Box 340-M
Morehead City, NC 28557

catalog $4



MICRO-VIDEO:
------------

SUPERCIRCUITS
13552 Research Blvd. #B-2
Austin, TX 78750

catalog $3



Scanners:
---------

CRB
P.O. Box 56
Commack, NY 11725

FREE catalog



HPR
P.O. Box 19224PM
Denver, CO 80219
(request information, I guess!?)


MISC::
------



INFORMATION UNLIMITED        <<<---REALLY COOL SHIT, THE GOOD STUFF.
P.O. Box 716, Dept. PM294          (kinda expensive, so get ready to
Amherst, NH 03031                                CARD!!)

FREE catalog (w/order, otherwise $1.00)


EDMUND SCIENTIFIC   (always a fucking GREAT place to find the little
Dept. 14D2,                 nitty-gritty electronics that make up
C908 EdsCorp Bldg.                    colored boxes, and the like)
Barrington, NJ 08007



Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


U.K. CREDIT CARD FRAUD - 22/10/90 - Written by CREDITMAN

U.K. credit card fraud is a lot  easier  than over in the States.  The
same basic 3 essentials are needed -

1...A safehouse.
2...Credit card numbers with Xp date and address.
3...Good suppliers of next day delivery goods.

1...The Safehouse
The safehouse should be on the ground floor, so as not to piss off
the delivery man when he comes  to  drop off your freshly stolen gear.
If he has to go up 10 flights in  a complete dive and some 14 year old
kid signs for an A2000 then he's gonna wonder!  Make sure there are no
nosey neighbours, a good area is one  full of yuppies 'cos they all go
to work during daytime.  Safehouses  are  usually obtained by paying a
month's rent in  advance  or  putting  down  a  deposit  of say, œ200.
Either that or break into a place and use that.

2...Credit Card Numbers.
The card number, expiry  date,  start  date  (if  possible), full name
(including middle inital), phone number and full address with postcode
are ideal.  If you can  only  get  the  sirname,  and no postcode, you
shouldn't have any real hassle.  Just  say  you moved recently to your
new address.  Phone number is handy, if it just rings and rings but if
it doesn't, then make  sure  it's  ex-directory.   You CANNOT get away
with giving them a bullshit  phone  number.  Some fussy companies want
phone numbers just to cross-check  on  CARDNET  but generally it's not
needed.  To recap, here's a quick check-list...


1.Card number and Xpiry date.
2.Name and address of card holder.
3.First name/initials (OPTIONAL)
4.Start date (OPTIONAL)
5.Postcode (OPTIONAL)
6.Phone number (OPTIONAL)

If you have all 6, then you  shouldn't have any hassle.  Start date is
the rarest item you could  be  asked  for,  postcode and initals being
more common.  If you are missing 3-6 then you need one helluva smooth-
talking bastard on the phone line!!!!

3...The Ordering
Not everyone can order œ1000's of stuff  - it's not easy.  You have to
be cool, smooth and  have  some  good  answers  to their questions.  I
advise that you only order up to œ500 worth of stuff in one go, but if
you have details 1-6 and the phone number will NOT be answered from 9-
5.30 P.M. then go up to  œ1000  (make  sure  it's a GOLD card!).  When
getting ready to order make sure you  have at least 3 times the amount
of suppliers you need e.g.if you want to card 5 hard-drives, make sure
you have 15 suppliers.  A lot of  the time, they are either out stock,
can't do next day delivery or won't deliver to a different address.
Quick check list of what you must ask before handing over number -

1.Next day delivery, OK?
2.Ordered to different address to card, OK?
3.Do you have item in stock (pretty obvious, eh?)

Make sure you ask  ALL  of  these  questions  before handing over your
precious number.

Excuses...
Usual excuses for a  different  address  are  that  it's  a present or
you're on business here for the  next  5  weeks etc.  Any old bullshit
why it won't go to the proper address.

WARNING!*******Invoices!*******WARNING!
Invoices are sometimes sent out  with  the  actual parcel but they are
also sent out to the  card  owners  (why  do  you  think they need the
address for?) so using a safehouse for more than 2 days is risky.  A 1
day shot is safe, if they catch  on then they'll stop the goods before
getting a search warrant.

Credit Limits...
Limits on cards reach from œ500 to  œ4000 on Gold cards.  Your average
card will be about œ1000-œ1500.  It takes  a  while to build up a good
credit rating in order to have large  limits so don't think every card
will hold 12 IBM 386's!  Visa  and  Access  are always used - American
Xpress etc. are USELESS.

Access = Eurocard, Mastercard (begins with 5)
Visa = (begins with 4, 16 digit is a Gold)

A general rule is, always  confirm  an  order  to  make sure credit is
cleared.  As the month goes on, credit is  used up - the bad times are
from 27th - 3rd which is  when  all  the  bills come in.  Best time to
card is around 11th or 12th, when  the  poor guy has paid off his last
bill so you can run up a new one (he, he, he!).

Ideal items to card...

The best stuff is always computer hard-ware as it's next-day.  Amigas,
ST's, PC's -  anything  really.   Blank  discs  are  a  waste of time,
they're too heavy.  Xternal drives,  monitors  - good stuff basically.
Don't  order  any  shit   like   VCR's,  hi-fi,  video-cameras,  music
keyboards, computer software, jewerely or anything under œ300.  You'll
find the listed items  are  difficult  to  get  next  day delivery and
usually won't deliver to a  different  address - bastards, eh?  You're
wasting your time with little items under œ300, try to keep deliveries
under 10 a day.

The drop....
Two ways of doing the drop

1.Sign for all the gear (make  sure you're there between 9.00 and
5.30 P.M.)

2.Don't turn up till around 6.30  P.M.  and collect all the cards
that the delivery man has left.  These usually say 'you were out at XX
time so could you please  arrange  new  time  for  delivery or pick up
from our depot'.  In that case, piss off  to the depot and get all the
gear (need a big car!).

Remember, carding is ILLEGAL  kiddies,  so  don't  do it unless you're
going to cut me on it!!!!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS                              by: Exodus

In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she
wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the
chemicals to make the explosive from a lab.  A list of such chemicals in order
of priority would probably resemble the following:

LIQUIDS                    SOLIDS
_______                    ______

____     Nitric Acid        ____    Potassium Perchlorate
____     Sulfuric Acid      ____    Potassium Chlorate
____     95% Ethanol        ____    Picric Acid (usually a powder)
____     Toluene            ____    Ammonium Nitrate
____     Perchloric Acid    ____    Powdered Magnesium
____     Hydrochloric Acid  ____    Powdered Aluminum
____    Potassium Permanganate
GASES                       ____    Sulfur (flowers of)
_______                     ____    Mercury
____    Potassium Nitrate
____     Hydrogen           ____    Potassium Hydroxide
____     Oxygen             ____    Phosphorus
____     Chlorine           ____    Sodium Azide
____     Carbon Dioxide     ____    Lead Acetate
____    Barium Nitrate
Print this sheet out and carry it with you!  Memorize it, anything.  It is
INVALUABLE.  All of these chemicals should be carried in your school lab.
Happy hunting. :)

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


-------**>> LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION <<**--------

Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained
through a public or university library.  There are also many publications that
are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to
make explosives at home.  Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary
magazines and newspapers.  This list is presented to show the large number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from.   It also
includes fireworks companies and the like.


COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS               WHAT COMPANY SELLS
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ               ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
FULL AUTO CO. INC.                     EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881                          PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133

UNLIMITED                              CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838

AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS                FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30                              SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328

BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.             BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET                     AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060

CROSSMAN AIR GUNS                      AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692

R. ALLEN                               PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION
P.O. BOX 146                           BOOKS & FORMULAS
WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090

MJ DISTRIBUTING                        FIREWORKS FORMULAS
P.O. BOX 10585
YAKIMA,WA   98909

EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.     TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.                    PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509


COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS               WHAT COMPANY SELLS
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ               ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.              CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS  BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547

NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.         CLASS "C" FIREWORKS  P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095

RAINBOW TRAIL                          CLASS "C" FIREWORKS  BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028

STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.              CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS  4010 NEW
WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878

WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.              CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11                            (GOOD PRICES!)
ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975

BOOKS
ÄÄÄÄÄ
THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK II-IV          (highly circulated)

THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL    (formulas work, but put maker at risk)

MILITARY EXPLOSIVES


Two manuals of interest:  Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly
useful for rock and seismographic operations.  Atlas's "Powder Manual" or
"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office).  This is a
$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.



Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS

The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A
blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or
poisoned projectile.  The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is
not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the
addresses given in the introduction.

Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule,
such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill
capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores.  Next, the capsule
would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate.
An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact
sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used.

Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel
or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure
that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.

Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the
tassel or cotton, and look something like this:


____________________
/mercury |           \-----------------------
(fulminate|   R.D.X.   )---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------


Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could
easily blow the back of your head off.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS

A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon.  It can throw a shooter marble
about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy.  Inside of 200 ft., it could well be
lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area.  Because of the
relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.

A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating
device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.

Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted
with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot.  One would have to
make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did
not explode before it reached its intended target.

Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber
blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they
must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS

When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with
a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be
difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.  There
is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition.  If the ammunition
is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the
slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur.  For
this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS

If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive
explosive and a few simple tools.  One would first purchase all lead bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive.  By drilling a hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of
an explosive.  After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in
the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.  A diagram of a completed
exploding bullet is shown below.


_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|

This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.

In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing
"exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet.
Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury
reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS

Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some
extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell
is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then,
if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the
bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched
weapons.

Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the
shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end
of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.

Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used.
This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect
4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it
must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel
back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the
dowel.

Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire
the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are
possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below:

____
||  |
||  |
||  | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
||  |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
||
||

Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank
ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS

This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns,
and .22 cal pellet guns.  These weapons, although usually thought of as kids
toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.


SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS

A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or
pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a
muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177
caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made
that has a caliber of .177.

Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to
ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores,
since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when
struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown
at a hard surface at a great speed.

Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are
inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard
surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as
that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed,
and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below:


_____ primers _______
|                    |
|                    |
|                    |
V                    V
______                ______
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |-------------------   cotton
|_____                _____|-------------------
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing

The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The
tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer.  The entire projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.



SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS

A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
close ranges.  Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.  A design similar to that used in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one
would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber.  A #11
cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

ROCKETS AND CANNONS

Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are
difficult or impossible to acquire.  They are not, however, impossible to
make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such
things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to
fear.


ROCKETS

Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before
the myth of christ began.  They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable.  In modern times, however, rockets
are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have
no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military
rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines.  Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required.  Estes,
a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines.  Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12
lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger
rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust.  These model rocket
engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically.  Most
model rocket engines have three basic sections.  The diagram below will help
explain them.


_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay   | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|            casing
\_______|  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * |  . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - -  | smoke | eject  |a|
/ clay  |  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing


The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted.  When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of
hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward.

After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is
ignited.  It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,
white, or yellow in color.  This section exists so that the rocket will be
seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.

When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".
The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder.  It burns very rapidly,
exploding, in effect.  The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the
parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a
bomb...

Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system.  Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5.  The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine.  "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on.  The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a 3 second delay.

NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide.
The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.


BASIC ROCKET BOMB

A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
to its target by means of a rocket.  Most people who would make such a device
would use a model rocket engine to power the device.  By cutting fins from
balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C"
engine, a basic rocket could be constructed.  Then, by attaching a "crater
maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added.  To insure
that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over
the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool.
The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.



____________ rocket engine
|                         _________ crater maker
|                         |
|                         |
V                         |
_______________________________V_
|_______________________________|  ______________________
\   | - - - - - -|***|::::|      /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___/  # # # # # # # # # # # \
__  - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # #  explosive  # # )
/  | - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___   # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|

thrust> - - - - - -
smoke>  ***
ejection charge> ::::


Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such
as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.

Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that
the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:



|\
| \
|  \
|   \  <--------- glue this to rocket engine
|    \
|     \
|      \
|       |
|       |
|       |
leading edge    |
------->
       |
|       |
|       |  trailing edge
|       |    <--------
|       |
|       |
|       |
|       |
\_____/


The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
that they are rounded.  This will help make the rocket fly straight.  A two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch
it from.  A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod.  The segment
of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the
fins of the rocket.  A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.


|
fin                | <------ fin
|                 |           |
|                 |           |
|               __|__         |
V              /     \        V
---------------|       |---------------
\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|

By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a
launch rod can be made.  After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic
straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one
illustated on the following page:


____
/    \
|      |
cut here _____     |
|     |
|     |
|    / \
V   /   \
_________________/     \________________
/                                        \
/                                          \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|


Bend wire to this shape:


_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\  <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|


LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB

Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.  Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-stage rockets.  An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of
such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection
charge explodes.  If another engine is placed directly against the back of an
"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and
burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the
thrust section.  This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing
an overall loss of weight.

The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as
travels, and it gains velocity.  A multi-stage rocket must be designed
somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket
to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.
This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving
the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the
rocket.  A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:

___
/   \
|   |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
|   |
|   |
|___|
|   |
|   |
|   |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/  | 5 |  \
/   |___|   \ ---- fin
/   /|   |\   \
/   / |   | \   \
/   /  |   |  \   \
/   /   | C |   \   \
|   /    | 6 |    \   |
|  /     | | |     \  |
| /      | 0 |      \ |
|/       |___|       \|
|       /     \       |
\______/   ^   \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine

The fuse is put in the bottom engine.

Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it
a longer range.  It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the
fin area gets larger.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Blowgun                                         by The Jolly Roger

In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture
of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of
the blow gun described in this article IS a felony.
So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.

Needed:

1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece)
2. A regular pencil
3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not
obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle.
4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter

Constructing the dart:

1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser)
of the pencil till it comes off.
2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then
push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape).
3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)

#####
>>>>>-----/    #  is the yarn
>  is the head of the pencil
-  is the pin it-self
/  is the head of the pin

Using the Darts:

1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube
(if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3rd- blow on the end of the pipe.
4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I
suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel
a lot better.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Home-brew blast cannon                          by The Jolly Roger

Materials needed:

-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon

Procedure:

- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends

- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.

- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:

/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!

Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.

- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch

- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.

- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'

- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3                                       the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5

Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.

- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)

- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.

- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!

To Test:

Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-






BASIC PIPE CANNON                                -= Exodus =-


A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.  The only
difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.  Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick
to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.

If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile
can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal.  Such
a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth on the interior.  If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or
tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the
crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two
teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by
ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge.
Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run.
If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will
not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel.  Such a cannon would look like this:


__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
________________________________________________________________
| |_____________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|

An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue paper packing wad.


___
When the cannon is fired, it           (   )
will ignite the end of the              |C  |
fuse, and shoot the CO2                 |  M|
cartridge. The                          |   |
explosive-filled cartridge              |   |
will explode in about three             \  /
seconds, if all goes well.               [] <--- taped fuse
Such a projectile would look             []
like this:                               []
!  <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads)
ROCKET FIRING CANNON


___          A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a
/   \    normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A
|   |    rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket
| C |    alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
| M |    initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is
|   |    moving will go further than one that is launched when it
|   |    is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal
|___|    rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look
| E |    like the image to the left.
| N |
| G |         the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short,
| I |    but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection
| N |    charge exploded.  Thus, the delay before the ejection
| E |    charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
|___|    explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and
simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.


REINFORCED PIPE CANNON

In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc,
etc.  However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here.

It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead.

Here is a cross section:


_______
|     |
| xxxxx_____________________________________________    2" ID pipe
| |_________________________________________________
| | ....................  <- steel wire           }
| |    _____                                      }     3/4" ID pipe
this  | |    | xxx______________________________________}_________________
wire  | |    | |__________________________________________________________
holds | |....| |
it up |>
|....| |
in the| |    | |__________________________________________________________
cooker| |    | xxx________________________________________________________
| |    |____                                      }
| | .....................                         } <- cast lead
| |_______________________________________________}_
| |    _____________________________________________
| xxxxx
|_____|


We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick.
Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on
some bricks.  We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe
was red hot.  Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes.  If
the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out.  If
that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the
lead will stiffen and stop the leak.

We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun
powder in this thing.  After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no
evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Portable Grenade Launcher                       by the Jolly Roger

If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an
aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade
FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole
left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you
are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of
aluminum go all over the place!!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower                      by The Jolly Roger

For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of
the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-




Down the Road' Missle



This missle is aptly named because it travels best down a street or road. This
is nothing more that harmless phun intended to scare the living shit out of
oncoming cars.

How To Make A Missle
--------------------

All you need are :

-Hairspray can, or something else with flammable propellant (don't use
spraypaint dipshit, it makes a big mess!)

-book of ordinary matches

-tape (clear if possible, its thinner)

-BB or pellet gun (use BB's if possible)


Instructions:
-------------

Tape the book of matches to the bottom of the can, y'know, the CONCAVE part.
You might want to arrange the matches so that they are spread over a wide area
of the bottom of the can, but close together.
Shake the can up vigorously. Now place the can on its side with the
nozzle of the can pointed in the direction you want it to go, down a road, off
a ramp, at your sister, etc.. Now stand back a bit, and shoot at the matches.
It should take off at about 30 ft per sec!!  What happens in case you couldn't
tell, is the BB hits the matches and causes a spark, and at roughly the same
time, punctures the weak bottom of the can.  As the propellant sprays out, it
hopefully comes in contact with the spark, and presto. If you dont do it right
you'll blow a lot of money because each can can only be used once, so
experiment to find best results.


In The Air Missle
-----------------

Compile the rocket as stated before, and put it verticle on a stand of some
sort with the bottom accessable.  Place a section of PVC pipe 95 deg.
preferred and shoot into the PVC pipe which should direct the BB upward, and
the can should take off.  Experiment w/ different cans, its hard to find ones
that work perfectly, and still go higher than 30 ft.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Low Signature Systems (Silencers)                  by the Jolly Roger

Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons
can be made from steel gas or water pipe and fittings.

Material Required:
-----------------
Grenade Container
Steel pipe nipple, 6 in. (15 cm) long - (see table 1 for diameter)
2 steel pipe couplings - (see table 2 for dimensions)
Cotton cloth - (see table 2)
Drill
Absorbent cotton

Procedure:
---------
1) Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter
of pipe nipple. (see table 1)

->    /----------------------\
/     |                        |
2.75 in |      )                      ( <-holes
dia.   \     |                        |
->   \-----------------------/

|-----------------------|
5 in.

2) Drill four rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use table 1 for diameter and
location of holes.

(Note: I suck at ASCII art!)

6 in.
|-----------------------------------|
_____________________________________ ___
| O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O |  | C (nom. dia.)
-------------------------------------
(size of hole)   |                   \ / (space between)
B (dia.)             A


3) Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple.
4) Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread fully into low
signature system. Barrel should butt against end of the drilled pipe
nipple.
5) Seperate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half.
6) Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom
half of the container. Pack theabsorbent cotton inside the container and
around the pipe nipple.
7) Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving
hole in center. Assemble container to the bottom half.
8) Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.

Note: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same "A" and "B"
dimensions as those given, will furthur reduce the signature of the
system.

How to use:
----------

1) Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely.
2) Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system
(see table 2)
3) Load weapon
4) Weapon is now ready for use

TABLE 1 -- Low Signature System Dimensions
------------------------------------------

(Coupling)  Holes per   (4 rows)
A         B         C         D         Row        Total
------------------------------------------------------------------------
.45 cal        3/8       1/4       3/8       3/8       12           48

.38 cal        3/8       1/4       1/4       1/4       12           48

9 mm         3/8       1/4       1/4       1/4       12           48

7.62 mm        3/8       1/4       1/4       1/4       12           48

.22 cal        1/4       5/32      1/8*      1/8       14           50
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Extra Heavy Pipe
(All dimensions in inches)


TABLE 2 -- Cotton Wadding - Sizes
---------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------
Weapon                        Cotton Wadding Size
-------------------------------------------------
.45 cal                       1-1/2 x 6 inches

.38 cal                       1 x 4 inches

9 mm                        1 x 4 inches

7.62 mm                       1 x 4 inches

.22 cal                       Not needed
-------------------------------------------------

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Highway radar jamming                       by The Jolly Roger

Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors!       HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-

P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Do ya hate school?                  by The Jolly Roger

- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).

- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).

- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.

- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.

- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.

- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!

- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.

- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.

-Get a virus from The Black Gate BBS, and infect their computers!
Most likely they use WordPerfect, Excel, and shit like that.


- USE YOUR IMAGINATION!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

A Guide to Hypnotism                     Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the uppercase!)

+-------------------+
! WHAT HYPNOTISM IS !
+-------------------+

HYPNOTISM, CONTRARY TO COMMON BELEIF, IS MERELY STATE WHEN YOUR MIND AND
BODY ARE IN A STATE OF RELAXATION AND YOUR MIND IS OPEN TO POSITIVE, OR
CLEVERLY WORDED NEGATIVE, INFLUENCES.  IT IS NOT A TRANCE WHERE YOU:
> ARE TOTALLY INFLUENCABLE.
> CANNOT LIE.
> A SLEEP WHICH YOU CANNOT WAKE UP FROM
WITHOUT HELP.
THIS MAY BRING DOWN YOUR HOPE SOMEWHAT, BUT, HYPNOTISM IS A POWERFUL FOR
SELF HELP, AND/OR MISCHEIF.

+-----------------------+
! YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND !
+-----------------------+

BEFORE GOING IN FURTHER, I'D LIKE TO STATE THAT HYPNOTISM NOT ONLY IS
GREAT IN THE WAY THAT IT RELAXES YOU AND GETS YOU (IN THE LONG RUN) WHAT
YOU WANT, BUT ALSO THAT IT TAPS A FORCE OF INCREDIBLE POWER, BELEIVE IT OR
NOT, THIS POWER IS YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND ALWAYS KNOWS WHAT IS GOING ON WITH EVERY PART OF YOUR BODY,
EVERY MOMENT OF THE DAY.  IT PROTECTS YOU FROM NEGATIVE INFLUENCES,
AND RETAINS THE POWER TO SLOW YOUR HEARTBEAT DOWN AND STUFF LIKE THAT.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND HOLDS JUST ABOUT ALL THE INFO YOU WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
ABOUT YOURSELF, OR, IN THIS CASE, THE PERSON YOU WILL BE HYPNOTISING.
THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS AND HAVE IT TALK BACK TO
YOU. ONE WAY IS THE OUJA BOARD, NO ITS NOT A SPIRIT, MERELY THE
MINDS OF THOSE WHO ARE USING IT.  ANOTHER, WHICH I WILL DISCUSS HERE,
IS THE PENDULUM METHOD.  OK, HERE IS HOW IT GOES.
FIRST, GET A RING OR A WASHER AND TIE IT TO A THREAD A LITTLE LONGER THAN
HALF OF YOUR FOREARM.  NOW, TAKE A SHEET OF PAPER AND DRAW A BIG CIRCLE IN
IT.  IN THE BIG CIRCLE YOU MUST NOW DRAW A CROSSHAIR (A BIG +).  NOW, PUT
THE SHEET OF PAPER ON A TABLE.  NEXT, HOLD THE THREAD WITH THE RING OR
WASHER ON IT AND PLACE IT (HOLDING THE THREAD SO THAT THE RING IS 1 INCH
ABOVE THE PAPER SWINGING) IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR.  NOW, SWING
THE THREAD SO THE WASHER GOES UP AND DOWN, SAY TO YOURSELF THE WORD "YES"
NOW, DO IT SIDE TO SIDE AND SAY THE WORD "NO".
DO IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DON'T KNOW".
AND LASTLY, DO IT CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DONT WANT TO SAY." NOW, WITH THE
THREAD BACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR, ASK YOURSELF QUESTIONS AND
WAIT FOR THE PENDULUM TO SWING IN THE DIRECTION FOR THE ANSWER. (YES, NO,
I DONT KNOW OR I DONT WANNA SAY...). SOON, TO YOUR AMAZEMENT, IT WILL BE
ANSWERING QUESTIONS LIKE ANYTHING... LET THE PENDULUM ANSWER, DONT TRY..
WHEN YOU TRY YOU WILL NEVER GET AN ANSWER.  LET THE ANSWER COME TO YOU.

+-------------------------+
! HOW TO INDUCE HYPNOTISM !
+-------------------------+

NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND, I WILL NOW TELL YOU
HOW TO GUIDE SOMEONE INTO HYPNOSIS. NOTE THAT I SAID GUIDE, YOU CAN NEVER,
HYNOTISE SOMEONE, THEY MUST BE WILLING. OK, THE SUBJECT MUST BE LYING OR
SITTING IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION, RELAXED, AND AT A TIME WHEN THINGS ARENT
GOING TO BE INTERRUPTED.
TELL THEM THE FOLLOWING OR SOMETHING CLOSE TO IT, IN A PEACEFUL, MONOTINOUS
TONE (NOT A COMMANDING TONE OF VOICE)

NOTE:  LIGHT A CANDLE AND PLACE IT SOMEWHERE WHERE IT CAN BE EASILY SEEN.

TAKE A DEEP BREATH THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND HOLD IT IN FOR A COUNT OF 8. NOW,
THROUGH YOUR MOUTH, EXHALE COMPLETELY AND SLOWLY. CONTINUED BREATHING LONG,
DEEP, BREATHS THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND EXHALING THROUGH YOUR MOUTH.  TENSE UP
ALL YOUR MUSCLES VERY TIGHT, NOW, COUNTING FROM TEN TO ONE, RELEASE THEM
SLOWLY, YOU WILL FIND THEM VERY RELAXED.  NOW, LOOK AT THE CANDLE, AS
YOU LOOK AT IT, WITH EVERY BREATH AND PASSING MOMEMENT, YOU ARE FEELING
INCREASINGLY MORE AND MORE PEACEFUL AND RELAXED.  THE CANDLES FLAME IS
PEACEFUL AND BRIGHT.
AS YOU LOOK AT IT I WILL COUNT FROM 100 DOWN, AS A COUNT, YOUR EYES WILL
BECOME MORE AND MORE RELAXED, GETTING MORE AND MORE TIRED WITH EACH
PASSING MOMENT."
NOW, COUNT DOWN FROM 100, ABOUT EVERY 10 NUMBERS SAY "WHEN I REACH XX YOUR
EYES (OR YOU WILL FIND YOUR EYES) ARE BECOMING MORE AND MORE TIRED."  TELL
THEM THEY MAY CLOSE THEIR EYES WHENEVER THEY FEEL LIKE IT.  IF THE PERSONS
EYES ARE STILL OPEN WHEN YOU GET TO 50 THEN INSTEAD OF SAYING
"YOUR EYES WILL.."
SAY "YOUR EYES ARE...".
WHEN THEIR EYES ARE SHUT SAY THE FOLLOWING. AS YOU LIE (OR SIT) HERE WITH
YOUR EYES COMFORTABLY CLOSE YOU FIND YOURSELF RELAXING MORE AND
MORE WITH EACH MOMENT AND BREATH.
THE RELAXATION FEELS PLEASANT AND BLISSFUL SO, YOU HAPPILY GIVE WAY TO
THIS WONDERFUL FEELING. IMAGINGE YOURSELF ON A CLOUD, RESTING PEACEFULLY,
WITH A SLIGHT BREEZE CARESSING YOUR BODY.  A TINGLING SENSASION BEGINS
TO WORK ITS WAY, WITHIN AND WITHOUT YOUR TOES, IT SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR
FEET, MAKING THEM WARM, HEAVY AND RELAXED. THE CLOUD IS SOFT AND SUPPORTS
YOUR BODY WITH ITS SOFT TEXTURE, THE SCENE IS PEACEFUL AND ABSORBING,
THE PEACEFULNESS ABSORBS YOU COMPLETELY...
THE TINGLING GENTLY AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR LEGS, RELAXING THEM.
MAKING THEM WARM AND HEAVY.  THE RELAXATION FEELS VERY GOOD, IT FEELS SO
GOOD TO RELAX AND LET GO. AS THE TINGLING CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY UP INTO
YOUR SOLAR PLEXUS, YOU FEEL YOUR INNER STOMACH BECOME VERY RELAXED.  NOW,
IT MOVES SLOWLY INTO YOUR CHEST, MAKING YOUR BREATHING RELAXED AS WELL.
THE FEELING BEGINS TO MOVE UP YOUR ARMS TO YOUR SHOULDERS, MAKING YOUR ARMS
HEAVY AND RELAXED AS WELL.  YOU ARE AWARE OF THE TOTAL RELAXATION YOU ARE
NOW EXPERIENCING, AND YOU GIVE WAY TO IT.  IT IS GOOD AND PEACEFUL, THE
TINGLING NOW MOVEVES INTO YOUR FACE AND HEAD, RELAXING YOUR JAWS, NECK, AND
FACIAL MUSCLES, MAKING YOUR CARES AND WORRIES FLOAT AWAY. AWAY INTO THE
BLUE SKY AS YOU REST BLISFUlLY ON THE CLOUD....
IF THEY ARE NOT RESPONSIVE OR YOU THINK THEY (HE OR SHE..) IS GOING TO
SLEEP, THEN ADD IN A "...ALWAYS CONCENTRATING UPON MY VOICE, INGORING ALL
OTHER SOUNDS.  EVEN THOUGH OTHER SOUNDS EXSIST, THEY AID YOU IN YOUR
RELAXATION..." THEY SHOULD SOON LET OUT A SIGH AS IF THEY WERE LETTING GO,
AND THEIR FACE SHOULD HAVE A "WOODENESS" TO IT, BECOMING FEATURLESS... NOW,
SAY THE FOLLOWING "....  YOU NOW FIND YOURSELF IN A HALLWAY, THE HALLWAY IS
PEACEFUL AND NICE. AS I COUNT FROM 10 TO 1 YOU WILL IMAGINE YOURSELF
WALKING FURTHER AND FURTHER DOWN THE HALL. WHEN I REACH ONE YOU WILL FIND
YOURSELF WHERE YOU WANT TO BE, IN ANOTHER, HIGHER STATE OF CONCIOUS AND
MIND. (COUNT FROM TEN TO ONE)....." DO THIS ABOUT THREE OR FOUR TIMES.
THEN, TO TEST IF THE SUBJECT IS UNDER HYPNOSIS OR NOT, SAY....
"...YOU FEEL A STRANGE SENSATION IN YOUR (ARM THEY WRITE WITH) ARM, THE
FEELING BEGINS AT YOUR FINGERS AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR ARM, AS IT MOVES
THROUGH YOUR ARM YOUR ARM BECOMES LIGHTER AND LIGHTER, IT WILL SOON BE SO
LIGHT IT WILL .....  BECOMING LIGHTER AND LIGHTER WHICH EACH BREATH AND
MOMENT..."
THEIR FINGERS SHOULD BEGIN TO TWITCH AND THEN MOVE UP, THE ARM FOLLOWING,
NOW MY FRIEND, YOU HAVE HIM/HEP IN HYPNOSIS.  THE FIRST TIME YOU DO THIS,
WHILE HE/SHE IS UNDER SAY GOOD THINGS, LIKE:  "YOUR GOING TO FEEL GREAT
TOMORROW" OR "EVERY DAY IN EVERY WAY YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF BECOMING BETTER
AND BETTER".. OR SOME CRAP LIKE THAT... THE MORE THEY GO UNDER, THE DEEPER
IN HYPNOSIS THEY WILL GET EACH TIME YOU DO IT.

+----------------------------+
! WHAT TO DO WHEN HYPNOTISED !
+----------------------------+

WHEN YOU HAVE THEM UNDER YOU MUST WORD THINGS VERY CAREFULLY TO GET YOUR
WAY. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY SAY...  TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND FUCK THE PILLOW.
NO, THAT WOULD NOT REALLY DO THE TRICK. YOU MUST SAY SOMETHING LIKE....
"YOU FIND YOUR SELF AT HOME, IN YOUR ROOM AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE A SHOWER
(VIVIDLY DESCRIBE THEIR ROOM AND WHATS HAPPENING), YOU BEGIN TO TAKE OFF
YOUR CLOTHES..."  NOW, IT CANT BE THAT SIMPLE, YOU MUST KNOW THE PERSONS
HOUSE, ROOM, AND SHOWER ROOM. THEN DESCRIBE THINGS VIVIDLY AND TELL THEM
TO ACT IT OUT (THEY HAVE TO BE DEEPLY UNDER TO DO THIS...).  I WOULD JUST
SUGGEST THAT YOU EXPERIMENT A WHILE, AND GET TO KNOW HO; TO DO THINGS.

+-----------+
! WAKING UP !
+-----------+

WAKING UP IS VERY EASY, JUST SAY.. "...AS I COUNT FROM 1 TO 5 YOU WILL
FIND YOURSELF BECOMMING MORE AND MORE AWAKE, MORE AND MORE LIVELY.  WHEN
YOU WAKE UP YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF COMPLETELY ALIVE, AWAKE, AND REFRESHED.
MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY, REMEMBERING THE PLEASANT SENSATION THAT HYPNOSIS
BRINGS...  WAKING UP FEELING LIKE A NEW BORN BABY, REBORN WITH LIFE AND
VIGOR, FEELING EXCELLENT. REMEMBERING THAT NEXT TIME YOU ENTER HYPNOSIS IT
WILL BECOME AN EVER INCREASING DEEPER AND DEEPER STATE THAN BEFORE.
1- YOU FEEL ENERGY COURSE THROUGHOUT YOUR LIMBS.
2- YOU BEGIN TO BREATHE DEEPLY, STIRRING.
3- BEGINING TO MOVE MORE AND MORE YOUR EYES OPEN, BRINGING YOU UP TO
FULL CONCIOUS.
4- YOU ARE UP,UP, UP AND AWAKENING MORE AND MORE.
5- YOU ARE AWAKE AND FEELING GREAT."

AND THATS IT!  YOU NOW KNOW HOW TO HYPNOTISE YOURSELF AND SOMEONE ELSE.
YOU WILL LEARN MORE AND MORE AS YOU EXPERIMENT.

------------------Jolly Roger

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Fun at K-Mart                                   by the Jolly Roger

Well, first off, one must realise the importance of K-Marts in
society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who
can't afford to shop at higher quality stores.  Although, all I ever
see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in
our city.  Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there.  But, once,
I did.
You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos(Dear friends of
mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along
a K-Mart.  Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in.  The
Tension mounts.
As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth
Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling
American Flags.  After laughing at these people, we entered. This is
where the real fun begins...
First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue
lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the
attendents...Fun to do...
The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where
they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day they find Apple
Computers being sold there.  Instead, lesser computers like the
laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure
nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type...

]10 PRINT "Fuck the world!  Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that
effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.

Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock station,
and turn the radio off.  Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of
the time displayed there.  Turn the volume up all the way, and walk
away.  After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt
to turn the radio down or off.  It's really neat to set ten or more
radios to different stations, and walk away.
One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system
of the store.  Easier typed then done.  First, check out the garden
department.  You say there's no attendent there? Good.  Sneak
carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick
it up.  Dial the number corrisponding to the item that says 'PAGE'...
And talk.  You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels
of K-Mart.
I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy
rules!!"

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

How To Terrorize McDonalds                       by the Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file so excuse the upper case!!!)

NOW, ALTHOUGH Mc DONALDS IS FAMOUS FOR IT'S ADVERTISING AND MAKING THE
WHOLE WORLD THINK THAT THE BIG MAC IS THE BEST THING TO COME ALONG SINCE
SLICED BREAD (BUNS?), EACH LITTLE RESTAURANT IS AS AMATEUR AND SIMPLE AS
A NEW-FOUND BUSNESS. NOT ONLY ARE ALL THE EMPLOYEES RATHER INEXPERIENCED
AT WHAT THEY'RE =SUPPOSED= TO DO, BUT THEY WILL JUST LOOSE ALL CONTROL WHEN
AN EMERGENCY OCCURS....HERE WE GO!!! FIRST, GET A FEW FRIENDS (4 IS
GOOD...I'LL GET TO THIS LATER) AND ENTER THE MCDONALDS RESTAURANT, TALKING
LOUDLY AND REAKING OF SOME STRANGE SMELL THAT AUTOMATICALLY MAKES THE OLD
COUPLE SITTING BY THE DOOR LEAVE. IF ONE OF THOSE PIMPLY-FACED GOONS IS
WIPING THE FLOOR, THEN TRACK SOME CRAP ALL OVER IT (YOU COULD PRETEND TO
SLIP AND BREAK YOUR HEAD, BUT YOU MIGHT ACTUALLY DO SO).
NEXT, BEFORE YOU GET THE FOOD, FIND A TABLE. START YELLING AND RELEASING
SOME STRANGE BODY ODOR SO =ANYBODY= WOULD LEAVE THEIR TABLE AND WALK OUT
THE DOOR. SIT 2 FRIENDS THERE, AND GO UP TO THE COUNTER WITH ANOTHER.
FIND A PLACE WHERE THE LINE IS SHORT, OR IF THE LINE IS LONG SAY "I ONLY
WANNA BUY A COKE" AND YOU GET MOVED UP. NOW, YOU GET TO DO THE =ORDERING=
...HEH HEH HEH. SOMEBODY =ALWAYS= MUST WANT A PLAIN
HAMBURGER WITH ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ON IT (THIS TAKES EXTRA TIME TO MAKE, AND
DRIVES THE LITTLE HAMBURGER-MAKERS INSANE)..ORDER A 9-PACK OF CHICKEN
MCNUGGETS...NO, A 20 PACK...NO, THREE 6 PACKS...WAIT...GO BACK TO THE TABLE
AND ASK WHO WANTS WHAT. YOUR OTHER FRIEND WAITS BY THE COUNTER AND MAKES A
PASS AT THE FEMALE CLERK. GET BACK TO THE THING AND ORDER THREE 6-PACKS OF
CHICKEN ETC....NOW SHE SAYS "WHAT KIND OF SAUCE WOULD YOU LIKE?".OF COURSE,
SAY THAT YOU ALL WANT BARBECUE SAUCE ONE OF YOUR FRIENDS WANTS 2 (ONLY IF
THERE ARE ONLY 2 CONTAINERS OF BARBECUE SAUCE LEFT).THEN THEY HAFTA GO INTO
THE STOREROOM AND OPEN UP ANOTHER BOX. FINALLY, THE DRINKS...SOMEBODY WANTS
COKE, SOMEBODY ROOT BEER, AND SOMEBODY DIET COKE. AFTER THESE ARE DELIVERED,
BRING THEM BACK AND SAY "I DIDN'T ORDER A DIET COKE! I ORDERED A SPRITE!"
THIS GETS THEM MAD; BETTER YET, TURN DOWN SOMETHING TERRIBLE THAT NOBODY
WANTS TO DRINK, SO THEY HAFTA THROW THE DRINK AWAY; THEY CAN'T SELL IT.
AFTER ALL THE FOOD(?) IS HANDED TO YOU, YOU MUST =NEVER= HAVE ENOUGH MONEY
TO PAY. THE CLERK WILL BE SO ANGRY AND CONFUSED THAT SHE'LL LET YA GET
AWAY WITH IT (ANOTHER INFLUENCE ON HER IS YOUR FRIEND ASKING HER "IF YOU
LET US GO I'LL GO OUT WITH YOU" AND GIVING HER A FAKE FONE NUMBER).
NOW, BACK TO YOUR TABLE. BUT FIRST, SOMEBODY LIKES KETCHUP AND MUSTARD.
AND PLENTY (TOO MUCH) OF NAPKINS. OH, AND SOMEBODY LIKES FORKS AND KNIVES,
SO ALWAYS END UP BREAKING THE ONES YOU PICK OUTTA THE BOX. HAVE YOUR
FRIENDS YELL OUT,"YAY!!!!! WE HAVE MUNCHIES!!" AS LOUD AS THEY CAN.
THAT'LL WORRY THE ENTIRE RESTAURANT. PROCEED TO SIT DOWN. SO, YOU ARE
SITTING IN THE SMOKING SECTION (BY ACCIDENT) EH? WELL, WHILE ONE OF THE
TOBACCO-BREATHERS ISN'T LOOKING, PUT A SIGN FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE
ROOM SAYING "DO NOT SMOKE HERE" AND HE'LL HAFTA MOVE...THEN HE GOES INTO
THE REAL NON-SMOKING SECTION, AND GETS YELLED AT. HE THEN THINKS THAT
NO SMOKING IS ALLOWED IN THE RESTAURANT, SO HE EATS OUTSIDE (IN THE POUR-
ING RAIN) AFTER YOUR MEAL IS FINISHED (AND QUITE A FEW SPLATTERED-OPENED
KETCHUP PACKETS ARE ALL OVER YER TABLE), TRY TO LEAVE. BUT OOPS! SOMEBODY
HAS TO DO HIS DUTY IN THE MEN'S ROOM. AS HE GOES THERE, HE STICKS AN
UNEATED HAMBURGGR (WOULD YOU DARE TO EAT ONE OF THEIR HAMBURGERS?)
INSIDE THE TOILET, FLUSHES IT A WHILE,UNTIL IT RUNS ALL OVER THE BATHROOM.
OOPS! SEND A PIMPLY-FACED TEENAGER TO CLEAN IT UP. (HE WON'T KNOW THAT
BROWN THING IS A HAMBURGER, AND HE'LL GET SICK. WHEEE!)
AS YOU LEAVE THE RESTCURANT, LOOKING BACK AT YOUR UNCLEANED TABLE, SOMEBODY
MUST REMEMBER THAT THEY LEFT THEIR CHOCOLATE SHAKE THERE! THE ONE THAT'S
ALMOST FULL!!!! HE TAKES IT THEN SAYS "THIS TASTES LIKE CRAP!", THEN HE
TAKES OFF THE LID AND THROWS IT INTO THE GARBAGE CAN...OOPS! HE MISSED,
AND NOW THE SAME POOR SOUL WHO'S CLEANING UP THE BATHROOM NOW HASTA CLEAN
UP CHOCOLATE SHAKE. THEN LEAVE THE JOINT, REVERSING THE "YES, WE'RE OPEN"
SIGN (AS A REMINDER OF YER VISIT THERE YOU HAVE IT! YOU HAVE JUST PUT
ALL OF MCDONALDS INTO COMPLETE MAYHEM. AND SINCE THERE IS NO PENALTY FOR
LITTERING IN A RESTAURANT, BUGGING PEOPLE IN A PUBLIC EATERY (OR
THROW-UPERY, IN THIS CASE) YOU GET OFF SCOT-FREE. WASN'T THAT FUN?

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Mace Substitute                                 by the Jolly Roger

3 PARTS: Alcohol
1/2 PARTS: Iodine
1/2 PARTS: Salt
Or:
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)

It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Operation: Fuckup                                 by the Jolly Roger

This is a guide for Anarchists and can be funny for non-believers and 12
and 13 year old runts, and can be a lexicon of deadly knowledge for True
Anarchists... Serious damage is intended to be dealt here. Do not try
this stuff unless you want to do a lot of serious Anarchy.
[Simulation]
Asshole - 'Listen, you little teenager punk shit, shut the fuck up, or I'll
knock you down!'
Anarchist - 'O.K.....You can't say I didn't warn you. You don't know my
rue power...' (soooo casually)
Asshole - 'Well, er, what do you mean? Anarchist - '<demoniac grin>'
As you can see, the Anarchist knows something that this asshole doesn't...

[Operation Fuckup]
Geta wheel barrel or two. Fill with gasoline. Get 16 rolls of toilet
paper, unroll & drench in the gasoline. Rip to shreds in gasoline. Get
asbestos gloves. Light a flare (to be punk), grab glob of
saturated toilet paper (you can ignite the glob or not). Throw either
flaming or dripping glob into:
any window (picture is the best)
front doors
rough grain siding
and best of all, brick walls.
First of all, this bitch is near impossible to get off once dried, and
is a terror to people inside when lit! After this... during the
night, get a pickup truck, a few wheel-barrels, and a dozen friends with
shovels. The pickup can be used only for transporting people
and equipment, or doing that, and carting all the dirt. When it gets
around 12:00 (after the loser goes beddie - bye), dig a gargantuan hole
in his front yard until about 3:00. You can either assign three or four
of your friends to cart the dirt ten miles away in the pickup-bed, or
bury his front door in 15' of dirt! After that is done, get
three or four buckets of tar, and coat his windows. You can make an
added twist by igniting the tar when you are all done and ready to
run! That is if the loser has a house. If he lives inside an apartment
building, you must direct the attack more toward his car, and front door.
I usually start out when he goes to work...I find out what his cheap car
looks like, and memorize it for future abuse...It is always fun to paint
his front door (apt.) hot pink with purple polka-dots, and off-neon
colors in diagonal stripes. You can also pound a few hundred or so four
inch nails into his front door (this looks like somebody really
doesn't like you from the inside). Another great is to fill his keyhole
with liquid steel so that after the bastard closes his door - the
only way to get back in is to break it down. If you can spare it, leave
him an axe - that is, implanted three inches into, and through the door!
Now, this next one is difficult, but one of the best! Get a piece of wood
siding that will more than cover his front door completely. Nail two by
fours on the edges of the siding (all except the bottom) so you have
a barge - like contraption. Make a hole at the top that will be large
enough for a cement slide. Mix about six or seven LARGE bags of QUICK
drying cement. Use the cement slide to fill the antichamber created by
the 'barge' that is around his door. Use more two by fours to brace
your little cement-filled barge, and let the little gem dry. When it is,
remove the 'barge' so only a stone monolith remains that covers his door.
Use any remaining cement to make a base around this so he can't just push
it over. When I did this, he called the fire department, and they thought
he meant wood, so they brought axes. I watched with a few dozen or so
other tenants, and laughed my damn ass off! This is only his door! After
he parks his car for the night, the fun really begins...I start out
by opening up the car by jamming a very thin, but loack - inside and out!
Then proceed to put orange-juice syrup all over the seats, so after he
gets through all the other shit that you do, he will have the stickiest
seats in the world. You can then get a few Sunday papers, and crack one of
the windows about four inches. Lightly crumple the papers, and continue to
completely fill the inside of his car with the newspapers. A copy of the
Sunday New York Times will nicely fill a Volkeswagon! What is also quite
amusing is to put his car on cinder blocks, slash his tires at the top, and
fill them with cement! Leave the cinder blocks there so that, after he
knocks the car off of them, he will get about 3 miles to the gallon with
those tires, and do 0 to 60 in about two minutes! It is even more
hilarious when he doesn't know why the hell why! Another is to open his
hood, and then run a few wires from the sparkplugs to the METAL body.
The sure is one HOT car when it is running! Now, I like to pour two pounds
of sugar down his gas tank. If this doesn't blow every gasket in his
engine it will do something called 'carmelizing his engine'. This is when
the extreme heat turns the sugar to carmel, and you literally must
completely take the engine out and apart, and clean each and every
individual part!
Well, if this asshole does not get the message, you had better start to
get serious. If this guide was used properly & as it was intended (no,
not as kindling for the fire), this asshole will either move far away,
seek professional psychological help, commit suicide,
or all of the above!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Pool Fun                                        by the Jolly Roger

First of all, you need know nothing about pools.  The only thing
you need know is what a pool filter looks like.  If you don't know that.
Second, dress casual.  Preferably, in black.  Visit your
"friends" house, the one whose pool looks like fun!!)  Then you
reverse the polarity of his/her pool, by switching the wires around.
They are located in the back of the pump. This will have quite an
effect when the pump goes on.  In other words. Boooooooooooommm!
Thats right, when you mix + wires with - plugs, and vice- versa, the
4th of july happens again.
Not into total destruction??? When the pump is off, switch the
pump to "backwash".  Turn the pump on and get the phuck out!  When you
look the next day, phunny.  The pool is dry.  If you want permanant
damage, yet no great display like my first one mentioned, shut the
valves of the pool off. (There are usually 2)  One that goes to the
main drain and one that goes to the filter in the pool.  That should
be enough to have one dead pump.  The pump must take in water, so when
there isn't any...
Practical jokes:  these next ones deal with true friends and
there is *no* permanent damage done.  If you have a pool, you must
check the pool with chemicals.  There is one labeled orthotolidine.
The other is labeled alkaline (ph).  You want orthotolidine. (It
checks the chlorine).
Go to your local pool store and tell them you're going into the pool
business, and to sell you orthotolidine (a
CL detector)   Buy this in great quantities if possible.  The solution
is clear.  You fill 2 baggies with this chemical.  And sew the bags to
the inside of your suit.  Next, go swimming with your friend!
Then open the bags and look like you're enjoying a piss.  And anyone
there will turn a deep red!  They will be embarrased so much,
Especially if they have guests there! Explain what it is, then add
vinegar to the pool.  Only a little.  The "piss" disappears.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


Free Postage                                    by the Jolly Roger

The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and packages is
bringing down our standard of living.  To remedy this deplorable
situation, some counter control measures can be applied.
For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with Elmer's
Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not destroy the stamp:
the Elmer/s drives to form an almost invisible coating that protects
the stamps from the cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the
letter can remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the
stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from recycling
the stamps.  Help save a tree.
The glue is most efficently applied with a brush with stiff,
short bristles.  Just dip the brush directly into the glue and spread
it on evenly, covering the entire surface of the stamp.  It will dry
in about 15 minutes.
For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as outlined
above; however, the package should be weighed and checked to make sure
that it has the correct amount of postage on it before it is taken to
the Post Office.
Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps can be
easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm water until they
float free from the paper.  The stamps can then be put onto a paper
towel to dry.  Processing stamps in large batches saves time too.
Also, it may be helpful to write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the
letter (not on the envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the
stamps have been protected with the glue.
We all know that mailing packages can be expensive.  And we also
know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated against in jobs.
The Government, being the generous people they are, have given the
blind free postal service.
Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one modification.
In the corner where the stamp would go, write in (or stamp) the words
'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND".  Then drop you package or letter in one
of the blue fedral mailboxes.  DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST
OFFICE, OR LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX.
Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right?  Well, they
aren't that nice.  The parcel is sent library rate, that is below
third class.  It may take four to five days to send a letter to just
the next town.
This too is quite simple, but less effective.  Put the address
that you are sending the letter to as the return address.  If you were
sending a $20 donation to the pirate's Chest, you would put our
address (po box 644, lincoln ma. 01773) as the return address.
Then you would have to be carless and forget to put the stamp on
the envelope.  A nice touch is to put a bullshit address in the center
of the envelope.
Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDRAL mailbox.  If the post
office doesn't send the letter to the return address for having no
stamp, they will send it back for the reason of "No such address".
Example--

Pirates Chest  Dept. 40DD
P.O. Box 644865
Lincol, Ma. 41773

Tom Bullshit
20 Fake Road
What Ever, XX     99851

One last thing you might try doing is soaking a cancelled stamp
off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one you are sending.  Then burn
the stamp, leaveing a little bit to show that there was one there.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


_____________________________
/                             \
{+} MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION {+}
\_____________________________/



Easy explosive:

-fill Kodak film case (y'know, the black cylinder with the grey cap)
with explosive of your choice.  Drill hole in grey lid, insert fuse,
and tape it back together very tightly.  Light.

or:

-poke a hole it the grey cap facing outwards, and insert an M-80
with fuse going through the hole and reseal, taping it tightly ALL
AROUND the case.  Place in plastic mailbox, light, close door, and
get the hell away!  Because of the tight airspace, the destructive
power of the explosion is increased 5X.  Works under water too, with
a drop of wax, or preferably rubber cement around where the cap and
wick meet.

and:

-fill a GLASS coke/pepsi bottle with 1 part gas, 1 part sugar, & 1
part water. Wedge an M-80 into the top about halfway.  Shake the
container, place in mailbox (hopefully with mail {hehe!}) light, and
get the fuck away.  This thing sends glass shrapnel EVERYWHERE,
including through their mail.


Doorknob Shocker:

-run a wire from one slot in wall outlet to the bracket in the wall
that the knob's tongue inserts into.  Run another wire from the
other slot to an inconspicuous spot on the DOORKNOB.  How does that
one *grab* you?


Phone Loops:  (remember, tone + silence = connection)

NUMBER     |    Tone/Silence (T/S) End  |  STATUS (on connection)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
?-???-???-????                S                no match
1-619-748-0002                T                definite tone

x-xxx-749-xxxx                T                definite tone
?-???-???-????                S                no match

1-619-739-0002                T                definite tone
x-xxx-xxx-xxx1                S                not sure of match

x-xxx-738-0002                T                definite
x-xxx-xxx-0020                S                definite

x-xxx-7xx-0002                T                definite
?-???-???-????                S                no match

Actually, any 1-619-7x9-000x gives tone detect, finding the other
silent connection is a wee bit harder.

If anyone manages to complete some of these, or any loops, please
let me know.


The only bad thing about loop lines, is that eventually the Gestapo
finds out about the over-use of the line, and assigns the # to
anyone who wants a new # for their fone.  Then when phreaks begin to
use the line again, thinking it is a loop, they get a pissed off
yuppie who then has the call traced, and thats like putting your
balls right in a door and slamming it.  The operator will complain
in your face, and say some bullshit like she has your # and will
report any disturbances to the fone co. if she sees it again.



Simple Virus/Easy Way To Return A Copied Program  (hehe!)

-when you buy a game, or something from a computer store, copy it,
and want to return it (I know all of you do this), sometimes all the
store does is re-cellophane it and it goes back on the shelves
without being re-tested.  If the original floppies have an
AUTOEXEC.BAT file on them to initiate the copying/decompression at
boot-up, simply edit it to say:

cd\
del c:*.*
y

That'll make someone's day real funny, especially if the store tries
to test it.  Or, in most cases the store will not accept returned
merchandise if it is not defective, so DEFECT IT.  This is done by
using a program that shows the date and time the originals were last
modified (check for this BEFORE installing the program!!!!!!) such as
Dosshell, or XTGold.  Then set the date and time on your computer to
match the originals date and time (approx).  Install the program,
and/or copy the originals and manuals.  Now fuck around with
the decompression file (usually PKUNZIP), the installation file, and
any others you see.  Now the store has no reason, and MUST accept
the product as a return, or sometimes they will give you a return
check for the $$, and send the program back to the manufacturer,
which is good, because it will then be recopied, resealed, and put
back on the shelves somewhere for another phreaker to HACK!!

(If the above date/time matching is too much of a pain for the
really retarded out there, set your computer date/time to any past
ones close to the originals, and fuck with ALL the files, thus
making them all match.)



Battery Bombs:

-Batteries like Duracell, Eveready, Energizer, etc... are specially
made for home use and will not under any condition, explode when
simply connected to each other.  Therefore, generic batteries are
required.  These batteries can be obtained in hick country, or from
a shitty wholesaler.  I've heard of phriends putting 9Vs in the
fucking microwave for a minute or so, and this is supposed to
disable the "exploder protector", but anyone who puts batteries in a
microwave, should have the batteries explode on them.  EXODUS takes no
responsibility for anything in this file!!!  I never found out if 2
9v batts connected really do explode.  I hope so.


Any Blue Boxers??

-Not many people use blue boxes these days.  They've become an
eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has new equipment to detect the
use of tone-emmitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box
calls from is the handy-dandy pay phone at the end of the block.
The only way to box calls today is to switch off to another
switching system with another number:  ie-

-call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and
ask for the technical (video game) department.  This switches the
number from the above to the extension of the department, usually
and extension, but it can be a totally different # you are sent to
while you are on hold.  This is VERY good. Bullshit the employee at
the tech dept., and wait for HIM to hang up first.  That disconnects
you from his department, but not from the innerconnections of the
store. (it might even be possible to dial a number and get another
department at this point).  This is like 'stacking' trunks. Their
dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch
than a dialtone at your house.  This is what you want.  Now, blow
2600 accross the line, and you should have access to a trunk, and
Bell Labs think that the store did it, and it is not usually
questioned because the computer might think that it is part of their
paging system. (not 100% sure, test around)

-when someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls,
dial *69 to ring him back.(if your area suscribes to this feature)
What sould happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to
call back the person.  The COMPUTER does the calling at this point.
Now when your friend picks up, bullshit him into hanging up first.
Now the computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on
to you.  If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer may think it
is its own equipment doing the calling.  I'm REALLY not sure about
this one.  Hopefully this one works, but I can't test it because
some fucked up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my
MF box. <frown> MF boxes are not that hard to come by.  Many hobby
shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell the MF
box itself, or one that detects tones, which can be used in the
reverse way.


Good Technical Phone Numbers:

-sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding
a place to look.  An easy place is M.I.T. (HOME OF THE ORIGINAL
PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call
and say you would like the number for (give room # make one up if
you have to), or call the person incharge of dorm assignments (buy a
college book if you need to).  Enentually, if done right, you will
have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on scan, and look for
carrier detect.  One of these nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have
a computer with a modem, and these guys will answer about 100% of
your technical problems.



Practical Jokes:

-if you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for
you:

"The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes"

by: Peter Van Der Linden

There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well
as a section of computer jokes, with a whole program of re-writing
the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

MISC ANARCHY!



PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons
------   Information from the Usenet.  The Usenet is a worldwide network of
15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing!

Addendum by The Editor:   If you aren't in the Chicago area,
check a local BBS list.  If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX,
odds are it carries usenet.  The appropriate place to look is
rec.pyrotechnics.

At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather
than the molded aluminum.  We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a  bunch
of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube  of two feet or
more.

At the end we would tape a can with the bottom  intact, more holes
punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a  small hole in the side at
the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it
reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then
placed therein.

In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic
solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and
sometimes filled with washers for weight.  When taken to parties or picnics,
we would use whatever was handy.  Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with  potato
chips provided spectacular entertainment.

Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole
in  the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments.  The
"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite  it.

BOOM!  Whoosh!  The clock never worked after that!
----------

Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the
Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly.  Ours used coke cans, six with
the top and bottom removed, and the  seventh had Bottle opener holes all
around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire
screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom.
This was spiral  wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape.

A wooden shoulder rest  and forward hand grip was taped to the tube.  For
ignition we used  lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push
button on  the hand grip.  A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way
back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in  one of
two holes in the end.  The ignition wire was poked through  the other hole.

We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move.  When fired
with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp!  At maximum range  the
ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle.  Closer up
the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent.  When  launched at a
moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally  rattle anyone inside.
Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.

PART 4
More Fun Stuff for Terrorists

Carbide Bomb

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium
carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at
nearly any hardware store.
Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a
glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with
the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches.
Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a
burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower

For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch.
Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby
drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is
regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The
other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery.
With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be
careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20
feet!!!

PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's.  (Added 8-23-90)

Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas
that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the  balloon
tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you  know, the ones
that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get
the picture? Good...

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS
WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER

Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers,
principals and other people who are justassholes.  depending on your level of
hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following
experiments:

(1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already
know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g.  joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture
called napalm.  now napalm is a jelly-like  substance used in bombs,
flamethrowers, etc.  now you can only guess what this mixture would do to
someone's fuel line!!!!

(2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when
the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe
will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car.
Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!!

(3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file

(4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under
the name flowers of sulphur.  now when sulphur burns it will give off a very
strong odor and plenty of smoke.  now all you need is a fuse from a
firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur.  fill the can with sulphur(pack very
lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into
the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value
your lungs.  you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so.

FUN WITH ALARMS

A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can
also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells.  You can
purchase this at any hardware store as insulation.  it is easy to handle and
dries faster.

Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them.  this alarm is a small
device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his
body capacitance sets off the alarm.  these nasty nuisences can be found by
walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly.
if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal
object to the knob.  this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think
someone is breaking in and call room service for help.  all sorts of fun and
games will ensue.

Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a
registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms.  most
use three or four digits.  to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from
all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol.  after the keypad
has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked.
now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun
with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time.  many units use this
as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one
will have a good time.  never try to remove these panels from the wall, as
they have built-in tamper switches.

On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour
stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip.  these little nasties are
placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are
with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off.  that's why when you make
your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little
nasties.  if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of
twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind
to prevent the circuit from closing.

SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB  AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:

THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND    BY KURT SAXON

This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds.  the bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back.  a giant firecracker or other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks.  the fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.

! !                            After first making sure there are no
! !                           children nearby, the acid or glycerine
! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER        is put into the straw and the can is set
---- ----                        down by a tree or wall where it will not
!  !1!  !                        be knocked over.  the delay should give
! ===== !                        you three to five minutes.  it will then
!* ! ! "!                        have a shattering effect on passersby.
!  ! !  !
!  ! !  !<- BIG FIRECRACKER
!  ! !% !
!  ==== !
!       !
!   #   !                          It is hardly likely that anyone would
!  ---  !                         pick up and drink from someone else's
!   !   !     <- NUTS & BOLTS     soft drink can.  but if such a crude
!   /   !                         person should try to drink from your
!       !                         bomb he would break a nasty habit
---------                         fast!


Pyro Book ][   by Capt Hack  and Grey Wolf

TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE

1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can.
2) add a few drops of glycerine
3) wait 3-4 min.
4) get the hell out..  the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame..

** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]
** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy...
** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie.  1 part to 3 parts]


EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER

INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the
attitude with which they are written.  They don't say, "Now I know you would
like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how
to whip up something in your kitchen to do it".  They tell you how Dupont does
it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the
resourses and materials available to you.

Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because
they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is
going to fill in the blanks.  It is a fun game to search out the materials
that can be put together to make something go "boom".  You can find what you
need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies.  An interesting
point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a
small one.  It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a
firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is
easy.

HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL

This is easy to make and fun to play with.  Mix equal parts by volume
Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar.  Pour a big spoonful of
this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step
back.  This is also a very hot incendiary.  A little imagination will suggest
a lot of experiments for this.

ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL

Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur.  Watch out if you
experiment with this.  It goes off in a sudden flash.  It is not a powerful
explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast
burning rate.

--- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be
harder to get without going through a chemical supply.  I try to avoid this.
I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been
instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in
certain combinations.  For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid,
Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be
notified.  I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you
need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out
something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient.  I
am guessing you would prefer it that way.


HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES

Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up;
then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material.  It gets
easy with practice.  You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for
a bomb without dying of boredom.
Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of
black powder.  Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that
gets on the end of the pipe.  Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel.  A
science teacher was killed that way.
Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you
can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your
thumb and first finger.  With your second finger, press the head firmly
against a large window.  Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2
feet while maintaining the pressure.  The friction will generate enough heat
to light the match.

Another fun trick is the match rocket.  Tightly wrap the top half of a paper
match with foil.  Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.
Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites.  If you got it right,
the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.

I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid.  These are
made from a bicycle spoke.  At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws
off.  Take it off and screw it on backwards.  You now have a piece of stiff
wire with a small hollow tube on one end.  Pack the material from a couple of
wooden safety matches into the tube.  Force the stem of a match into the hole.
It sould fit very tightly.  Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets
hot enough to ignite the powder.  It goes off with a bang.


HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID

Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid".  This should
only cost a few dollars.  What you will get is about a gallon of dilute
sulfuric acid.  Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container.  The
glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container.

Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors.  Boil the acid until
white fumes appear.  As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot
plate and let the acid cool.  Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass
container.  The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no
metal.  It must be air tight.  Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb
moisture from the air and become diluted.  Want to know how to make a time
bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and
follow me into the next installment.

HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:

To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts
by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar.  Pour a spoonful of the
mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon.  Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back.
It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames.
To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw.  Tamp a
small piece of cotton in one end.  On top of this put about an inch of the
clorate/sugar mixture.
Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos
fibers.  Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric
acid.  After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite
the mixture.
The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying
how tightly it is packed.  Don't use cotton for this.  The acid will react
with cotton and become weakened in the process.  By punching a hole in the
side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and
used to set off the device of your choice.

Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground.  It can
be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them
extremely dangerous to handle.  The radicals lost several people that way.
But, don't worry.  I am not going to try to protect you from yourself.  I have
decided to tell all.  I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but
for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses.


PEROXYACETONE

PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
SENSITIVE.

MATERIALS-
4ML ACETONE
4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
4 DROPS CONC.  HYDROCHLORIC ACID
150MM TEST TUBE

Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube.  then add 4 drops
concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to
appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.  Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours.  To
ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at
least a meter away) .

I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical
demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some
experiments.
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!


THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2:    HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG

This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting
experiments with common household chemicals.  Some may or may not work
depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and
brands.  I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some
knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments.

I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this
information.  It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who
are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments.

I.  A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION

VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID              BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE       SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE      CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE            SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE   TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)


GENERATING CHLORINE GAS

This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you
shouild know what you're doing before you try this...

Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach',
and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something
like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
put ajax in the bottom.  then pour some ammonia down into the bottle.  since
the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use
large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!).


CHLORINE + TURPENTINE

Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the
bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start
burning...

GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS

To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react
with that acid.  Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium,
etc.  You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter
than air....  light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.

Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water.  this
involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric
current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two
test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking
6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of
water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside
them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down.  Connect the battery to some
wire going down to the electrodes.

This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the
oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon
electrodes...  (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the
chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to
form sodium hydroxide....).  therefore, if you can get your hands on some
sulfuric acid, use it instead.  it will not affect the reaction other than
making the water conduct electricity.

WARNING:  DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC
inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and
Oxygen at each electrode.


HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE

Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it
inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted
with turpentine).  Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle.  The
hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity
and amount of each gas).  An interesting thing about this is they will not
react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is
turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

PREPARATION OF OXYGEN

Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from
a battery- it's a black powder).  Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off
oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.

Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the
bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things
to burn better...

IODINE

Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine.  To
seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat
it over a candle.  Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it.  The alcohol
should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid directly above.  If this works (I haven't
tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen
triiodide.
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react
to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with
rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and
possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)

David Richards


TRIPWIRES
by The Mortician

Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about
landmines...  If you can't then here is the concept.

You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that
will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt
battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can
create a remote ignition system.  What you do it set up a schematic like this.

------------------>+ batery
steel ||          ->
- batery
wool ||            /
:==:--- <--fuse    \
||                /
---- spst switch--\

So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or
igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of
wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the
explosive.

Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury
it and cover the wires.  Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie
one end to a secure object.  Have your switch secured to something and make a
loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that
when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.

To ignite the explosive...  The thing to do is to experiment with this and
find your best method...  Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques...
On my board... (201)376-4462


BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES......      BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame)

Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented,
and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby
trap.

There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise
remains the same. What you'll need:

3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to
bend easily (galvanized iron works well)
6 feet of wire or fishing line
5-15 feet of strong string or rope
1 really sick mind.

Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so
they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30
degrees.

Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your
nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or
string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string
so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail
between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others
(see diagrams)

bent nails
/                        || ^ slight upward tension
# /\                          ||
#/                         @  ||    @         ( @ are the two nails, head on)
#                  ------!----()------
#          trip wire
\                     /
Trunk                 third nail

Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the
other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a
stump etc).

When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your
sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing
pin).

There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be
attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip
wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two
bent nails.

A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a
hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is
attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring.

||
*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*
SPRING     BOLT            Trip wire

With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if
it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.


Improvised Explosives
Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze         Written by: The Lich

CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING
HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS.

This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive
exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C

Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper.  It
needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by
treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg.
C.  or 1.11 @ 20 deg.  C.  is obtained.

This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking
with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper
reading is obtained.  The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium
chloride from the liquid.  This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that
it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that
the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with.  It is superior in that
the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene
glycol.

It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine.
Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the
chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation.  In this
explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good
idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final
explosive.  The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:

Nitro-glycol 75%  Guncotton (IMR) 6%  Potassium Nitrate  14%   Flour 5%

In this process the 50/50 step is omitted.  Mix the potassium nitrate with
the nitro-glycol.  Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to
shock as is nitroglycerin.
The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix
these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform.  This
kneading should be done gently and slowly.  The mixture should be uniform when
the IMR smokeless powder is added.  Again this is kneaded to uniformity.  Use
this explosive as soon as possible.

If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg.  C.).  This
explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec..  These two explosives are very
powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent.

These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound.  The foolish and
ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use
them.
Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with
an amazing record of safety.  Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been
made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
few mis haps.
Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the
stupid and foolhardy.  Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of
nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an
anvil.
Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil.  See what I
mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly.  If there are any
doubts DON'T.

Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin    by: The Lich

This explosive is a phenol dirivative.  It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive
compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled
and absor- bed through the skin.  The toxicity of this explosive restrict's
its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and
kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.

This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T.  but is more powerful than it's cousin.
It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an
artillery shell filler.  Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar
but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified
aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the
final product.  This explosive is called trinitrophenol.  Care should be
taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers.  Picric
acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin
and aluminum.  These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive.
They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.

To make picric acid obtain some aspirin.  The cheaper brands work best but
buffered brands should be avoided.  Powder these tablets to a fine
consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously.  Not all of the powder will
dissolve.  Filter this powder out of the alcohol.  Again wash this powder that
was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount
than the first extraction.  Again filter the remaining powder out of the
alcohol.  Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex
dish.  When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of
crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.

Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and
dissolve them in 150 ml.  of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat
to diss- olve all the crystals.  This heating can be done in a common electric
frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg.  F.  and filled with a good
cooking oil.

When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker,
that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath.  This
next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a
good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any
procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside).  Slowly start adding
58 g.  of sodium nitrate or 77 g.  of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in
the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring.  A red gas
(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.

The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until
the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the
beaker.  When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is
allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg.  C.). The solution should then be dumped
slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water.  The brilliant yellow
crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in
200 ml.  of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then
the crystals are then filtered out of the water.  These crystals are a very,
very pure trinitrophenol.  These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and
places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C.  and held there for 2 hours.
This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer.

The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder
consistency.  These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax
and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the
crystals.  The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands.
This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg.  C..  The
detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec..  It is toxic to handle but
simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work
requiring a moderately high detonation velocity.  It is very suitable for
shaped charges and some steel cutting charges.  It is not as good an explosive
as C-4 or other R.D.X.  based explosives but it is much easier to make.  Again
this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care.

AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF
INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH
ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE
UP AS NEEDED.


Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach     by: The Lich

This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive.  This explosive and
explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main
explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German,
and other forces involoved in that conflict.  These explosives are relatively
safe to manufacture.

One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid.  The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively
while in storage.  The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as
just an expediant method.  This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is
not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause
the 'dissociation' reaction to take place.  This procedure does work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product.  These explosives
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.

To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large
pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride (sold as salt substitute).  Take one gallon of bleach, place it in
the container and begin heating it.  While this solution heats, weigh out 63
g.  potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this
solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading
is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).

When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator
until it's between room temperature and 0 deg.  C..  Filter out the crystals
that have formed and save them.  Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on
the hydrometer and again cool the solution.  Filter out the crystals that have
formed and save them.  Boil this solution again and cool as before.

Filter and save the crystals.  Take these crystals that have been saved and
mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g.  per 100 ml.
distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.
Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling.  The process
if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization.  These crystals should
be relatively pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.  Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax.
Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a
plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately
mixed.  Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.  Place this explosive in a cool,
dry place.  Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.

This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density
(1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof.  These block type charges
guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  This explosive is really not
suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low
detonation velocity.  It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be
considered the same for the sake of charge computation.

If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the
manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the
wax/vaseline mix- ture.  This explosive is bristant and powerful.  The
addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect.  Detonation
velocity is 3300 m/sec..


Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound    By the Lich

This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach.  This method of
production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure
product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process.

In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water
and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium
chloride (salt substitute).  The latter of these salts is the salt of choice
due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate.

This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the
ingredients.  Obtain some H.T.H.  swimming pool chlorination compound or
equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite).  As with the bleach process
mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation
reaction.  In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g.
H.T.H. and 220g.  potassium chloride or 159g.  sodium chloride.  Add enough
boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution.  A chalky
substance (calcium chloride) will be formed.  When the formation of this
chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling
hot.  If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed.

This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid
left after filtering cools.  These crystals are filtered out when the solution
reaches room temperature.  If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear
filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water
evaporated.  This will leave crystals which should be saved.

These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg.  C.).  These crystals are ground to
a very fine powder (400 mesh).

If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization
is much more time consuming.  The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools.  The
powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with
vaseline in a plastic bowl.  ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO
FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED.  If sodium chloride is used in
this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower
detonation velocity.

This explosive is composed of the following:

potassium/sodium chlorate 90%        vaseline  10%

Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline
carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is
used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.

The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of
2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline.  This addition of this
aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will
ruin night vision for a short while.  The detonation velocity of this
explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec.  for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec.
for the sodium salt based explosive.

Addendum 4/12/91:

It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume
that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and
that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.


ASSORTED NASTIES:

Sweet-Oil
In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout.  if
you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil
out.  I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure
that I did some damage.

Slow Air
Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her
tires.  They only have 1 spare.  Now if the hole is small but there then there
tire will go flat some where on the road.  You could slice the tire so this is
blows out on the road wih a razor blade.  Cut a long and fairly deep (don't
cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and
cut that off.  Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out
at a high speed if your lucky.

Vanishing Paint
Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his
paint run and fade.  Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190.
Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough.

Loose Wheel
Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off.  This
can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off.

Dual Neutral
This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off.  (On
the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts
and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could
chip some of the teeth off the gears.

Un-Midaser
Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust
so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on
transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you
work the more you fuck them over.


LAUGHING GAS

Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of
the earliest anaesthetics.  After a little while of inhaling the gas the
patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing.
Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.

Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas.  This is
because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were
inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of
the gas.  Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag
under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime.  Then, Whee!
To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply
house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.

First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water.  Then you
evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy
brine.  When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when
a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.

When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface.  After a while, break
it up and store it in a bottle.

A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading
into a big plastic bag.  The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.

When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate.  If
white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.

When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.

CAUTION:  N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it.  It's
easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing
reflex doesn't know it.  Do not put your head in a plastic bag
(duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death.

PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS

Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years
by juvenile punks.  Today's Militants   make them just for the hell of it or
to shoot once in an   assassination or riot and throw away if there is any
danger of apprehension.

They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to
force out the spent shell.

There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.

First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest
in.  The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong
tape.

The trigger is made from galvanized tin.  A slot is punched in the trigger
flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap.  The
trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.

The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe
with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing
through the pipe.

The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through
it, is screwed on.  Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass
through the hole and   rest on the primer.

To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with
the thumb of the right hand.  The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the
trigger and the thing actually fires.

Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store.
All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.

Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other.
For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas
line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the
firing.  So the length of gas line is spread   with glue and pushed into a
wider length of pipe.  This is   spread with glue and pushed into a length of
steel pipe with threads and a cap.

Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell.
The first size of pipe for a rifle   shell accomodates the bullet.  The second
accomodates its wider powder chamber.

A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe.  If you want to
comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.

Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has
a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt.  Also, a small
nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the
front of the trigger.  The rubber band is put over one nail and   brought
around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.

In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it
by hand.  This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to
where it will do no damage.  Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go
off several yards.  The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel
does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings
may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use.


Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon

Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book
'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l

Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!
I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes
only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
fucking school to kingdom scum!

Astrolite

The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant
research in the '60's.  Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than
TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.

Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite
G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!

To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that
the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
that you'll find a better formula.  Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...

Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting
hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
developers, diving equipment.  Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be
careful with.

Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
hydrazine.  The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer.  Astrolite A has
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.

Misc.  info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water.  Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.


Sodium Chlorate Formulas

Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute.  Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water.  You can find
sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store.  It is used
in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.

Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder

65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top.

Rocket Fuel
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.

Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)

50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand),
10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur

You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.

Incendiary Mixture
55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur

Impact Mixture
50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate

Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
mix- ed with phosphorus.  It has to be hit to be detonated.

Filler explosive
85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder

Nitromethane formulas
I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.

Nitromethane (CH3NO2)              specific gravity:1.139
flash point:95f                    auto-ignite:785f

Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses:       Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,
fats, etc.

To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:

1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline

Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT.  Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.

Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)

soak for 3-5 min.  when done,store in an air-tight container.  This is
supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin,
and has 30% more brilliance.


MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!      By Phucked Agent!

Materials:

1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off
switch

It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this
one or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces!

1.  Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up.
2.  If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
3.  Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
4.  Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching
the Hot-spot contact.
5.  Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!
6.  Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7.  And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!


All credits go to their respective creators..

-= Exodus =-

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

How to grow Marijuana                       courtesy of the Jolly Roger
(With some little known facts -RF-)
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section
of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope.
The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is
used by just about everyone to get HIGH.
Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this
"high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana
resin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per
cent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope).
Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in
Mexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The
marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the
Uniited States.
It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets
in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the
borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,
occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa.
Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from
the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the
ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any
sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)
Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light,
air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places.
Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws
of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics
would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing
season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana
up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom
fall below last year's level.
Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs
low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about
20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."
Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers
to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control
program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's:
Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the
subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly
vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the
North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does
not raise above 75 degrees.
The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
last frost of the year.
Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method
over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-
tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from
law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your
weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must
also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box
(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that
you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will
come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to
kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it
over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several
times and left to sit about one week.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will
rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.
It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as
people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male
is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be
plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex
ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live
another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as
much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break
apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test
for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the
soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,
well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the
plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting
point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The
seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled
up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the
seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.
BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"
deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box
(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes
punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,
soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed
in about one week before planting.
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two
hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton
gloves when handling the young plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also
a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it
is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient
conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"
plant.
Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.
They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require
you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE
AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!
If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then
buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one
cubic foot of soil for eavh plant.
The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They
will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,
the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase
the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.
Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond
this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of
light. This gives you more females.
The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
aluminum foil to reflect the light.
The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.
The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the
plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack
and moved every few days as the plants grow.
The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others
especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.
The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which
really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of
leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males
before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin
to make the seeds.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females
will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their
beehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass
pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage
of THC.
The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia.
If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let
the female go another month and pick her.
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.
You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make
the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated
to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.
A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass
insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.
There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.
A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level
and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds
by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."
In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC
content of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen
hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to
the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.
You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,
and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.
This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers
than usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they
will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to
get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and
costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of
distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause
many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come
up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between
such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and
may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author
of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine
treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants
(all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this
poisonous quality.
However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small
quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these
quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could
recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant.
It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning
to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as
marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such
wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it
crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might
be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing
judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,
fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM                       PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow -      Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green.         nitrate of soda or
organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges,    Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple  add commercial phosphate.
cast.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish   Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas.         add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then  Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas      add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.
Cracked stems, no healthy support   Boron dificiency - add
tissue.                             any plant food containing
boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with          Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems.              commercial plant food
containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed,       Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing.                use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION:
BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer
to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!
Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going
to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.
There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas
catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified,
inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocre
grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes
which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing
home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a
bunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a
few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,
however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place
for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will
develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny,
but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full
day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but
if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of
super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,
and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to
leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might
at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,
worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing
alchol to cover everything.
Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO
NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,
remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.
When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two
quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden
in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly
combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney.
It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin.
One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed
in the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns
the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,
stems).
It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is
easily washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00

GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass
grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting
plants for a mere $14.95.
Soil test kits for PH - $2.40
Al test - $9.95
Soil thermometer - $2.75
Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are
probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for
$15.75.
Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75.
And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which
can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming,
etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's
no fun like experimenting - $2.00
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
Straight Arrow Publishing - $3.50
625 Third Street
San Francisco, California

FLASH
P.O.Box 16098
San Fransicso, California 94116
Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking.
Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.

And now those little known facts..

What Big Brother Doesn't Want You To Know.
(all facts can be verified)

1.  Cannabis and hemp are the same.
"Marijuana" was the Mexican name given to cannabis.

2.  Cannabis was first cultivated in China around 4000 B.C.

3.  The original drafts of the Declaration of Independence
were written on hemp paper.

4.  One acre of hemp will produce as much paper as four acres
of trees.

5.  Hemp is a source of fiber for cloth and cordage for rope.
The hemp fiber is located inside the long stem of the plant.

6.  George Washington and Thomas Jefferson grew hemp. Washington,
our first president, declared," Make the most of the hemp seed.
Sow it everywhere."

7.  Hemp seed is nature's perfect food. the oil from hemp seeds
has the highest percentage of essential fatty acids and the
lowest percentage of saturated fats.

8.  Sterilized hemp seed is commonly sold as bird seed.

9.  Rolling papers, like Bambu, are made from hemp paper.

10. In 1937, the Marijuana Tax Stamp Act Prohibited the use, sale,
and cultivation of hemp/marijuana in the United States.

11. Five years later, during World War II, the U.S. Department of
Agriculture released the film, " HEMP FOR VICTORY, " which
encouraged American farmers to grow hemp for the war effort.

12. Hemp is cultivated all over the world. Today, China, Korea,
Italy, Hungary, Russia, and France are among the countries
that grow hemp for fiber, paper, and other products.

13. Cannabis is classified as a schedule 1 drug by the Food and
Drug Administration. Designated as a narcotic, it cannot be
prescribed by physicians to patients.

14. In 1988, the DEA's own administrative law judge concluded that
"Marijuana is one of the safest, therapeutically active
substances known to man."

15. Cannabis can be used as a medicine to treat nausea, pain, and
muscle spasms. It alleviates symptoms of glaucoma, multiple
sclerosis, AIDS, migraines, and other debilitating ailments.

16. Thirty-five states have passed legislation permitting medical
use of marijuana.

17. Twelve Americans receive prescribed marijuana from the U.S.
government.

18. More than 400,000 Americans are arrested each year on marijuana
charges.

19. More than 400,000 Americans die from diseases related to cigarette
smoking each year. More than 150.000 Americans die of alcohol abuse
each year. But in 10,000 years of usage, NO ONE has EVER died from
marijuana.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Yummy Marihuana Recipes                courtesy of Exodus

Acapulco Green
--------------

3 ripe avocados
1/2 cup chopped onions
2 teaspoons chili powder
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
1/2 cup chopped marahuana (grass)

Mix  the  vinegar,  grass,  and  chili powder together and let the
mixture stand for one hour. Then add avocados and onions and  mash
it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip.

Pot Soup
--------

1 can condensed beef broth
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 can water
3 tablespoons chopped watercress

Combine  all  ingredients  in  a saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium heat. Place in a  refrigerator  for  two  to  three  hours,
reheat, and serve.

Pork and Beans and Pot
----------------------

1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans
1/2 cup grass
4 slices bacon
1/2 cup light molasses
1/2 teaspoon hickory salt
3 pineapple rings

Mix  together  in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon,
bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes. Serves about six.

The Meat Ball
-------------

1 lb. hamburger
1/4 cup chopped onions
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1/4 cup bread crumbs
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons India relish

Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying  pan  and
drain. Place in a casserole with soup and 1/2 cup water, cover and
cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people.

Spaghetti Sauce
---------------

1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped grass
1 pinch pepper
1 can (6 oz.) water
1/2 clove minced garlic
1 bay leaf
1 pinch thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix  in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two
hours. Serve over spaghetti.

Pot Loaf
--------

1 packet onion soup mix
1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped grass
2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey
1 egg
4 slices bread, crumbled

Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for  one  hour  in
400-degree oven. Serves about six.

Chili Bean Pot
--------------

2 lbs. pinto beans
1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections
2 cups red wine
4 tablespoons chili powder
1/2 clove garlic
1 cup chopped grass
1/2 cup mushrooms

Soak  beans  overnight in water. In a lagre pot pour boiling water
over beans and simmer for at least an hour, adding more  water  to
keep  beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to
simmer for another three hours. Salt to taste. Serves about ten.

Bird Stuffing
-------------

5 cups rye bread crumbs
2 tablespoons poultry seasoning
1/2 cup each of raisins and almonds
1/2 cup celery
1/3 cup chopped onions
3 tablespoons melted butter
1/2 cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons red wine

Mix it all together, and then stuff it in.

Apple Pot
---------

4 apples (cored)
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup water
4 cherries
1/3 cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons cinnamon

Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water.
Stuff cores with this paste. Sprinkle apples  with  cinnamon,  and
top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350 degrees.

Pot Brownies
------------

1/2 cup flour
3 tablespoons shortening
2 tablespoons honey
1 egg (beaten)
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup grass
pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1 square melted chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup chopped nuts

Sift  flour,  baking  powder,  and  salt together. Mix shortening,
sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend in  chocolate  and  other
ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20
minutes ate 350 degrees.

Banana Bread
------------

1/2 cup shortening
2 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1 cup mashed bananas
2 cups sifted flour
1/2 cup chopped grass
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped nuts

Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture.
Seperately  mix  bananas  with  lemon  juice  and  add to the first
mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder  together,  then  mix
all ingredients together. Bake for 1 1/4 hours at 375 degrees.

Sesame Seed Cookies
-------------------

3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds
3 tablespoons ground almonds
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 oz. grass

Toast  the  grass  until  slightly  brown  and  then crush it in a
mortar. Mix  crushed  grass  with  all  other  ingredients,  in  a
skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt
butter.  Allow  it  to  cook.  When cool, roll mixture into little
balls and dip them into the sesame seeds.

If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot  is  being
grown,  here's  one  of  the  greatest recipes you can try. Pick a
medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup
of drawn butter, add salt, and eat.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-


LSD                                    courtesy of Exodus

I  think,  of  all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is
the strangest. It is the most recent major  drug  to  come  to
life  in  the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's
get to the good stuff: How to make it in your kitchen!!)

1) Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby  Hawaiian
wood rose seeds.
2) In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
3) Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4) Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry.
5)  For  two  days  allow  the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood
alcohol.
6) Filter the solution again, saving the liquid  and  labeling
it "1."
7)  Resoak  the  mush  in 110 cc.  of  wood  alcohol  for  two
days.
8) Filter and throw away the mush.
9) Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled
"1."
10)  Pour  the  liquid  into  a  cookie  tray  and allow it to
evaporate.
11) When all of  the  liquid  has  evaporated,  a  yellow  gum
remains. This should be scraped up and put into capsules.

30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip
15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip

Many  companies,  such as Northop-King have been coating their
seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds from
a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper.  Hawaiian  wood
rose seeds can be ordered directly from:

Chong's Nursery and Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii


LSD DOSAGES
-----------

The  basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid
is available and what medium of ingestion is used. Chemically,
the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or  mics.  If
you're  chemically  minded  or  making  your  own  acid,  then
computing the number of micrograms is very important.  Usually
between  500  and  800  mics  is  plenty  for  an 8 hour trip,
depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have  heard
of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only
extremely dangerous, it is extremely wasteful.

LSD  comes  packaged  in many different forms. The most common
are listed below:

1) The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried  drop
of  LSD  on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals
one trip.
2) Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost
any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid  is
cut  with,  as  a lot of acid is cut with either speed or
strychnine. Also note dosage.
3) Small white or colored  tablets  have  been  known  to
contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible
to tell potency, without asking.


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Bananas                                courtesy of Exodus

Believe  it  or  not,  bananas  do contain a small quantity of
_Musa Sapientum bananadine_, which is  a  mild,  short-lasting
psychedelic.  There  are much easier ways of getting high, but
the great advantage to this method is that bananas are legal.

1) Obtain 15 lbs. of ripe yellow bananas.
2) Peel all 15 lbs. and eat the fruit. Save the peels.
3) With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peels and
save the scraped material.
4) Put all of the scraped material in  a  large  pot  and  add
water.  Boil  for  three to four hours until it has attained a
solid paste consistency.
5) Spread this paste on cookie sheets, and dry in an over  for
about  20  minutes  to a half hour. This will result in a fine
black powder. Makes about  one  pound  of  bananadine  powder.
Ususally one will feel the effects of bananadine after smoking
three or four cigarettes.

Table of Weights

Pounds         Ounces         Grams          Kilos
1              16             453.6          0.4536
0.0625         1              28.35          0.0283
0.0352         1              0.001
2.205          35.27          1,000          1


Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Peanuts                     Orig. by the Jolly Roger


Try this sometime when you are bored!

1) Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!)

2) Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.

3) Eat the nuts.

4) Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Weird Drugs                                     by the Jolly Roger

Bananas:
1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas
2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings
3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.
4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.
5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste considtency.
6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in ofen for about 20
minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually one will
feel the effects after smoking three to four cigarettes.

Cough syrup:
mix robitussion a-c with an equal amount of ginger ale and drink. The
effect are sedation and euphoria. Never underestimate the effects of
any drug! You can od on cough syrup!

Toads:
1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best kind are
tree toads.
2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.
3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator four four to five days, or
until the skins are brittle.
4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad taste you
can mix it with a more fragrent smoking medium.

Nutmeg:
1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old grinder.
2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and pulverize with
a pestle.
3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 grams. A larger dose may
produce excessive thirst,anxiety,and rapid hart beat, but
hallucinations are rare.

Peanuts:
1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted)
2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3. Eat the nuts.
4. Grind up the skins and smoke them.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Ways to send a car to Hell            by The Jolly Roger

There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).

- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!

- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)

- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
Plastic deforms and dilutes into gas.  The final result is much
harder to inject into the engine, possibly causing valve replacement.


- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.

- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...

- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.

- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
ÚÄÄ¿       (Revised ill. 4.14)
³  ³
³  ³
³  ³
³  ³
³ ÚÙ
³ À¿
ÀÄÄÙ

Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

More Ways to Send a Car to Hell                 by The Jolly Roger

Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----Ex.

How to have phun with someone else's car.  If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time.  Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks.  The tacks make lovely designs.  If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school.  Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen.  When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time.  Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter.  A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it.  Remove the top
air filter. That's it!  Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe.  Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs.  Here's one that takes
time and many friends.  Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom.  Phun eh?  If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Electronic Terrorism                            by The Jolly Roger

It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.  Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation.  But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1:  follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.  Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2:  in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3:  plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am.  Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack.  Do not write it by hand!  An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand.  Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear.  As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5:  choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.  Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6:  sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector


Step 1:  take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit.  These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)

Step 2:  take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal.  Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.

Step 3:  take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor.  Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.

Step 4:  using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).



Your kit is now complete!

---------><---------
I    (CONTACTS)    I
I                  I
I                  -  (BATTERY)
I                 ---
I                  I
I      (COIL)      I
------///////-------
/-----------
/           I
/            I
/             I
(SWITCH) I        I
I        I
I       --- (BATTERY)
I        -  ( PACK  )
I       ---
I        I
I        I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)

---------RFLAGG---------




-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----

AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK II.....
Courtesy of Exodus

This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:

1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.

Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.

1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:

Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.

Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.

Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.

Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.

Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.

Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.

Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.

Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.

There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

Nicotine                                      by the Jolly Roger

Nicotine is an abundant poison. Easily found in tobacco
products, in concentrated form a few drops can quickly kill
someone. Here is how to concentrate it:

First get a can of chewing tobacco or pipe tobacco. Remove
the contents and soak in water overnight in a jar (about 2/3 cup
of water will do...). In the morning, strain into another jar the
mixture through a porous towel. Then wrap the towel around the
ball of tobacco and squeeze it until all of the liquid is in the
jar. Throw away the tobacco--you will not need it anymore.

Now you have two options. I recommend the first. It makes the
nicotine more potent.
1) Allow to evaporate until a sticky syrup results in the
jar. This is almost pure nicotine (hell, it is pure enough for
sure!).
2) Heat over low flame until water is evaporated and a thick
sticky syrup results (I don't know how long it takes... shouldn't
take too long, though.).

Now all you have to do, when you wish to use it, is to put
a few drops in a medicine dropper or equivalent, and slip about 4
or 5 drops into the victim's coffee. Coffee is recommended since it
will disguise the taste. Since nicotine is a drug, the victim
should get quite a buzz before they turn their toes up to the
daisies, so to speak.

Note: If the syrup is too sticky, dilute it with a few drops
of water. And while you are at it, better add an extra drop to the
coffee just to be sure!

Brought to you by

-//razorbladez-

ActionScript [AS1/AS2]

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Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 1
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#initclip 8 function FSelectableItemClass() { this.init(); } FSelectableItemClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); FSelectableItemClass.prototype.init = function () { if (this._name != "itemAsset") { this.highlighted = false; this.layoutContent(100); } }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.drawItem = function (itmObj, selected) { this.displayContent(itmObj, selected); if ((this.highlighted != selected) || ((this.controller.focused != this.oldFocus) && (selected))) { this.setHighlighted(selected); } this.oldFocus = this.controller.focused; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setSize = function (width, height) { var LOWEST_DEPTH = -16384; this.width = width; this.layoutContent(width); this.attachMovie("FHighlightSymbol", "highlight_mc", LOWEST_DEPTH); this.highlight_mc._x = 0.5; this.highlight_mc._width = width - 0.5; this.highlight_mc._height = height; this.highlight_mc.controller = this; this.highlight_mc._alpha = 0; this.highlight_mc.trackAsMenu = true; this.highlight_mc.onPress = function () { if (this.controller.enable) { this.controller.controller.clickHandler(this.controller.itemNum); } }; this.highlight_mc.onDragOver = function () { if (this.controller.controller.focused) { this.onPress(); } }; this.highlight_mc.useHandCursor = false; this.highlight_mc.trackAsMenu = true; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.enable = enabledFlag; this.fLabel_mc.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.highlight_mc.gotoAndStop((enabledFlag ? "unfocused" : "disabled")); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.layoutContent = function (width) { this.attachMovie("FLabelSymbol", "fLabel_mc", 2, {hostComponent:this.controller}); this.fLabel_mc._x = 2; this.fLabel_mc._y = 0; this.fLabel_mc.setSize(width - 2); this.fLabel_mc.labelField.selectable = false; }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.displayContent = function (itmObj, selected) { var tmpLabel = ""; if (itmObj.label != undefined) { tmpLabel = itmObj.label; } else if (typeof(itmObj) == "object") { for (var i in itmObj) { if (i != "__ID__") { tmpLabel = (itmObj[i] + ", ") + tmpLabel; } } tmpLabel = tmpLabel.substring(0, tmpLabel.length - 2); } else { tmpLabel = itmObj; } if (this.fLabel_mc.labelField.text != tmpLabel) { this.fLabel_mc.setLabel(tmpLabel); } var clr = (selected ? (this.controller.styleTable.textSelected.value) : (this.controller.styleTable.textColor.value)); if (clr == undefined) { clr = (selected ? 16777215 : 0); } this.fLabel_mc.setColor(clr); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getItemIndex = function () { return(this.controller.getScrollPosition() + this.itemNum); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getItemModel = function () { return(this.controller.getItemAt(this.getItemIndex())); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.getHostDataProvider = function () { return(this.controller.dataProvider); }; FSelectableItemClass.prototype.setHighlighted = function (flag) { fade = this.controller.styleTable.fadeRate.value; if (((fade == undefined) || (fade == 0)) || (!flag)) { this.highlight_mc._alpha = (flag ? 100 : 0); delete this.onEnterFrame; } else { this.fadeN = fade; this.fadeX = 1; this.highLight_mc._alpha = 20; this.onEnterFrame = function () { this.highLight_mc._alpha = (60 * Math.sqrt((this.fadeX++) / this.fadeN)) + 40; if (this.fadeX > this.fadeN) { delete this.onEnterFrame; } }; } this.highlighted = flag; }; #endinitclip
Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 4 function FSelectableListClass() { this.init(); } FSelectableListClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); FSelectableListClass.prototype.init = function () { super.init(); this.enable = true; this.selected = new Array(); this.topDisplayed = (this.numDisplayed = 0); this.lastSelected = 0; this.tabChildren = false; if (this._name != undefined) { this.dataProvider = new DataProviderClass(); this.dataProvider.addView(this); } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.addItemAt = function (index, label, data) { if ((index < 0) || (!this.enable)) { return(undefined); } this.dataProvider.addItemAt(index, {label:label, data:data}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.addItem = function (label, data) { if (!this.enable) { return(undefined); } this.dataProvider.addItem({label:label, data:data}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.removeItemAt = function (index) { this.selectHolder = this.getSelectedIndex(); var item = this.getItemAt(index); this.dataProvider.removeItemAt(index); return(item); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.removeAll = function () { this.dataProvider.removeAll(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.replaceItemAt = function (index, newLabel, newData) { this.dataProvider.replaceItemAt(index, {label:newLabel, data:newData}); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.sortItemsBy = function (fieldName, order) { this.lastSelID = this.dataProvider.getItemID(this.lastSelected); this.dataProvider.sortItemsBy(fieldName, order); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getLength = function () { return(this.dataProvider.getLength()); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getSelectedIndex = function () { for (var uniqueID in this.selected) { var tmpInd = this.selected[uniqueID].sIndex; if (tmpInd != undefined) { return(tmpInd); } } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getSelectedItem = function () { return(this.getItemAt(this.getSelectedIndex())); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getItemAt = function (index) { return(this.dataProvider.getItemAt(index)); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enable); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.getValue = function () { var item = this.getSelectedItem(); return(((item.data == undefined) ? (item.label) : (item.data))); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setSelectedIndex = function (index, flag) { if (((index >= 0) && (index < this.getLength())) && (this.enable)) { this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(index, true); this.lastSelected = index; this.invalidate("updateControl"); if (flag != false) { this.executeCallBack(); } } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setDataProvider = function (obj) { this.setScrollPosition(0); this.clearSelected(); if (obj instanceof Array) { this.dataProvider = new DataProviderClass(); var i = 0; while (i < obj.length) { var value = ((typeof(obj[i]) == "string") ? ({label:obj[i]}) : (obj[i])); this.dataProvider.addItem(value); i++; } } else { this.dataProvider = obj; } this.dataProvider.addView(this); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setItemSymbol = function (linkID) { this.tmpPos = this.getScrollPosition(); this.itemSymbol = linkID; this.invalidate("setSize"); this.setScrollPosition(this.tmpPos); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.cleanUI(); super.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.enable = enabledFlag; this.boundingBox_mc.gotoAndStop((this.enable ? "enabled" : "disabled")); var limit = Math.min(this.numDisplayed, this.getLength()); var i = 0; while (i < limit) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].setEnabled(this.enable); i++; } if (this.enable) { this.invalidate("updateControl"); } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.updateControl = function () { var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(this.topDisplayed + i), this.isSelected(this.topDisplayed + i)); i++; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { super.setSize(w, h); this.boundingBox_mc._xscale = (this.boundingBox_mc._yscale = 100); this.boundingBox_mc._xscale = (this.width * 100) / this.boundingBox_mc._width; this.boundingBox_mc._yscale = (this.height * 100) / this.boundingBox_mc._height; var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc.attachMovie(this.itemSymbol, ("fListItem" + i) + "_mc", 10 + i, {controller:this, itemNum:i}); var item_mc = this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"]; var offset = ((this.scrollOffset == undefined) ? 0 : (this.scrollOffset)); item_mc.setSize(this.width - offset, this.itmHgt); item_mc._y = (this.itmHgt - 2) * i; i++; } this.updateControl(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.modelChanged = function (eventObj) { var firstRow = eventObj.firstRow; var lastRow = eventObj.lastRow; var event = eventObj.event; if (event == "addRows") { for (var i in this.selected) { if ((this.selected[i].sIndex != undefined) && (this.selected[i].sIndex >= firstRow)) { this.selected[i].sIndex = this.selected[i].sIndex + ((lastRow - firstRow) + 1); this.setSelectedIndex(this.selected[i].sIndex, false); } } } else if (event == "deleteRows") { if (firstRow == lastRow) { var index = firstRow; if (this.selectHolder == index) { this.selectionDeleted = true; } if (((this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed) >= this.getLength()) && (this.topDisplayed > 0)) { this.topDisplayed--; if (this.selectionDeleted && ((index - 1) >= 0)) { this.setSelectedIndex(index - 1, false); } } else if (this.selectionDeleted) { var len = this.getLength(); if (((index == (len - 1)) && (len > 1)) || (index > (len / 2))) { this.setSelectedIndex(index - 1, false); } else { this.setSelectedIndex(index, false); } } for (var i in this.selected) { if (this.selected[i].sIndex > firstRow) { this.selected[i].sIndex--; } } } else { this.clearSelected(); this.topDisplayed = 0; } } else if (event == "sort") { var len = this.getLength(); var i = 0; while (i < len) { if (this.isSelected(i)) { var id = this.dataProvider.getItemID(i); if (id == this.lastSelID) { this.lastSelected = i; } this.selected[String(id)].sIndex = i; } i++; } } this.invalidate("updateControl"); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.measureItmHgt = function () { this.attachMovie(this.itemSymbol, "tmpItem_mc", 0, {controller:this}); this.tmpItem_mc.drawItem({label:"Sizer: PjtTopg"}, false); this.itmHgt = this.tmpItem_mc._height; this.tmpItem_mc.removeMovieClip(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.selectItem = function (index, selectedFlag) { if (selectedFlag && (!this.isSelected(index))) { this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))] = {sIndex:index}; } else if (!selectedFlag) { delete this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))]; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.isSelected = function (index) { return(this.selected[String(this.dataProvider.getItemID(index))].sIndex != undefined); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.clearSelected = function () { for (var uniqueID in this.selected) { var index = this.selected[uniqueID].sIndex; if (((index != undefined) && (this.topDisplayed <= index)) && (index < (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (index - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), false); } } delete this.selected; this.selected = new Array(); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.selectionHandler = function (itemNum) { var tmpInd = (this.topDisplayed + itemNum); if (this.getItemAt(tmpInd == undefined)) { this.changeFlag = false; return(undefined); } this.changeFlag = true; this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(tmpInd, true); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(tmpInd), this.isSelected(tmpInd)); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.moveSelBy = function (incr) { var itmNum = this.getSelectedIndex(); var newItm = (itmNum + incr); newItm = Math.max(0, newItm); newItm = Math.min(this.getLength() - 1, newItm); if (newItm == itmNum) { return(undefined); } if ((itmNum < this.topDisplayed) || (itmNum >= (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.setScrollPosition(itmNum); } if ((newItm >= (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed)) || (newItm < this.topDisplayed)) { this.setScrollPosition(this.topDisplayed + incr); } this.selectionHandler(newItm - this.topDisplayed); }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.clickHandler = function (itmNum) { this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); if (!this.focused) { this.pressFocus(); } this.selectionHandler(itmNum); this.onMouseUp = this.releaseHandler; }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.releaseHandler = function () { if (this.changeFlag) { this.executeCallBack(); } this.changeFlag = false; this.onMouseUp = undefined; }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { super.myOnSetFocus(); var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].highlight_mc.gotoAndStop("enabled"); i++; } }; FSelectableListClass.prototype.myOnKillFocus = function () { super.myOnKillFocus(); var i = 0; while (i < this.numDisplayed) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + i) + "_mc"].highlight_mc.gotoAndStop("unfocused"); i++; } }; #endinitclip
Instance of Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] "dPAsset" in Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1
//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }
Instance of Symbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol] "ItemAsset" in Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] Frame 1
//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }
Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 7 function FScrollSelectListClass() { this.init(); } FScrollSelectListClass.prototype = new FSelectableListClass(); FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.getScrollPosition = function () { return(this.topDisplayed); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setScrollPosition = function (pos) { if (this.enable) { pos = Math.min(pos, this.getLength() - this.numDisplayed); pos = Math.max(pos, 0); this.scrollBar_mc.setScrollPosition(pos); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setAutoHideScrollBar = function (flag) { this.permaScrollBar = !flag; this.setSize(this.width, this.height); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { super.setEnabled(enabledFlag); this.scrollBar_mc.setEnabled(this.enable); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { var pos = this.getScrollPosition(); super.setSize(w, h); if (this.scrollBar_mc != undefined) { this.removed = true; } this.scrollBar_mc = undefined; this.initScrollBar(); this.setScrollPosition(pos); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.modelChanged = function (eventObj) { super.modelChanged(eventObj); this.invalidate("initScrollBar"); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.initScrollBar = function () { if ((!this.permaScrollBar) && (this.getLength() <= this.numDisplayed)) { if (this.removed) { this.scrollBar_mc.removeMovieClip(); this.scrollBar_mc = undefined; this.scrollOffset = undefined; this.invalidate("setSize"); } } else { if (this.scrollBar_mc == undefined) { this.container_mc.attachMovie("FScrollBarSymbol", "scrollBar_mc", 3000, {hostStyle:this.styleTable}); this.scrollBar_mc = this.container_mc.scrollBar_mc; this.scrollBar_mc.setChangeHandler("scrollHandler", this); this.scrollBar_mc.setSize(this.height); this.scrollBar_mc._x = this.width - this.scrollBar_mc._width; this.scrollBar_mc._y = 0; this.scrollBar_mc.setLargeScroll(this.numDisplayed - 1); this.scrollOffset = this.scrollBar_mc._width; this.invalidate("setSize"); } this.scrollBar_mc.setScrollProperties(this.numDisplayed, 0, this.getLength() - this.numDisplayed); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.scrollHandler = function (scrollBar) { var pos = scrollBar.getScrollPosition(); this.topDisplayed = pos; if (this.lastPosition != pos) { this.updateControl(); } this.lastPosition = pos; }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.clickHandler = function (itmNum) { super.clickHandler(itmNum); if ((this.dragScrolling == undefined) && (this.scrollBar_mc != undefined)) { this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", 15); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.releaseHandler = function () { clearInterval(this.dragScrolling); this.dragScrolling = undefined; super.releaseHandler(); }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.dragScroll = function () { clearInterval(this.dragScrolling); if (this.container_mc._ymouse < 0) { this.setScrollPosition(this.getScrollPosition() - 1); this.selectionHandler(0); this.scrollInterval = Math.max(25, (-23.8 * (-this.container_mc._ymouse)) + 500); this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", this.scrollInterval); } else if (this.container_mc._ymouse > ((this.itmHgt - 2) * this.numDisplayed)) { this.setScrollPosition(this.getScrollPosition() + 1); this.selectionHandler(this.numDisplayed - 1); this.scrollInterval = Math.max(25, (-23.8 * Math.abs((this.container_mc._ymouse - ((this.itmHgt - 2) * this.numDisplayed)) - 2)) + 500); this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", this.scrollInterval); } else { this.dragScrolling = setInterval(this, "dragScroll", 15); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.myOnKeyDown = function () { if (this.focused) { this.keyCodes = new Array(40, 38, 34, 33, 36, 35); this.keyIncrs = new Array(1, -1, this.numDisplayed - 1, -(this.numDisplayed - 1), -this.getLength(), this.getLength()); var i = 0; while (i < this.keyCodes.length) { if (Key.isDown(this.keyCodes[i])) { this.moveSelBy(this.keyIncrs[i]); return(undefined); } i++; } this.findInputText(); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.findInputText = function () { var tmpCode = Key.getAscii(); if ((tmpCode >= 33) && (tmpCode <= 126)) { this.findString(String.fromCharCode(tmpCode)); } }; FScrollSelectListClass.prototype.findString = function (str) { if (this.getLength() == 0) { return(undefined); } var itemNum = this.getSelectedIndex(); var jump = 0; var i = (itemNum + 1); while (i != itemNum) { var itmStr = this.getItemAt(i).label.substring(0, str.length); if ((str == itmStr) || (str.toUpperCase() == itmStr.toUpperCase())) { var jump = (i - itemNum); break; } if (i >= (this.getLength() - 1)) { i = -1; } i++; } if (jump != 0) { this.moveSelBy(jump); } }; #endinitclip
Instance of Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol] "scrollBarAsset" in Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1
//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { _targetInstanceName = ""; horizontal = false; } onClipEvent (load) { this._width = (this._height = 1); }
Instance of Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol] "superClassAsset" in Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] Frame 1
//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }
Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 1
var component = _parent; component.registerSkinElement(boundingBox, "background"); stop();
Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 2
component.registerSkinElement(boundingBox2, "backgroundDisabled"); stop();
Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 9 function FListBoxClass() { this.itemSymbol = "FListItemSymbol"; this.init(); this.permaScrollBar = true; var i = 0; while (i < this.labels.length) { this.addItem(this.labels[i], this.data[i]); i++; } this.boundingBox_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.width = this._width; this.height = this._height; this._yscale = (this._xscale = 100); this.setSize(this.width, this.height); if (this.changeHandler.length > 0) { this.setChangeHandler(this.changeHandler); } } FListBoxClass.prototype = new FScrollSelectListClass(); Object.registerClass("FListBoxSymbol", FListBoxClass); FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectedIndices = function () { var tmpArray = new Array(); for (var i in this.selected) { tmpArray.push(this.selected[i].sIndex); } return(((tmpArray.length > 0) ? (tmpArray) : undefined)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectedItems = function () { var indices = this.getSelectedIndices(); var tmpArray = new Array(); var i = 0; while (i < indices.length) { tmpArray.push(this.getItemAt(indices[i])); i++; } return(((tmpArray.length > 0) ? (tmpArray) : undefined)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getSelectMultiple = function () { return(this.selectMultiple); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.getRowCount = function () { return(this.numDisplayed); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSelectedIndices = function (indexArray) { this.clearSelected(); var i = 0; while (i < indexArray.length) { this.selectItem(indexArray[i], true); i++; } this.updateControl(); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSelectMultiple = function (flag) { this.selectMultiple = flag; }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setRowCount = function (count) { var hgt = ((count * (this.itmHgt - 2)) + 2); this.setSize(this.width, hgt); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setWidth = function (wdt) { this.setSize(wdt, this.height); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { if (!this.enable) { return(undefined); } w = Math.max(w, 20); h = Math.max(h, 40); this.container_mc.removeMovieClip(); this.container_mc = this.createEmptyMovieClip("container", 3); this.measureItmHgt(); this.numDisplayed = Math.floor(h / (this.itmHgt - 2)); this.height = (this.numDisplayed * (this.itmHgt - 2)) + 2; super.setSize(w, this.height); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.removeItemAt = function (index) { this.selectHolder = this.getSelectedIndices(); return(super.removeItemAt(index)); }; FListBoxClass.prototype.selectionHandler = function (itemNum) { if (this.clickFilter) { var index = (this.topDisplayed + itemNum); if (this.getItemAt(index) == undefined) { this.changeFlag = false; return(undefined); } this.changeFlag = true; if (((!this.selectMultiple) && (!Key.isDown(17))) || ((!Key.isDown(16)) && (!Key.isDown(17)))) { this.clearSelected(); this.selectItem(index, true); this.lastSelected = index; this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), this.isSelected(index)); } else if (Key.isDown(16) && (this.selectMultiple)) { if (this.lastSelected == -1) { this.lastSelected = index; } var incr = ((this.lastSelected < index) ? 1 : -1); this.clearSelected(); var i = this.lastSelected; while (i != index) { this.selectItem(i, true); if ((i >= this.topDisplayed) && (i < (this.topDisplayed + this.numDisplayed))) { this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (i - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(i), this.isSelected(i)); } i = i + incr; } this.selectItem(index, true); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + (index - this.topDisplayed)) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(index), this.isSelected(index)); } else if (key.isDown(17)) { var selectedFlag = this.isSelected(index); if (!this.selectMultiple) { this.clearSelected(); } if (!((!this.selectMultiple) && (selectedFlag))) { this.selectItem(index, !selectedFlag); this.container_mc[("fListItem" + itemNum) + "_mc"].drawItem(this.getItemAt(this.topDisplayed + itemNum), this.isSelected(this.topDisplayed + itemNum)); } this.lastSelected = index; } } else { this.clickFilter = true; } }; FListBoxClass.prototype.moveSelBy = function (itemNum) { super.moveSelBy(itemNum); this.releaseHandler(); }; #endinitclip this.deadPreview._visible = false;
Instance of Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol] "superClassAsset" in Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol] Frame 1
//component parameters onClipEvent (initialize) { }
Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 2 _global.FLabelClass = function () { if (this.hostComponent == undefined) { this.hostComponent = ((this._parent.controller == undefined) ? (this._parent) : (this._parent.controller)); } if (this.customTextStyle == undefined) { if (this.hostComponent.textStyle == undefined) { this.hostComponent.textStyle = new TextFormat(); } this.textStyle = this.hostComponent.textStyle; this.enable = true; } }; FLabelClass.prototype = new MovieClip(); Object.registerClass("FLabelSymbol", FLabelClass); FLabelClass.prototype.setLabel = function (label) { var val = this.hostComponent.styleTable.embedFonts.value; if (val != undefined) { this.labelField.embedFonts = val; } this.labelField.setNewTextFormat(this.textStyle); this.labelField.text = label; this.labelField._height = this.labelField.textHeight + 2; }; FLabelClass.prototype.setSize = function (width) { this.labelField._width = width; }; FLabelClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enable) { this.enable = enable; var tmpColor = this.hostComponent.styleTable[(enable ? "textColor" : "textDisabled")].value; if (tmpColor == undefined) { tmpColor = (enable ? 0 : 8947848); } this.setColor(tmpColor); }; FLabelClass.prototype.getLabel = function () { return(this.labelField.text); }; FLabelClass.prototype.setColor = function (col) { this.labelField.textColor = col; }; #endinitclip
Symbol 31 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");
Symbol 37 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");
Symbol 43 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "highlight3D");
Symbol 49 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(frame5, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(frame3, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame1, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(frame4, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(frame2, "highlight3D");
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 1
stop();
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 2
stop();
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 3
stop();
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 4
stop();
Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 6 function FPushButtonClass() { this.init(); } FPushButtonClass.prototype = new FUIComponentClass(); Object.registerClass("FPushButtonSymbol", FPushButtonClass); FPushButtonClass.prototype.init = function () { super.setSize(this._width, this._height); this.boundingBox_mc.unloadMovie(); this.attachMovie("fpb_states", "fpbState_mc", 1); this.attachMovie("FLabelSymbol", "fLabel_mc", 2); this.attachMovie("fpb_hitArea", "fpb_hitArea_mc", 3); super.init(); this.btnState = false; this.setClickHandler(this.clickHandler); this._xscale = 100; this._yscale = 100; this.setSize(this.width, this.height); if (this.label != undefined) { this.setLabel(this.label); } this.ROLE_SYSTEM_PUSHBUTTON = 43; this.STATE_SYSTEM_PRESSED = 8; this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE = 32778; this.EVENT_OBJECT_NAMECHANGE = 32780; this._accImpl.master = this; this._accImpl.stub = false; this._accImpl.get_accRole = this.get_accRole; this._accImpl.get_accName = this.get_accName; this._accImpl.get_accState = this.get_accState; this._accImpl.get_accDefaultAction = this.get_accDefaultAction; this._accImpl.accDoDefaultAction = this.accDoDefaultAction; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setHitArea = function (w, h) { var hit = this.fpb_hitArea_mc; this.hitArea = hit; hit._visible = false; hit._width = w; hit._height = ((arguments.length > 1) ? (h) : (hit._height)); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { w = ((w < 6) ? 6 : (w)); if (arguments.length > 1) { if (h < 6) { h = 6; } } super.setSize(w, h); this.setLabel(this.getLabel()); this.arrangeLabel(); this.setHitArea(w, h); this.boundingBox_mc._width = w; this.boundingBox_mc._height = h; this.drawFrame(); if (this.focused) { super.myOnSetFocus(); } this.initContentPos("fLabel_mc"); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.arrangeLabel = function () { var label = this.fLabel_mc; var h = this.height; var w = (this.width - 2); var b = 1; this.fLabel_mc.setSize(w - (b * 4)); label._x = b * 3; label._y = (h / 2) - (label._height / 2); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getLabel = function () { return(this.fLabel_mc.labelField.text); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setLabel = function (label) { this.fLabel_mc.setLabel(label); this.txtFormat(); this.arrangeLabel(); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_NAMECHANGE); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enabled); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enable) { if (enable || (enable == undefined)) { this.gotoFrame(1); this.drawFrame(); this.flabel_mc.setEnabled(true); this.enabled = true; super.setEnabled(true); } else { this.gotoFrame(4); this.drawFrame(); this.flabel_mc.setEnabled(false); this.enabled = false; super.setEnabled(false); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.txtFormat = function () { var txtS = this.textStyle; var sTbl = this.styleTable; txtS.align = ((sTbl.textAlign.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.align = "center")) : undefined); txtS.leftMargin = ((sTbl.textLeftMargin.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.leftMargin = 1)) : undefined); txtS.rightMargin = ((sTbl.textRightMargin.value == undefined) ? ((txtS.rightMargin = 1)) : undefined); if (this.fLabel_mc._height > this.height) { super.setSize(this.width, this.fLabel_mc._height); } else { super.setSize(this.width, this.height); } this.fLabel_mc.labelField.setTextFormat(this.textStyle); this.setEnabled(this.enable); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.drawFrame = function () { var b = 1; var x1 = 0; var y1 = 0; var x2 = this.width; var y2 = this.height; var mc_array = ["up_mc", "over_mc", "down_mc", "disabled_mc"]; var frame = mc_array[this.fpbState_mc._currentframe - 1]; var mc = "frame"; var i = 0; while (i < 6) { x1 = x1 + ((i % 2) * b); y1 = y1 + ((i % 2) * b); x2 = x2 - (((i + 1) % 2) * b); y2 = y2 - (((i + 1) % 2) * b); var w = (Math.abs(x1 - x2) + (2 * b)); var h = (Math.abs(y1 - y2) + (2 * b)); this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._width = w; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._height = h; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._x = x1 - b; this.fpbState_mc[frame][mc + i]._y = y1 - b; i++; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setClickHandler = function (chng, obj) { this.handlerObj = ((arguments.length < 2) ? (this._parent) : (obj)); this.clickHandler = chng; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.executeCallBack = function () { this.handlerObj[this.clickHandler](this); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.initContentPos = function (mc) { this.incrVal = 1; this.initx = this[mc]._x - (this.getBtnState() * this.incrVal); this.inity = this[mc]._y - (this.getBtnState() * this.incrVal); this.togx = this.initx + this.incrVal; this.togy = this.inity + this.incrVal; }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.setBtnState = function (state) { this.btnState = state; if (state) { this.fLabel_mc._x = this.togx; this.fLabel_mc._y = this.togy; } else { this.fLabel_mc._x = this.initx; this.fLabel_mc._y = this.inity; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.getBtnState = function () { return(this.btnState); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { this.focused = true; super.myOnSetFocus(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onPress = function () { this.pressFocus(); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.drawFrame(); this.setBtnState(true); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE, true); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRelease = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.drawFrame(); this.executeCallBack(); this.setBtnState(false); if (Accessibility.isActive()) { Accessibility.sendEvent(this, 0, this.EVENT_OBJECT_STATECHANGE, true); } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRollOver = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(2); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onRollOut = function () { this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onReleaseOutside = function () { this.setBtnState(false); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onDragOut = function () { this.setBtnState(false); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(1); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.onDragOver = function () { this.setBtnState(true); this.fpbState_mc.gotoAndStop(3); this.drawFrame(); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnKeyDown = function () { if ((Key.getCode() == 32) && (this.pressOnce == undefined)) { this.onPress(); this.pressOnce = 1; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.myOnKeyUp = function () { if (Key.getCode() == 32) { this.onRelease(); this.pressOnce = undefined; } }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accRole = function (childId) { return(this.master.ROLE_SYSTEM_PUSHBUTTON); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accName = function (childId) { return(this.master.getLabel()); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accState = function (childId) { if (this.pressOnce) { return(this.master.STATE_SYSTEM_PRESSED); } return(this.master.STATE_SYSTEM_DEFAULT); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.get_accDefaultAction = function (childId) { return("Press"); }; FPushButtonClass.prototype.accDoDefaultAction = function (childId) { this.master.onPress(); this.master.onRelease(); }; #endinitclip boundingBox_mc._visible = false; deadPreview._visible = false;
Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol] Frame 1
#initclip 3 function FUIComponentClass() { this.init(); } FUIComponentClass.prototype = new MovieClip(); FUIComponentClass.prototype.init = function () { this.enable = true; this.focused = false; this.useHandCursor = false; this._accImpl = new Object(); this._accImpl.stub = true; this.styleTable = new Array(); if (_global.globalStyleFormat == undefined) { _global.globalStyleFormat = new FStyleFormat(); globalStyleFormat.isGlobal = true; _global._focusControl = new Object(); _global._focusControl.onSetFocus = function (oldFocus, newFocus) { oldFocus.myOnKillFocus(); newFocus.myOnSetFocus(); }; Selection.addListener(_global._focusControl); } if (this._name != undefined) { this._focusrect = false; this.tabEnabled = true; this.focusEnabled = true; this.tabChildren = false; this.tabFocused = true; if (this.hostStyle == undefined) { globalStyleFormat.addListener(this); } else { this.styleTable = this.hostStyle; } this.deadPreview._visible = false; this.deadPreview._width = (this.deadPreview._height = 1); this.methodTable = new Object(); this.keyListener = new Object(); this.keyListener.controller = this; this.keyListener.onKeyDown = function () { this.controller.myOnKeyDown(); }; this.keyListener.onKeyUp = function () { this.controller.myOnKeyUp(); }; for (var i in this.styleFormat_prm) { this.setStyleProperty(i, this.styleFormat_prm[i]); } } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setEnabled = function (enabledFlag) { this.enable = ((arguments.length > 0) ? (enabledFlag) : true); this.tabEnabled = (this.focusEnabled = enabledFlag); if ((!this.enable) && (this.focused)) { Selection.setFocus(undefined); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.getEnabled = function () { return(this.enable); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setSize = function (w, h) { this.width = w; this.height = h; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setChangeHandler = function (chng, obj) { this.handlerObj = ((obj == undefined) ? (this._parent) : (obj)); this.changeHandler = chng; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.invalidate = function (methodName) { this.methodTable[methodName] = true; this.onEnterFrame = this.cleanUI; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.cleanUI = function () { if (this.methodTable.setSize) { this.setSize(this.width, this.height); } else { this.cleanUINotSize(); } this.methodTable = new Object(); delete this.onEnterFrame; }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.cleanUINotSize = function () { for (var funct in this.methodTable) { this[funct](); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.drawRect = function (x, y, w, h) { var inner = this.styleTable.focusRectInner.value; var outer = this.styleTable.focusRectOuter.value; if (inner == undefined) { inner = 16777215 /* 0xFFFFFF */; } if (outer == undefined) { outer = 0; } this.createEmptyMovieClip("focusRect", 1000); this.focusRect.controller = this; this.focusRect.lineStyle(1, outer); this.focusRect.moveTo(x, y); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + w, y); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + w, y + h); this.focusRect.lineTo(x, y + h); this.focusRect.lineTo(x, y); this.focusRect.lineStyle(1, inner); this.focusRect.moveTo(x + 1, y + 1); this.focusRect.lineTo((x + w) - 1, y + 1); this.focusRect.lineTo((x + w) - 1, (y + h) - 1); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + 1, (y + h) - 1); this.focusRect.lineTo(x + 1, y + 1); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.pressFocus = function () { this.tabFocused = false; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); Selection.setFocus(this); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.drawFocusRect = function () { this.drawRect(-2, -2, this.width + 4, this.height + 4); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.myOnSetFocus = function () { this.focused = true; Key.addListener(this.keyListener); if (this.tabFocused) { this.drawFocusRect(); } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.myOnKillFocus = function () { this.tabFocused = true; this.focused = false; this.focusRect.removeMovieClip(); Key.removeListener(this.keyListener); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.executeCallBack = function () { this.handlerObj[this.changeHandler](this); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.updateStyleProperty = function (styleFormat, propName) { this.setStyleProperty(propName, styleFormat[propName], styleFormat.isGlobal); }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.setStyleProperty = function (propName, value, isGlobal) { if (value == "") { return(undefined); } var tmpValue = parseInt(value); if (!isNaN(tmpValue)) { value = tmpValue; } var global = ((arguments.length > 2) ? (isGlobal) : false); if (this.styleTable[propName] == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName] = new Object(); this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = true; } if (this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal || (!global)) { this.styleTable[propName].value = value; if (this.setCustomStyleProperty(propName, value)) { } else if (propName == "embedFonts") { this.invalidate("setSize"); } else if (propName.subString(0, 4) == "text") { if (this.textStyle == undefined) { this.textStyle = new TextFormat(); } var textProp = propName.subString(4, propName.length); this.textStyle[textProp] = value; this.invalidate("setSize"); } else { for (var j in this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs) { var myColor = new Color(this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs[j]); if (this.styleTable[propName].value == undefined) { var myTObj = {ra:"100", rb:"0", ga:"100", gb:"0", ba:"100", bb:"0", aa:"100", ab:"0"}; myColor.setTransform(myTObj); } else { myColor.setRGB(value); } } } this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = global; } }; FUIComponentClass.prototype.registerSkinElement = function (skinMCRef, propName) { if (this.styleTable[propName] == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName] = new Object(); this.styleTable[propName].useGlobal = true; } if (this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs == undefined) { this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs = new Object(); } this.styleTable[propName].coloredMCs[skinMCRef] = skinMCRef; if (this.styleTable[propName].value != undefined) { var myColor = new Color(skinMCRef); myColor.setRGB(this.styleTable[propName].value); } }; _global.FStyleFormat = function () { this.nonStyles = {listeners:true, isGlobal:true, isAStyle:true, addListener:true, removeListener:true, nonStyles:true, applyChanges:true}; this.listeners = new Object(); this.isGlobal = false; if (arguments.length > 0) { for (var i in arguments[0]) { this[i] = arguments[0][i]; } } }; _global.FStyleFormat.prototype = new Object(); FStyleFormat.prototype.addListener = function () { var arg = 0; while (arg < arguments.length) { var mcRef = arguments[arg]; this.listeners[arguments[arg]] = mcRef; for (var i in this) { if (this.isAStyle(i)) { mcRef.updateStyleProperty(this, i.toString()); } } arg++; } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.removeListener = function (component) { this.listeners[component] = undefined; for (var prop in this) { if (this.isAStyle(prop)) { if (component.styleTable[prop].useGlobal == this.isGlobal) { component.styleTable[prop].useGlobal = true; var value = (this.isGlobal ? undefined : (globalStyleFormat[prop])); component.setStyleProperty(prop, value, true); } } } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.applyChanges = function () { var count = 0; for (var i in this.listeners) { var component = this.listeners[i]; if (arguments.length > 0) { var j = 0; while (j < arguments.length) { if (this.isAStyle(arguments[j])) { component.updateStyleProperty(this, arguments[j]); } j++; } } else { for (var j in this) { if (this.isAStyle(j)) { component.updateStyleProperty(this, j.toString()); } } } } }; FStyleFormat.prototype.isAStyle = function (name) { return((this.nonStyles[name] ? false : true)); }; #endinitclip
Symbol 68 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 78 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 87 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "foregroundDisabled"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 1
stop();
Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 2
stop();
Symbol 88 MovieClip [UpArrow] Frame 3
stop();
Symbol 94 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 101 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 106 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight");
Symbol 107 MovieClip [ScrollThumb] Frame 1
stop();
Symbol 115 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 123 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "arrow"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 131 MovieClip Frame 1
var component = _parent._parent; component.registerSkinElement(arrow_mc, "foregroundDisabled"); component.registerSkinElement(face_mc, "face"); component.registerSkinElement(shadow_mc, "shadow"); component.registerSkinElement(darkshadow_mc, "darkshadow"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight_mc, "highlight"); component.registerSkinElement(highlight3D_mc, "highlight3D");
Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 1
stop();
Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 2
stop();
Symbol 132 MovieClip [DownArrow] Frame 3
stop();
Symbol 236 MovieClip Frame 55
stop();
Symbol 241 Button
on (release) { getURL ("http://www.newgrounds.com"); }
Symbol 246 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }
Symbol 250 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (1); }
Symbol 253 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (8); }
Symbol 254 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (16); }
Symbol 255 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (15); }
Symbol 256 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (14); }
Symbol 257 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (13); }
Symbol 258 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (12); }
Symbol 259 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (11); }
Symbol 260 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (10); }
Symbol 261 Button
on (release) { gotoAndPlay (9); }
Symbol 262 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (7); }
Symbol 263 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (6); }
Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 1
_root.stop(); PercentLoaded = (_root.getBytesLoaded() / _root.getBytesTotal()) * 100; if (PercentLoaded != 100) { setProperty(bar, _xscale , PercentLoaded); } else { gotoAndStop (3); }
Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 2
gotoAndPlay (1);
Symbol 269 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }
Symbol 270 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (17); }
Symbol 271 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (18); }
Symbol 272 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (19); }
Symbol 273 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (20); }
Symbol 274 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (21); }
Symbol 275 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (22); }
Symbol 276 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (23); }
Symbol 277 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (24); }
Symbol 278 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (25); }
Symbol 279 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (26); }
Symbol 282 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (1); }
Symbol 285 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }
Symbol 286 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (42); }
Symbol 287 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (41); }
Symbol 288 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (40); }
Symbol 289 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (39); }
Symbol 290 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (38); }
Symbol 291 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (37); }
Symbol 292 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (36); }
Symbol 293 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (35); }
Symbol 294 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (34); }
Symbol 295 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (33); } on (release) { gotoAndStop (33); }
Symbol 296 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (32); }
Symbol 297 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (31); }
Symbol 298 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (30); }
Symbol 299 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (29); }
Symbol 300 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (28); }
Symbol 301 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (27); }
Symbol 302 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (43); }
Symbol 303 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (44); }
Symbol 304 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (46); }
Symbol 305 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (47); }
Symbol 306 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (48); }
Symbol 307 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (49); }
Symbol 308 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (45); }
Symbol 309 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }
Symbol 311 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (5); }
Symbol 312 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (55); }
Symbol 313 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (54); }
Symbol 314 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (53); }
Symbol 315 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (52); }
Symbol 316 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (51); }
Symbol 317 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (50); }
Symbol 318 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }
Symbol 320 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (57); }
Symbol 321 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (58); }
Symbol 322 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (59); }
Symbol 323 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (56); }
Symbol 324 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (60); }
Symbol 325 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }
Symbol 337 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (2); }
Symbol 348 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (3); }
Symbol 372 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (4); }
Symbol 379 Button
on (release) { gotoAndStop (5); }

Library Items

Symbol 1 GraphicUsed by:2 25 26 32 33 38 39 40 41 44 45
Symbol 2 MovieClipUses:1Used by:3
Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol]Uses:2
Symbol 4 MovieClip [FListItemSymbol]Used by:19
Symbol 5 GraphicUsed by:6 27 28 34 35 46 47
Symbol 6 MovieClipUses:5Used by:7
Symbol 7 MovieClipUses:6Used by:8
Symbol 8 MovieClip [FScrollBarSymbol]Uses:7Used by:12  Timeline
Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol]Used by:11
Symbol 10 MovieClip [FSelectableItemSymbol]Used by:11
Symbol 11 MovieClip [FSelectableListSymbol]Uses:9 10Used by:12
Symbol 12 MovieClip [FScrollSelectListSymbol]Uses:8 11Used by:19
Symbol 13 GraphicUsed by:14 264
Symbol 14 MovieClipUses:13Used by:16
Symbol 15 GraphicUsed by:16
Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol]Uses:14 15Used by:19 55
Symbol 17 GraphicUsed by:18
Symbol 18 MovieClipUses:17Used by:19
Symbol 19 MovieClip [FListBoxSymbol]Uses:4 12 16 18
Symbol 20 GraphicUsed by:21 91 95 96 105
Symbol 21 MovieClip [fpb_hitArea]Uses:20
Symbol 22 FontUsed by:23
Symbol 23 EditableTextUses:22Used by:24
Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol]Uses:23
Symbol 25 MovieClipUses:1Used by:31
Symbol 26 MovieClipUses:1Used by:31
Symbol 27 MovieClipUses:5Used by:31
Symbol 28 MovieClipUses:5Used by:31
Symbol 29 GraphicUsed by:30 36 42 48 57 75 92 93 99 100 102 108 120
Symbol 30 MovieClipUses:29Used by:31
Symbol 31 MovieClipUses:25 26 27 28 30Used by:50
Symbol 32 MovieClipUses:1Used by:37
Symbol 33 MovieClipUses:1Used by:37
Symbol 34 MovieClipUses:5Used by:37
Symbol 35 MovieClipUses:5Used by:37
Symbol 36 MovieClipUses:29Used by:37
Symbol 37 MovieClipUses:32 33 34 35 36Used by:50
Symbol 38 MovieClipUses:1Used by:43
Symbol 39 MovieClipUses:1Used by:43
Symbol 40 MovieClipUses:1Used by:43
Symbol 41 MovieClipUses:1Used by:43
Symbol 42 MovieClipUses:29Used by:43
Symbol 43 MovieClipUses:38 39 40 41 42Used by:50
Symbol 44 MovieClipUses:1Used by:49
Symbol 45 MovieClipUses:1Used by:49
Symbol 46 MovieClipUses:5Used by:49
Symbol 47 MovieClipUses:5Used by:49
Symbol 48 MovieClipUses:29Used by:49
Symbol 49 MovieClipUses:44 45 46 47 48Used by:50
Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states]Uses:31 37 43 49
Symbol 51 GraphicUsed by:52
Symbol 52 MovieClipUses:51Used by:55
Symbol 53 FontUsed by:54 237 238 243 248 268 281 283 284 310 319 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 363 364 365 366 367 368 369 370 371 373 374 375 376 377 378 380 381 382 383 384
Symbol 54 TextUses:53Used by:55
Symbol 55 MovieClip [FPushButtonSymbol]Uses:16 52 54
Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol]
Symbol 57 MovieClipUses:29Used by:68
Symbol 58 GraphicUsed by:59
Symbol 59 MovieClipUses:58Used by:68
Symbol 60 GraphicUsed by:61 81 111 126
Symbol 61 MovieClipUses:60Used by:68
Symbol 62 GraphicUsed by:63 82 112 127
Symbol 63 MovieClipUses:62Used by:68
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Special Tags

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ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 4 as "FListItemSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 9 as "DataProviderSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 10 as "FSelectableItemSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 11 as "FSelectableListSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 12 as "FScrollSelectListSymbol"
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ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 24 as "FLabelSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 50 as "fpb_states"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 16 as "FBoundingBoxSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 55 as "FPushButtonSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 56 as "FUIComponentSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 88 as "UpArrow"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 107 as "ScrollThumb"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 132 as "DownArrow"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 1Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 2Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 3Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 4Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 5Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 6Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 7Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 8Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 9Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 10Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 11Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 12Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 13Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 14Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 15Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 16Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 17Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 18Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 19Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 20Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 21Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 22Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 23Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 24Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 25Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 26Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 27Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 28Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 29Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 30Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 31Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 32Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 33Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 34Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 35Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 36Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 37Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 38Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 39Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 40Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 41Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 42Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 43Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 44Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 45Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 46Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 47Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 48Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 49Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 50Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 51Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 52Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 53Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 54Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 55Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 56Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 57Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 58Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 59Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"
ExportAssets (56)Timeline Frame 60Symbol 8 as "FScrollBarSymbol"

Labels

"enabled"Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 1
"disabled"Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 2
"unfocused"Symbol 3 MovieClip [FHighlightSymbol] Frame 3
"Symbol_354"Symbol 9 MovieClip [DataProviderSymbol] Frame 1
"enabled"Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 1
"disabled"Symbol 16 MovieClip [FBoundingBoxSymbol] Frame 2
#"Symbol_10"Symbol 21 MovieClip [fpb_hitArea] Frame 1
"Symbol_32"Symbol 24 MovieClip [FLabelSymbol] Frame 1
"up"Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 1
"over"Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 2
"down"Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 3
"disabled"Symbol 50 MovieClip [fpb_states] Frame 4
"Symbol_36"Symbol 56 MovieClip [FUIComponentSymbol] Frame 1
"loaded"Symbol 266 MovieClip Frame 3




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Created: 15/4 -2019 14:18:41 Last modified: 15/4 -2019 14:18:41 Server time: 23/12 -2024 01:02:41